Good deal! Well looks like we'll be going this route then once tax refund time comes around. I will install two more vents then call it a day. If the fan can cool the house anything like it does the garage area then our power bills should be significantly lower come summer time!
Attic Ventilation
- Thread starter Rtstrider
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
Let me ask this. Would it be feasible to expect the gable fan to use the other gables for intake air then if the soffits are clogged up?
Yes, but this defeats the purpose of pulling heat out of your attic space if all it's doing is pulling outside air across the highest point in your attic space. (not addressing the convention process talked about over and over in this thread)
Pulling air across your gable vents won't pull much heat from everywhere else. It will grab some, but not much.
Let me ask this. Would it be feasible to expect the gable fan to use the other gables for intake air then if the soffits are clogged up?
Yes, but this defeats the purpose of pulling heat out of your attic space if all it's doing is pulling outside air across the highest point in your attic space. (not addressing the convention process talked about over and over in this thread)
Pulling air across your gable vents won't pull much heat from everywhere else. It will grab some, but not much.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rtstrider
Hey DB should've asked how'd it end up working out? Did it make a noticeable difference in comfort and the summer power bill?
That would be hard to say. In 98 I still had the botched up installation of the plenum and ductwork that the builder's subcontractor put in. the only measure of "success" for me was the reduced temperature in the attic. A lot of what I have read in this thread makes me wonder.
Hey DB should've asked how'd it end up working out? Did it make a noticeable difference in comfort and the summer power bill?
That would be hard to say. In 98 I still had the botched up installation of the plenum and ductwork that the builder's subcontractor put in. the only measure of "success" for me was the reduced temperature in the attic. A lot of what I have read in this thread makes me wonder.
Well I've explored that option also and we have a TON of insulation in there. I would be comfortable saying we have about 3 feet, of insulation, across the attic so we're covered there. It's just with the setup the attic is not able to exhaust the heat from 80% of the house. when I first moved in I noticed there was not a ridge vent and the entire gable area was almost completely closed off. They used plywood for stored and nailed it onto the trusses so very little air could get through. I spoke with the home inspector about it and they said it would make a huge difference if I cut the plywood out and it did help move air across the attic much better. However the area of the house where our bedrooms are is constantly hot and there is not anywhere for the air to exhaust so my theory was if I added a gable vent at that gable it should help exhaust air from that area. I do think when all is said and done we will go with a radiant barrier, it's just a matter of funds and talking the wifey into it. Right now I have to take baby steps and make small changes as I can
I too have a lot of insulation, about 2' of blown in paper. I would still like a radiant barrier over the top.
Not pertaining to the attic but my water heater.
I've had the typical 1" thick fiberglass blanket on my gas water heater for years. I had some foil/bubble wrap insulation laying around and doing nothing.
So one day I had the fiberglass off to trouble shoot a leak and decided to put the bubble wrap on first then the fiberglass when I was done.
It mad a tremendous improvement. I would say it was a least twice as effective as the fiberglass. The stand by time between cycles was reduced to just a couple times a day. My water heater is in the garage and during the winter the air gets down into the 40F.
Not pertaining to the attic but my water heater.
I've had the typical 1" thick fiberglass blanket on my gas water heater for years. I had some foil/bubble wrap insulation laying around and doing nothing.
So one day I had the fiberglass off to trouble shoot a leak and decided to put the bubble wrap on first then the fiberglass when I was done.
It mad a tremendous improvement. I would say it was a least twice as effective as the fiberglass. The stand by time between cycles was reduced to just a couple times a day. My water heater is in the garage and during the winter the air gets down into the 40F.
is there anyway you can post a pic of your house?
air intake and exhaust has to be balanced.
before you put any kind of power vent you should take the time and SEAL all gaps between attic and conditioned space.
use spray foam, caulk, alu tape.
definitely you have a venting issue: you need to added powervent but also add soffit vents hole, check out the circular soffit vents you can add. Also reinsulate from the attic while you are up there.
air intake and exhaust has to be balanced.
before you put any kind of power vent you should take the time and SEAL all gaps between attic and conditioned space.
use spray foam, caulk, alu tape.
definitely you have a venting issue: you need to added powervent but also add soffit vents hole, check out the circular soffit vents you can add. Also reinsulate from the attic while you are up there.
Here is a pic of the front of the house and as you can see there are two gable vents on the left side but nothing on the right side. This is where the hottest part of the house is during the summer months. So I was thinking about going ahead and adding a gable vent on the right and left sides of the house. The power fan is currently on the gable vent to the right of the one above the garage.
- Status
