atf driveing me crazy!!!!!

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I have a thread about my honda and a different one about my hyundai. When I really think about it I dont REALLY know anything about atf and power steering fluid and I dont REALLY think anyone else does either. I asked about viscosity and how it influences hydrolic fluid, no one knows. I ask about viscosity index and how it affects atf and power steering fluid, no one knows. Maybe I'll just trust the OEM with these choices because honestly I can tell that amsoil atf shifts smoother than z1 when shifting into drive and reverse but I dont really know if its decreasing wear or accelerating it. What do you guys think? I have seen the used oil analysis and seen that OEM atf drops off the table in viscosity but maybe I'll just change it more frequently. I honstly dont know. Z1 vs castrol import vs amsoil or spIII vs castrol import vs amsoil I have no idea and I dont think anyone else does either.
 
I do think that the reason that most OEM atf is GP I or II is because of seal compatibility because I was reading an article that said that the more refined base an atf has the more seal conditioner additive they have to put in the mix. The article also said that the most important thing for an atf to have is the correct viscosity. That makes it very hard to match OEM because I cant find a PDS for z1 or spIII.
 
ATF and power steering fluid have become somewhat of a "specialty" subject simply because there's so many different car manufacturers/transmission makers calling for different requirments (e.g. Aisin-Warner calls for JWS-3309, whereas Honda been going after ATF Z-1 (with the exception of some CVTs, which I have no info on that)...and then there's Dexron, etc.

Because I'm not "adventurious" enough to manipulate my ATFs for the sake of achieving something different from the manufacturers (my goal has always been to obtain the longest/best possible service life out of our vehicles)...so w/o knowing the viscosity, etc. has no effect on me nor do I care about what's in certain specific brands/composition of ATFs.

I'm using Castrol multi-vehicle for Imports for both my dad's 7th gen civic and wiefy's 04 Camry 4cyl and I'm content with the results so far.

My 2c's worth.

Q.
 
does the castrol "feel" like the z1 or did it change the way it shifted. amsoil definatly changed the shifting.
 
For the record: I've used dealer sold versions of Honda Z1 and Toyota T-IV on those cars, and to me Castrol multi-ATF imports feel exactly the same, for a fraction of the price.

Mind you though: N/A constructed Toyota OEM most likely sourced their T-IV fluid from Exxon-Mobil (there's the equivalent of that on retail called "ATF-3309") and my understanding is that they are what the auto manufacturers used in their assembly line as factory fill.

So, am I worried about Castrol ATF will lead to failure/harm on our cars, nope. (they are definitely JWS-3309 approved).

I believe in properly maintaining A/T gear boxes by changing the fluid with factory approved/specified ATFs. I don't believe in boutique oils in that sense for they never been able to show me their certification/approval/endorsement by those auto manufacturers/gearbox manufacturers use and I would not care about them.

Again, my 2c's worth. You can do whatever you want (it's your money afterall).

Q.
 
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For drain/fill intervals beyond 20K miles I would use Amsoil or Red Line ATF. I currently use Amsoil ATF in both of my Honda vehicles and noticed a dramatic improvement in shift quality and noise in my wife's 2006 Pilot after converting the AT to Amsoil ATF. That alone was worth the added cost of using a top-shelf synthetic ATF.

If you are happy with the shift quality using OEM fluids, and want to reduce wear, shorter drain intervals work well too. Synthetic ATF supposedly reduces an AT's operating temperature. A 20°F reduction in an AT's operating temperature is claimed to double the AT's service life.
 
My AT experience is limited to two Saab 4-speed Aisin-Warner units (two different vehicles) over the past 9 yrs.
Here's what I know about ATF (as it relates to Dexron & Mobil products):

Due to GM's release of Dexron VI synthetic blend ATF, no new fluid can be labeled as "Dexron III." It can only be labeled as "approved for use where Dexron III is specified." Because of this, most manufacturers have now revised their Dexron/Mercon labels to read "Dex/Merc" or something similar.

Dexron VI is a synthetic blend ATF & is not recommended by Mobil Tech Support for use where Dexron III is specified. However, its spec sheet says it can be used in pre-'06 cars specifying Dex III, so there's a bit of a conflict to help the consumer. Of note, its fluid properties are different from Dexron III.

Mobil ATF 3309 is mineral oil based & recommended for use in Aisin-Warner 5-speed automatics. The approvals are JWS 3309, GM 9986195, VW/Audi G-055-025-A2, & Toyota T-IV/T4 & T-III/T3. Although not recommended as a direct replacement for Dexron III, Mobil Tech Support said it is safe to mix with Dexron III or use as a replacement. Its fluid properties are similar to Dexron III.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is recommended for use wherever Dexron III or 3309 is specified. It is not recommended for use where Dexron VI is specified. Its fluid properties are similar to Dexron III & 3309. Being fully synthetic, it does, of course, have the benefit of significantly improved cold flow properties (along with all of the other synthetic oil benefits).
 
Originally Posted By: Lyondellic
For drain/fill intervals beyond 20K miles I would use Amsoil or Red Line ATF. I currently use Amsoil ATF in both of my Honda vehicles and noticed a dramatic improvement in shift quality and noise in my wife's 2006 Pilot after converting the AT to Amsoil ATF. That alone was worth the added cost of using a top-shelf synthetic ATF.

If you are happy with the shift quality using OEM fluids, and want to reduce wear, shorter drain intervals work well too. Synthetic ATF supposedly reduces an AT's operating temperature. A 20°F reduction in an AT's operating temperature is claimed to double the AT's service life.


+1 I believe that Redline, Schaeffers and Amsoil ATF are far superior to their OEM counterpart, and well worth the extra money.
 
I think it is hard to say what is better or not without doing a used oil analysis on your car.

Most ATF are pretty good in terms of oxidation resistance; it's the friction property that is good or bad for your car. I think most fluids that has label in the back that says recommended for such and such cars are fine wear wise, but may or may not be good for your shifting feel.

There are only so many types of transmission design out there, you have wet clutch pack with gears, belt and pulley driven CVT, or electric motor driven IVT from Toyota. So if you are not using the typical ATF in the belt driven CVT, you are not going to have to many problems out there as long as you drain and refill every 30k. If your transmission still dies, then it most likely is a design issue.

I though that most ATF use a blend or GRP III base stock due to the need for additive solvency, and blend / GRP III has sufficient oxidation resistance before the additives wear out.
 
Originally Posted By: FZ1
Just run the oem atf and drain and fill more often.


+1 that is what I do unless the OEM specifies an alternative fluid. Currently only ZF gives you a list of alternative ATF's that they have actually tested and approved. On Hondas I always use the factory ATF and just shop several dealers for the best case price. I was getting z-1 for under $5qt.
 
That's a good price. It costs me $28 or so for 4 quarts. I'm gonna just pay the dealer $60-$70 for a drain and fill every year or so. If my transmission goes,I'll be in a good negotiating position to ask the dealer/honda to pick up a portion of the replacement.
 
[/quote]Currently only ZF gives you a list of alternative ATF's that they have actually tested and approved. [/quote]

PT1, do you know where I can find this list? I'm looking to find a fluid for my ZF 6 speed automatic.

Thanks.
 
ryland, FWIW, I've put about 500mi on my Hunday since I changed the factory SP-III to Maxlife. I don't feel a change at all. Given caravanmike got Hyundai SP-III for ~$6.50/qt and Maxlife is ~$5, you may as well price out OEM ATF in your area.
 
Well just drained out the amsoil atf. Looked at the magnant and there was a lot of iron sludge again so I took my other car went to walmart and bought 7 quarts (all they had) of castrol import. I've been thinking about it a lot and if I like it I'll use it im my hyundai also. It was $4.52 a quart. The reason I want to try it out is that it has a high flash point, low pour point, high viscosity index and it is one of the few ATF's that say they meet or exceed the JASO-1A standard. So I just did two drain and fills and I'll tell you guys how it does. Just going through my neighborhood a few times after the first drain and fill it felt smooth and delayed a little not as quick to shift as amsoil. It felt a lot like the way it shifts with z1 if you know what I'm talking about. Havent driven it since the second drain and fill but I will tonight.
 
Originally Posted By: Vaca
[/quote]Currently only ZF gives you a list of alternative ATF's that they have actually tested and approved.


PT1, do you know where I can find this list? I'm looking to find a fluid for my ZF 6 speed automatic.

Thanks. [/quote]

Go to the ZF website and you can find the technical support engineer for your products and he will send you the list for your transmission. Wait I found it. The Tech support engineer for cars is Martin Vogel ([email protected]) He is a very polite guy and will send you a .pdf file with approved ATF for your transmission.
 
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Just changed the ATF in my 2005 Honda Accord V6 yesterday from Z1 to Amsoil using the Honda recommended flushing system - drain, fill, drive, repeat 2 more times. Since I'm at 113K mileage the transmission will be mine to fix if it goes. I want to run what helps me sleep at night. I'll keep you posted but shifts great on my first commute (25 miles) this morning.
 
So far, so good. Only noticeable difference is the Amsoil universal ATF in my V6 Accord makes the shifting just a little crisper.
 
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