ATF drain and fill question

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More questions for my 2000 Eclipse with 155k miles of which 20k miles is mine. I changed the ATF last month but found out I did not have the right size socket for the drain plug. I disconnected the cooler return hose, started the engine and drained 4 quarts from the torque converter, refilled and drained another 4 quarts and refilled the last time. The initial batch was dark brown/almost black, the second batch was a bit red with the new fluid. I also changed the screw-on ATF filter which was OEM/13 years old.

The capacity is about 8 quarts, and I used 8 quarts of Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF. The fluid looks red now although still somewhat darker than new. Due to the ignorance of previous owners I was a bit worried about potential failures after the fluid change. So far the car runs okay for a month.

I am looking into another drain and fill from the plug since I got the socket wrench now. The question is do I do it now or wait until next year? Since I drained from the cooler return hose, the dirty fluid never returned to the drain pan to mix with the new fluid, so this might be better than two drain and fill.

Also, do I need to warm the car up or do it cold when I remove the drain plug? Which is the best way to drain the dirt and metal shaves out of the drain pan?

Lastly, Lubegard or not? I see different opinions here. The transmission never had a problem or hard shifting with me.

FYI, the car will be used for short commute to/at school, so lots of 2-mile trips. Because we just got a Prius I will try to put long trips on the new car. The last oil change was in March 2200 miles ago with dino. The engine is already noisy, so I plan to change it early with Mobil 1 HM 5w30 soon, after I fix the power steering/suspension problem. I hope this can protect the engine better due to extremely short trips. Sounds good?
 
I think the way you are draining it is better, but you will want to drop the pan to clean it out. The best way to clean the pan is to remove it and clean it all out with brake cleaner. You won't get much of the bottom lying metal out with just the drain plug, but its probably still good enough.

Does it specify Dex/Merc Fluid? If so lubeguard red is a good idea.

I think you could do another drain and fill now, maybe two more, to get the rest of the old fluid out.

It doesn't really matter if its hot or cold when you do the drain, the only thing i would worry about is hot fluid/burns when doing it hot.
 
The method with the cooler line is good. But you should check if your trans has a replaceable filter. If so, you should drop the pan and replace. If not then it is a toss up.
 
Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
The method with the cooler line is good. But you should check if your trans has a replaceable filter. If so, you should drop the pan and replace. If not then it is a toss up.


He said he changed the screw on filter.

The way you did it you effectively got about 6 QTs of new fluid in the system. I might do it one more time.
 
I'd wait at least 1000 miles before doing another drain/fill. Yeah I'd probably do one or two more. Again going 1000 between drain/fills.

YES, on the Lubeguard. I've only read and experienced nothing but good things from it. It's the only additive type product my mechanic with 25 years experience recommends. Pretty much everything else he calls snake oil except for this stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
I'd wait at least 1000 miles before doing another drain/fill. Yeah I'd probably do one or two more. Again going 1000 between drain/fills.

YES, on the Lubeguard. I've only read and experienced nothing but good things from it. It's the only additive type product my mechanic with 25 years experience recommends. Pretty much everything else he calls snake oil except for this stuff.


I think its not needs on the high quality ATFs like Amsoil, Redline.
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
leave it. you did fine.


+1

Drop pan in a year or two.


I am planning to keep this car for at least two or three more years. But kind of worried about the risk of dropping the pan since I am not going to put a lot of miles on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: satinsilver
I'd wait at least 1000 miles before doing another drain/fill. Yeah I'd probably do one or two more. Again going 1000 between drain/fills.

YES, on the Lubeguard. I've only read and experienced nothing but good things from it. It's the only additive type product my mechanic with 25 years experience recommends. Pretty much everything else he calls snake oil except for this stuff.


I think its not needs on the high quality ATFs like Amsoil, Redline.


I am using Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF which was recommended by folks at club3g forum.
 
Stay away from the Lubeguard and other snake oils.

Just because a mechanic uses it, even if he is a good mechanic does NOT mean he knows about the best fluids for modern automatic transmissions.


If the transmission works fine, only drain and fill with new fluid that meets Mitsu specs for this unit.

Castrol Import Multi Vehicle ATF is a good product and I would use it IF it meets Mitsu specs.
 
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Originally Posted By: mycnam
But kind of worried about the risk of dropping the pan since I am not going to put a lot of miles on it.
Why are you worried? There's nothing you can hurt unless you start disassembling the valve body. Drop the pan, clean it well (including the magnet) with Brakleen, install a new filter, and reinstall the pan. Add fluid and you're done.

If you have any concerns at all, use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Although there are other fluids that may be equally acceptable, OEM is the "safe" choice.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Originally Posted By: mycnam
But kind of worried about the risk of dropping the pan since I am not going to put a lot of miles on it.
Why are you worried? There's nothing you can hurt unless you start disassembling the valve body. Drop the pan, clean it well (including the magnet) with Brakleen, install a new filter, and reinstall the pan. Add fluid and you're done.

If you have any concerns at all, use the fluid recommended by the manufacturer. Although there are other fluids that may be equally acceptable, OEM is the "safe" choice.


I may mess up the pan/gasket/it may leak/etc...
 
I'll be doing a D&F next weekend on a friend's recent '99 Galant purchase. No owner's manual. What size socket did you need for the drain plug; I think I read somewhere 27mm? Looking to get the trans filter today at AAP or PB's. If not I'll be at the dealer this week. How tough is it to remove a filter that's been there 13 years?
 
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Originally Posted By: PhillyJoe
I'll be doing a D&F next weekend on a friend's recent '99 Galant purchase. No owner's manual. What size socket did you need for the drain plug; I think I read somewhere 27mm? Looking to get the trans filter today at AAP or PB's. If not I'll be at the dealer this week. How tough is it to remove a filter that's been there 13 years?


Isn't '99 Galant a DSM? My 2000 Eclipse is a 3G which is different. I haven't tried on the drain plug. Why don't you just measure it directly?

I just checked with my factory manual. There are two filters: the spin-on one can be easily changed, I just used a Harbor Freight filter wrench then used a torque to tighten (or hand-tighten). There is no pan to drop, and the other filter cannot be taken off unless taken the whole transmission apart! I don't know about your setup.

My transmission looks like this and this.
 
The filter inside is more like a fine screen to protect the pump & valve body from large bits. A lot of transmission use just that now and no filter. At least you got a spin on filter. My VW doesn't just the screen.
 
I decided to do the drain and fill early and one last time. Last time was one month ago. There are quite a bit of metal shaves on the drain plug, I'm glad I cleaned that. I used 3.5 quarts of Castrol Import Multi ATF with some Lubegard.

By the way the plug is 24mm.
 
Hi,
mycnam - You used a great product. Castrol's range of transmission lubricants are amongst the very best you can buy at any price when used as specified

For me I would not have used any additive
 
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