ATF+4 substitutes

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I want to change out the trans. fluid on my Jeep GC.

Just curious if there's any recommendations on trans fluids for chrysler transmissions..

Those transmissions have been picky in my experience.

I'll do the band adjustment and filter change as well... it has 140k and im not sure when the last change was done, but the color is still a nice purpley-red.
 
Amoils ATF in the trans and t-case ..heck, PS for that matter.

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Just so you know. I own two Wranglers ..my neighbor/customer's Rubi and Cummins ..my son's XJ ..
 
The only Grand Cherokees to use the AW4 were the early '93 models with the 4.0 six. Mid-year they dropped it and went with the 42RE on the sixes thereafter.
 
My son's 2000 XJ has an AW4. I guess you mean "in a Grand".


2000 JEEP CHEROKEE 4.0L 6-cyl Engine Code
LUBRICANTS & FLUIDS:
Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Signature Series 0w30 100% Synthetic Motor Oil (SSOQT)
SAE 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ATMQT)
XL 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLTQT)
Above 0F......10W-30
Below 61F......5w30
Manual Transmission,NV3550......GLS [1]
Synthetic Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (5w30) (MTFQT)
Manual Transmission,EX NV3550......GL-3
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
Automatic Transmission,30RH......AP4
Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Automatic Transmission,AW4......MA

Synthetic Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (ATD1G)
 
yeah sorry, it's a 98 with a 4.0... should be a 42re

i just want to refresh all the fluids, cause i'll be making a move in a couple months and want my jeep in tip top shape.
 
Kind of sketchy reading about all this mixup on ATF fluids for Chrysler transmissions.. I had a 44re I believe in my Ram with a 360, it was a 1996 and used ATF+4.

Some articles are saying to ONLY use ATF +3 in 42re's behind the 4.0 of my 1998 Grand Cherokee...
 
Reviving my question again... It's got 145k on the ODO, so I'm curious if I should do a flush and refill with all 12.1 qts, or just drain the pan a and swap the filter? I'm leaning toward just the pain and adding 4 qts or so, then do the procedure again after 500 miles or so, adding another 4, etc.
 
Drop the Pan, change the filter. Install a drain plug in the Pan, install an external filter on the cooling line.

Drop 4 quarts through drain plug and replace when convenient at some later date and mileage
 
Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Drop the Pan, change the filter. Install a drain plug in the Pan, install an external filter on the cooling line.

Drop 4 quarts through drain plug and replace when convenient at some later date and mileage


Well that makes the most sense. Thanks!
 
Any +4 will do. I'd do exactly as Wrcsixeight said as far as adding a drain plug, etc. Also, depending on how long the pan is off, it may take more than the 4 quarts spec-ed for a pan drop. My 46RE is spec-ed at 4 qts for a pan drop as well, but by the time I did the filter, cleaned out the pan, etc, enough drained out of the valve body that it took 6 quarts to get it back to full.

Remember when you're done that you need to get it warmed up with a test drive and then check the fluid in Neutral with the engine idling to get a correct read. If it's up to the min mark idling in Neutral cold, you've got enough in there for the test drive.
 
On Amazon they have some B&M products, what do you guys think of their stuff?

This item: B&M 80277 Universal Remote Transmission Filter Kit by B&M $41.90

B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler by B&M $54.45

B&M 80250 Automatic Transmission Universal Drain Plug Kit by B&M $9.26
 
Most auto part stores stock similar or the same. Look there too.
The parts you mentioned look fine.

Drainplug kit quality is hit or miss. Might be better off finding a welder, and tap a welded thicken'd area for a drain plug the same thread as your oil pan.
 
I have the Universal Remote Transmission Filter Kit by B&M on my truck.
It seems to work as advertized and provides about an extra quart of capacity. I imagine the extra capacity and the surface area of the filter helps keep the system a bit cooler when towing.

It isn't that difficult to install it is just time consuming.
I haven't opened up the filters to see if they are catching anything, but I did do a cooler line flush and drop the pan at the same time as installing the filter so that there would be fewer contaminates at the time of installation.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Most auto part stores stock similar or the same. Look there too.
The parts you mentioned look fine.

Drainplug kit quality is hit or miss. Might be better off finding a welder, and tap a welded thicken'd area for a drain plug the same thread as your oil pan.



I'd rather avoid a welder, but my initial thought was that is the only way to install a drain plug.
 
Ok well after some searching, what intrigues me the most are three components from JEGS.com

Trans Filter KIt w/ Temp Gauge AND Filter (Derale)

Transmission Cooler

Jegs Drain Plug

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Now considering if I get all these components, would it be wise to wait and get a higher grade ATF like Amsoil or Royal Purple? I basically want to do this as a side project while I save up money to put into a rear end I am building. Don't want to get too excessive with the transmission, so if Castrol ATF+4 will work with similar performance results as Amsoil/RP, I'll stick with the cheaper.

Also, the Trans. should be a 42RE, not exactly a performance transmission. I'd like to step up to a 44RE, or even an AW4, but I've read that can be a very hectic swap for a 98 ZJ.
 
I highly doubt you have a 42re since it was used
on fwd cars with the engine mounted N-S.
You should have the 44re.(wich is basically an 904 with overdrive)
 
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