At which temp range would you switch from 5w to 0w?

[oil pan 4]

Then why did you bring up a freezer and pour test?

Some of you talk with such authority and how easy it is to test oil pumpability, so some follow up questions were quite relevant IMO to test that knowledge.

Why? 3 reasons.
1, Once a year oil changes mentioned in the original post.
2, cold temperatures well below 0f mentioned in the OP.
3, any available evidence appears points to fresh oil pumping and flowing better than burned up year old oil at the stated temperatures.

The reasons to bring it up seemed all too obvious. My bad for assuming people would actually read the OP or have common sense.

 

[Astro_Guy]

I cannot think of a reason why I would want to run anything but a 0w-X in any of my cars here in Pennsylvania or anywhere I drive them to for that matter. It might be different if I lived in Tuscon.

Yeah you AZ folks, I know its a dry heat.

 

[oil pan 4]

I cannot think of a reason why I would want to run anything but a 0w-X in any of my cars here in Pennsylvania or anywhere I drive them to for that matter. It might be different if I lived in Tuscon.

Yeah you AZ folks, I know its a dry heat.

Yeah east coast people go out there and are like "its over 100 degrees! It doesn't feel that hot" then they have heat stroke 9 minutes later.

 

[Astro_Guy]

Yeah east coast people go out there and are like "its over 100 degrees! It doesn't feel that hot" then they have heat stroke 9 minutes later.

All joking aside there was a mass casualty event in Reading, PA on July 2nd when thousands of people were waiting in 102 degree heat to see the Union Pacific 4014 Big Boy that was running about an hour and a half late. Over sixty people were transported to local hospitals suffering from heat exhaustion.

 

[Exhaustgases]

When you move to Fairbanks Alaska then you could switch to a 0W-XX oil, other wise there is no reason at all to do so.

If you live in the desert area's down south, 10W-XX or higher.

I run 10W-30 all year, in the pacific northwest in my daily.

And all through the 1970's - 80's, it was straight 30 year round, that was in 68 ford stang, an old Rambler, other amc's, old chev's, aircooled VW, datsuns, etc.
In dads cars in the 50's through the 60's straight 30 year round, and some winters it was cold enough to freeze a small local lake over a foot thick of ice. Oh and never ever had any oil caused engine issues with any of them.

 

[Adkcedarman]

When you move to Fairbanks Alaska then you could switch to a 0W-XX oil, other wise there is no reason at all to do so.

If you live in the desert area's down south, 10W-XX or higher.

I run 10W-30 all year, in the pacific northwest in my daily.

What are your coldest winter temps there?

 

[#18FAN]

All joking aside there was a mass casualty event in Reading, PA on July 2nd when thousands of people were waiting in 102 degree heat to see the Union Pacific 4014 Big Boy that was running about an hour and a half late. Over sixty people were transported to local hospitals suffering from heat exhaustion.

Many never feel 102F or any where near heat adapted most AZ folks are in Phoenix by May or June are heat adapted. Heat adaptation takes about 2 weeks some should research needed.

 

[Exhaustgases]

What are your coldest winter temps there?

I just added more to that post. Maybe 14F, and sometimes a bit lower, I have seen single digit a few times. Not sure what it was when I was a high schooler temp wise. Thats when the lake froze over real good, took a month or more to do that. Oh yeah SAE 30 worked in that.
Oh and even in colder temps many old airlines in the 50's early 60's, running a 60 weight oil year round.

 

[oil pan 4]

I just added more to that post. Maybe 14F, and sometimes a bit lower, I have seen single digit a few times. Not sure what it was when I was a high schooler temp wise. Thats when the lake froze over real good, took a month or more to do that. Oh yeah SAE 30 worked in that.
Oh and even in colder temps many old airlines in the 50's early 60's, running a 60 weight oil year round.

Piston air craft also use ground heaters to warm the engnes up before starting when its cold out, or they're kept in a heated hanger until they're brought outside for startup.

 

[kschachn]

When you move to Fairbanks Alaska then you could switch to a 0W-XX oil, other wise there is no reason at all to do so.

If you live in the desert area's down south, 10W-XX or higher.

I run 10W-30 all year, in the pacific northwest in my daily.

And all through the 1970's - 80's, it was straight 30 year round, that was in 68 ford stang, an old Rambler, other amc's, old chev's, aircooled VW, datsuns, etc.
In dad’s cars in the 50's through the 60's straight 30 year round, and some winters it was cold enough to freeze a small local lake over a foot thick of ice. Oh and never ever had any oil caused engine issues with any of them.

Nor is there a factual and substantive reason not to do so. It’s a better oil.

 

[kschachn]

I just added more to that post. Maybe 14F, and sometimes a bit lower, I have seen single digit a few times. Not sure what it was when I was a high schooler temp wise. Thats when the lake froze over real good, took a month or more to do that. Oh yeah SAE 30 worked in that.
Oh and even in colder temps many old airlines in the 50's early 60's, running a 60 weight oil year round.

A comparison to aircraft is silly.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Nor is there a factual and substantive reason not to do so. It’s a better oil.

I think the tests showed less wear with 20W-50 oil, than any 0W-XX. So the proof is out there, and especially for Hot climates.

 

[Exhaustgases]

A comparison to aircraft is silly.

Why still the same parts flopping around inside. And much more critical for being dependable. And when at altitude the temperatures are in the sub zero range for at least the old large recip models, at 30,000 feet.

 

[oil pan 4]

Why still the same parts flopping around inside. And much more critical for being dependable. And when at altitude the temperatures are in the sub zero range for at least the old large recip models, at 30,000 feet.

Good point. The piston aircraft world doesn't seem too keen on 20 or 30 weight oils...

 

[kschachn]

I think the tests showed less wear with 20W-50 oil, than any 0W-XX. So the proof is out there, and especially for Hot climates.

I think something else.

But hey, you go for it.

 

[Indestro]

Why? 3 reasons.
1, Once a year oil changes mentioned in the original post.
2, cold temperatures well below 0f mentioned in the OP.
3, any available evidence appears points to fresh oil pumping and flowing better than burned up year old oil at the stated temperatures.

The reasons to bring it up seemed all too obvious. My bad for assuming people would actually read the OP or have common sense.

I think you raise a good point with common sense. People often bring up oil pumpability and more specifically, pressurized lubrication in the cold weather lubrication context. However, I believe cylinder walls in car and truck engines are primarily lubricated by oil that is simply thrown from the crankshaft, which would probably be much less with colder thicker oil. So pumpability is not the only important consideration, and it may not even be the most important consideration. I guess it depends on how important or problematic cylinder wear is in a situation.

I think most modern car and truck engines are no longer designed to have crankshafts which dip into the oil in the sump (oil pan), then throw that oil onto the cylinder walls.

My understanding is that most modern car and truck engines are designed to leak a significant amount of oil out the connecting rod journal area (where the connecting rods and crankshaft meet). Yes, oil is pumped into that area. However, this oil simply gets thrown onto the cylinder walls, which is a critical wear area.

Many modern car and truck engines have oil squirters that squirt oil onto the underside of pistons (primarily for piston cooling, not for cylinder wall lubrication). However, that oil drips down onto the spinning crankshaft, then it is thrown onto the cylinder walls also.

Someone please correct me if my understanding is wrong.

Indestro

 

[Adkcedarman]

I think you raise a good point with common sense. People often bring up oil pumpability and more specifically, pressurized lubrication in the cold weather lubrication context. However, I believe cylinder walls in car and truck engines are primarily lubricated by oil that is simply thrown from the crankshaft, which would probably be much less with colder thicker oil. So pumpability is not the only important consideration, and it may not even be the most important consideration. I guess it depends on how important or problematic cylinder wear is in a situation.

I think most modern car and truck engines are no longer designed to have crankshafts which dip into the oil in the sump (oil pan), then throw that oil onto the cylinder walls.

My understanding is that most modern car and truck engines are designed to leak a significant amount of oil out the connecting rod journal area (where the connecting rods and crankshaft meet). Yes, oil is pumped into that area. However, this oil simply gets thrown onto the cylinder walls, which is a critical wear area.

Many modern car and truck engines have oil squirters that squirt oil onto the underside of pistons (primarily for piston cooling, not for cylinder wall lubrication). However, that oil drips down onto the spinning crankshaft, then it is thrown onto the cylinder walls also.

Someone please correct me if my understanding is wrong.

Indestro

You’re 100% correct - in my experience it’s referred to as “sling” and “passive oiling”. Crankshaft and connecting rod sling is the primary oiling mechanism for the lower cylinder wall and under piston. Most engines in the last 70 years have pressurized oil galleys in the crank and connecting rod bearings though - unlike vintage engines that had no pressurized ports.

 

[oil pan 4]

I think you raise a good point with common sense. People often bring up oil pumpability and more specifically, pressurized lubrication in the cold weather lubrication context. However, I believe cylinder walls in car and truck engines are primarily lubricated by oil that is simply thrown from the crankshaft, which would probably be much less with colder thicker oil. So pumpability is not the only important consideration, and it may not even be the most important consideration. I guess it depends on how important or problematic cylinder wear is in a situation.

I think most modern car and truck engines are no longer designed to have crankshafts which dip into the oil in the sump (oil pan), then throw that oil onto the cylinder walls.

My understanding is that most modern car and truck engines are designed to leak a significant amount of oil out the connecting rod journal area (where the connecting rods and crankshaft meet). Yes, oil is pumped into that area. However, this oil simply gets thrown onto the cylinder walls, which is a critical wear area.

Many modern car and truck engines have oil squirters that squirt oil onto the underside of pistons (primarily for piston cooling, not for cylinder wall lubrication). However, that oil drips down onto the spinning crankshaft, then it is thrown onto the cylinder walls also.

Someone please correct me if my understanding is wrong.

Indestro

The primary wear mechanism for cold starts is water condensation on the bores and piston rings during cold starts.
I've taken apart engines that had been sitting for 20 years that still had plenty of oil up in the rings. Seemed like plenty of oil to keep the cylinders lubed for the few seconds it would take to get oil flowing and flying again.

 

[FZ1]

Its so simple even you can do it.
Take a fresh quart of oil and a used quart of the same oil, put both in a freezer and see how much thicker the used oil is. You'll see the used oil is significantly thicker.

But I have an LG.

 

[oil pan 4]

But I have an LG.

So you can only get your freezer to go down to room temperature?