At what timdo you consider your brake fluid "wet?"

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So brake fluid and boiling points...

If I were doing trackdays in my car, it'd be all about dry boiling point as the car would get regular fluid changes. But since I'm driving on the street, and I'm headed to The Dragon this year (a very twisty road that can be tough on the brakes depending on your driving style and pace), I'm curious as to which cost effective fluid I should buy if I change the fluid a week or two prior to my trip? (Yes I know this is splitting hairs, but if your first reaction is "you're overthinking this too much..." you're right, I love researching this as much as the next forum member. :p)

So I unsuccessfully set out to find how long it takes brake fluid to absorb water and register at the wet boiling point. For street cars wet boiling point is the most important when you consider someone should change their brake fluid every ~2 years.

First a definition of wet boiling point... it is defined as the point in which a brake fluid absorbs 3.7% of water by volume. We all know a brake fluid's dry boiling point starts to degrade towards wet boiling point the second the bottle of fluid is opened, but the question is, how fast?

I've found a few websites that talk about this...

The graph on this website would have you think the 3.7% wet boiling point is reached at around the 2yr mark. (http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/resources/faq/dry-and-wet-boiling-points-dot-brake-fluid/)

In the section labeled "How fast does brake fluid absorb moisture?" It talks about fluid absorbing 4.5-5% in as little as two weeks (http://www.sector111.com/images/products...ake%20Fluid.pdf)


And in this forum a guy tested to find his boiling point only dropped 5-8 degrees over 6mo: (http://rennlist.com/forums/racing-and-dr...tml#post4559900)

So it appears the interwebs is all over the place on when wet boiling point comes into play... what say you?
 
Depends on environment.

How long do you think it takes to get "wet" in phoenix... vs miami.

In general anything more often than 2 years on a daily driver is a total waste for most people.

I usually try to time mine for brake work around 3 years.
 
My Jeep goes through calipers quite frequently so at least every 2 years it gets a complete flush. I just did the first flush on the Focus (I know, I know ...) after 5 years and it was quite nasty. Definitely needed it. I did it because I was going to be towing my popup through the hills and didn't want to have the braking system not at 100%
 
I agree, for normal street use ~2yrs is a good way to handle it, but this is a unique situation where I won't be changing the brake fluid right before the "event" as in a trackday, and I'll still be driving a challenging road. Just to give a frame of reference here is a video with a nice map showing how twisty this road is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jvvTfgTDAM

(nevermind this individual's personal driving style)
 
Every two years the cars go to the dealer... I can't be bothered to cycle the ABS valves and do it properly so I pay the 89.95 to have it done with OEM fluid.
 
I'm more interested in what folks think about the time it takes to transition from Dry to Wet boiling points as opposed to when they change their indiv. vehicles. Thanks!
 
That would be one way to go about it. But at $75, I might as well buy Castrol SRF and call it a day. Haha. But yes, it'd be cool if there were reports of folks running their own tests as the one guy did from Rennlist in the link I posted in the original.
 
On my motorcycle, I can feel a distinct difference when brake fluid is too wet. The brake lever doesn't pull smoothly, as if it had a lot of stiction. Granted, this was before I knew much better, so the fluid was probably 4-5 years old. New fluid and the brake lever feels great. I've never noticed that on a car though.
 
Originally Posted By: Bster13
I agree, for normal street use ~2yrs is a good way to handle it, but this is a unique situation where I won't be changing the brake fluid right before the "event" as in a trackday, and I'll still be driving a challenging road. Just to give a frame of reference here is a video with a nice map showing how twisty this road is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5jvvTfgTDAM

(nevermind this individual's personal driving style)


He's not braking much.. I wouldn't either from the look of things. The car can do this all day... Just make sure the brakes release properly, and change the brake fluid if it's due.
 
Originally Posted By: Bster13
I'm more interested in what folks think about the time it takes to transition from Dry to Wet boiling points as opposed to when they change their indiv. vehicles. Thanks!


I change the fluid when I change pads in my vehicle. That'll be next year for the first time maybe (2013 car). I just did a few days at the Nordschleife this summer, and had no issues with either the brakes or the fluid. I do however strip and clean the brakes at least once per year.
 
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
On my motorcycle, I can feel a distinct difference when brake fluid is too wet. The brake lever doesn't pull smoothly, as if it had a lot of stiction. Granted, this was before I knew much better, so the fluid was probably 4-5 years old. New fluid and the brake lever feels great. I've never noticed that on a car though.


The pedal sometimes feels mooshy when the fluid gets old, even if there's no heat or no air in the brake lines.
 
If you are driving The Dragon and using your brakes hard you are driving it wrong.
It's not a point and shoot but a go with the flow road.
 
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Not my first rodeo down there. But thanks.
wink.gif


Deals_gap_06_16-1.jpg


Originally Posted By: Reggaemon
If you are driving The Dragon and using your brakes hard you are driving it wrong.
It's not a point and shoot but a go with the flow road.
 
Perhaps close, but just some healthy peg grinding in this instance. But I really enjoyed that touring bike and the way it handled. Fortunately I got away from motorcycles and now just fun, little sports cars. I adore Deal's Gap.

Originally Posted By: Reggaemon
Wow !! That's some kinda lean angle. No sparks yet. Looks close to jacking up the tire!
 
Originally Posted By: Bster13
That would be one way to go about it. But at $75, I might as well buy Castrol SRF and call it a day. Haha. But yes, it'd be cool if there were reports of folks running their own tests as the one guy did from Rennlist in the link I posted in the original.


That is just an example there are simple moisture testers for $20 that work fine.
 
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