At what point do you move on?

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According the Click & Klack who are now retired, it is always cheaper to repair that to buy new. However if you are able to pay cash for replacement vehicle?????????????????????????
 
Two things have always pushed me away to the next vehicle.

Having cash on hand for next purchase and a major repair or set of them. A breakdown also does it for me.

My 95 Civic with 225k overheated in front of a Subaru dealer and walked out with a brand new Subaru WRX.

Came back next day for Civic and ended up selling for $2500
 
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
I'm fairly sure this has been discussed before but I can't dins any threads on it.

I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra SE. 104K Miles on the clock.
1. Significant rust spots on the body but no through holes. Just blisters.
2. Right now, it would need the evaporator core replaced and the front coil springs and /or struts replaced.
3. The rear struts have boots torn and probably need to have the whole struts replaced because the coil springs are fairly rusted too and could break if I were to compress them with a spring compressor.
4. It will probably need new rear tires soon.

Is it worth it to spend $500 for a $2500 car just to repair the A/C alone?

BTW, the engine is in good shape. No leaks and does not burn oil significantly. Should I sell and move on?

Thanks

parts prices from rock auto:
Monroe Quick-struts are available for the rears, part # 171312, $89.79 ea.

for the fronts, the coil springs moog #80862 $52.79 for the pair.
front struts:
Monroe: #71566(R),#71567(L) $51.79 ea.
KYB: #333344 (R), #333345(L) $52.79 ea.

evap core:
TYC: #97007 $54.99
GPD: #4711643 $66.79
Four Seasons: # 54908 $77.79

so... parts bill: (Sticking with Monroe on all 4 corners, and choosing the middle evap core. add $2 for KYB Front struts)
Monroe 171312 @$89.79 ea (x2) = $179.52
Moog #80862 $52.79(pair)
Monroe #71566 $51.79
Monroe #71566 $51.79
GPD #4711643 $66.79
totals to $402.74 + shipping ($335.95 w/o evap core.)

for the rust patches, couple cans of Rustoleum in the color of your choice.
drive it until the engine blows.

where are you in ohio? My local Kia Dealer is runinga christmas in july sale, offering up to $4,950 over the appraised value..
 
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Originally Posted By: Sawdusted

Is it worth it to spend $500 for a $2500 car just to repair the A/C alone?



How many miles do you think you can get for your repair $$ versus how much will it cost you to replace the current car? Remember: You already KNOW what is wrong with your current car. I say repair it this time and start making a $200/month payment to your savings for the next one. See how far you can pump the down payment.
 
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Originally Posted By: jcwit
According the Click & Klack who are now retired, it is always cheaper to repair that to buy new. However if you are able to pay cash for replacement vehicle?????????????????????????


Even if you have the cash to spend, you have to consider what spending that cash is going to cost you in the long run in lost investment opportunities.

I keep my '93 Taurus and '95 Olds on the road for that very reason. Not only are they paid for, I know what has been done to them and even though they require repair from time to time, it's still cheaper than buying either something new or something used that I have no knowledge of how it's been treated.

As far as the AC is concerned, mine went out about three years ago on the Taurus. I roll the windows down and have a 12 volt fan bolted to the dash - it works great.
 
Guys, thank you for the replies. I think my decision is made up. I went to pick up the car from the garage after some EVAP work.

Was hoping to postpone the A/C work and the suspension work for a little while more but as I drove off the lot, and went down a small curb, the coil spring gave way and my L/F tire became a low-rider. I don't doubt this garage as I know them quite well and the coils that broke off were clearly rusted through.

So, I can't drive it now but the added expense of $250 for them to fix it there vs $60 to fix it myself was the straw that broke the camel's back.

I'll fix the suspension, then sell it without the A/C. At least the heater works in our Mid-west winters.
 
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted


I'll fix the suspension, then sell it without the A/C. At least the heater works in our Mid-west winters.


It is very difficult to sell an inexpensive car without working AC in the south. Don't take it with you. Car ads for this type of car read working cold AC as a major feature down there understandably. It is a filter for people irregardless of budget down in the south.

I personally would not touch a car with a 10 foot pole without working ac. Even with an estimate for repair these repairs can run into $1000 once more things are found out. We negotiated a repair of AC as condition of sale for my MIL's Windstar van a few year back. The prior owner ended springing $1000 for a $4000 sale. The original estimate started at $400.
 
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
I must be a sucker. My Ohio car which is a 2001 Protege had rust on the left rear quarter panel. This car has been treated with Krown every year since new but had this one spot of rust. I just put a front suspension on it, I welded in new quarters which I had galvanized prior to install, galvanized the welds then painted. This car has 230,000 miles on it. To find something similar would have cost more. I know how this car has been maintained. We did this to have a nice third car. As it turns out, we use this car more than the new one. I will say if you have rust gremlins popping up everywhere, its just a matter of time before it can get out of control. I spent $1300 doing it myself. I would say in three years I will have to weld in new strut towers. I will still keep it. I do all of the work on this car myself.


Mike - my advice/guidance is meant for the general car owner who wants high reliability, modern safety features, good running and driving car with minimal hassle and cost. Clearly some folks want to preserve a car and make it last very a very long time and have the time, energy and skills to do so. I think your keeping the Protege running for so many years and for well over 200k miles is admirable. We generally buy our cars as 2-3 year old used cars to avoid most of the depreciation and then keep the car for 10 years and then get rid of it (even if its running well). Just our own policy to not drive cars more than 12-13 yo. So we sell the old car used when it gets to its 12-13 yo birthday and buy a newer used car to replace it. This may not be the least cost method, but this has worked well for my family, we buy and enjoy very nice late model cars (usually Toyota, Lexus, Honda, Acura, Mazda) and tends to result in low maint costs and little to no repair costs at all on the cars we drive.
 
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Originally Posted By: Art_Vandelay
Find the same (or similar) car with 75,000 miles in excellent condition and buy it for $3500.
Sell yours for $1500-$2000 and you'll be ahead all the way around.

A string of repairs cost more than the difference between poor and excellent condition.

Future ownership costs are lower on an excellent condition vehicle as well.


Sounds like pretty good advice to me.
 
Originally Posted By: rjundi
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What the heck did you do to the car?

Most of those things have been like new on my 30 year old cars with >200k miles.


Normal wear on an average relatively inexpensive car that is 12 years old that is daily driven.


Really because I drive my 22 year old car daily, including heavily salted roads, and have none of that. Just took it on a trip,to Newport, RI and back and it was perfect. Don't need anything like is claimed.

So 12 year old Japanese is worse than 22 year old euro that was actually engineered more like in the late 70's? Doubtful.

Our similar and older Japanese econo daily drivers didnt have such issues.
 
How much effort did you put into cleaning and rustproofing?

I've never done much of either on my vehicles. As a result I think that, underneath, my 2 year old Camry and my 9 year old VW have similar rust. Perhaps worse on the Camry. No joke. I need to play catch up on rust on the Camry, stop it in its tracks.

As for the rest, I dunno. Stuff wears out. In particular, IMO Japanese stuff is designed with the premise that it only needs to last a few years; their home market games their system so as to ensure it.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
How much effort did you put into cleaning and rustproofing?

I've never done much of either on my vehicles. As a result I think that, underneath, my 2 year old Camry and my 9 year old VW have similar rust. Perhaps worse on the Camry. No joke. I need to play catch up on rust on the Camry, stop it in its tracks.

As for the rest, I dunno. Stuff wears out. In particular, IMO Japanese stuff is designed with the premise that it only needs to last a few years; their home market games their system so as to ensure it.


Only in the last two years or so since being discussed on BITOG. All Ive done is spray the wheelwells with corrosion X, never took it to krown, etc.

But Ive had multiple MB diesels tht are 30 years old and well over 200k that have lived in NJ, seen salt, and werent having such issues. And those cars are known to rot once rust has started. Theyll keep driving nice, but they will rot away. Still none of the same.

I still feel that users have as much to do with longevity of their stuff, as the actual design does.
 
I move on when a deal too good to pass up falls in my lap, usually selling the "replaced" vehicle to a friend or relative who drives it another three to five years... None have ever been sold because of rust issues...
 
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