How well can AutoRX replenish badly leaking valve stem seals? Any experiences? Thanks!
ARX for valve stem seals?
- Thread starter the_oil_dealer
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MolaKule
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ARX doesn't do much replenshing. It can clean and swell seals (conditioning), but can't work miracles where the valve stem seals are badly worn.
how much more effectively does ARX swell seals over another stop leak additive, generally speaking?
Ah okay. Well the engien is turning over at 280,000km's and inside is only lightly tanned. No sludge at all... before I had this car, at 250K, the previous owners took it in for your garden variety 10w30/5w30 bulk oil changes, but I believe they condcted them regularly. Since I've had it, its been seeing extremely high rpms quite often and I've used all kinds of oil from M1 15w50, to XD-3, both 0w40 and 15w40 to Synthetic 5w20. I bought a jug of Valvoline MaxLife, my first high mileage oil, and topped it off for thelast 8k... it used all 4 litres! Witht he Maxlife oil consumption has skyrocketed... it seems like a real suck-*** oil! i'm going back to redline mixed with XD-3 or GC... but i wanna get rid of this valve stem leakage before, or else money is going to get burned away
uhhmn, you dont mention make or model of the car. If it was an old school American pushrod V-8 it may be simpler to R+R the seals. Also, letting up on the long, skinny pedal to the right may help. Revving up a well used motor is just gonna aggravate the condition.
lol - yeah, i hear that... the vehicle is a 1993 Mazda MX-6... it really likes to rev, but maybe not that much (rev limiter)... doing the seals on it is a very labour intensive job (DOHC, 2 heads, Cam on lifter design)
check the PVC valve, even a new one can be defective and causing crankcase pressure on valve seals.
engine may have been overheated in past life and cooked/hardened the seals.
Compression braking with manual transx will suck oil past intake valve stems.
I'd run low cost dino in it if Auto RX doesn't help valve seals and let the next owner who does a rebuild worry about the oil consumption costs.
[ September 28, 2005, 05:17 AM: Message edited by: Steelhead ]
engine may have been overheated in past life and cooked/hardened the seals.
Compression braking with manual transx will suck oil past intake valve stems.
I'd run low cost dino in it if Auto RX doesn't help valve seals and let the next owner who does a rebuild worry about the oil consumption costs.
[ September 28, 2005, 05:17 AM: Message edited by: Steelhead ]
It is also quite likely that your ring packs are coked up with that much oil getting sucked down into the combustion chamber. It is definitly worth running an ARX treatment application for a high mileage motor.
Regarding stem seals, sometimes they are coated with a hardened glaze. ARX should remove the glaze and return some plyability to the seals. Many folks have cured the old big cloud at start up using ARX, and we all know that ARX will definitely clean the ring packs. I would defitely give it a shot. Even if the consumption was cut in half or down to a third, I think would be an acceptable solution.
Regarding stem seals, sometimes they are coated with a hardened glaze. ARX should remove the glaze and return some plyability to the seals. Many folks have cured the old big cloud at start up using ARX, and we all know that ARX will definitely clean the ring packs. I would defitely give it a shot. Even if the consumption was cut in half or down to a third, I think would be an acceptable solution.
Coked up rings could be it! The oil burning is very inconsistent, one cold morning it will start and not have compression in one cylinder... somewhat misfire, and seconds later its running perfectly smooth and fine, with no smoke at all. Most ofthe time it will start with no issue. I notivced that if its started cold just to move the car, and shut off, the nexct time it starts it will have low commpression in one cylinder for like a minute durign warm up and then no more problems... ok its settled, placing order! Thanks everyone
I've seen an awful lot of KLs with that kind of mileage and no smoke, so it's not an inherent problem. I'd go with the AutoRX and check the PVC. Mine has over 200kkm (125K miles) and runs like an electric motor - clean and quiet.
I just solved it! It was the PCV valve... when checked, yes it rattled, but the spring had no tension and thua whenever I floored the car (very often) the crank case pressure would just shoot oil vapours right into the manifold! She runs much better now, I cant believe i underestimated such a simple part!
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