I would like to run a cycle of Auto-RX in my transmission and then have it flushed and refilled (T-Tec, etc.?). I have a few questions: My main question would be how well would they flucs out the old fluid that contains the ARX? My concern is getting out all of the ARX. Another question is are there different types of machines that do this service? I recall one shop saying they flush with a cleaner of some sort, while another does not use a cleaner (this shop had a T-Tec). Last question, if I run the ARX should I drop the pan and clean it and replace the filter, or will the ARX have somewhat eliminated the need to do that? Car is a 2001 Pathfinder with about 65k miles on it. Tranny runs fine. I ran ARX in the engine last year, no problems with it. Any recomendations on tranny fluid, it is speced for Dex III/Mercon? Thanks for any thoughts.
ARX and Transmission flush
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You do not want to use a cleaner with the flush, a simple T-Tec without the cleaner should be sufficient. You will want to drop the pan and replace the filter (if you have one), if there was debris in the transmission, the Auto-RX would have placed it in the filter. When I worked at an Xpresslube, the T-Tec flushed 15 quarts of fluid through the system, that is plenty for a typical transmission to remove nearly all of the old fluid.
As for the fluid type, are you wanting to go synthetic? If you want synthetic, I am fond of the Amsoil ATF, it has made some major differences in my shifts, and I have heard the same great stories from those using Mobil 1 or Redline ATF as well. If you want conventional ATF, then any well known brand would be suitable. My philosophy is get the cheapest (Super Tech/store brand) or the higher up cost (Amsoil/any true full synthetic).
As for the fluid type, are you wanting to go synthetic? If you want synthetic, I am fond of the Amsoil ATF, it has made some major differences in my shifts, and I have heard the same great stories from those using Mobil 1 or Redline ATF as well. If you want conventional ATF, then any well known brand would be suitable. My philosophy is get the cheapest (Super Tech/store brand) or the higher up cost (Amsoil/any true full synthetic).
You do not need to remove all of the Auto-RX. Auto-RX is not harmful to the transmission if it remains inside for extended periods of time. I've even seen Dyson Analysis recommend it in lower dosage as treatment for various purposes.
ARX will clean the transmission. Debris may be accumulated in the filter and pan magnets. Dropping the pan and changing/cleaning the filter and the pan magnets are a must.
After the initial pan drop and filter change, drain the fluid from the pan drain plug or extract the fluid through the dipstick tube within 1000 miles. Each service will remove between 4-5 quarts of fluid. After two drain and refills, you would have replaced > 75% of the old fluid.
In addition, since when does a t-tech service remove 100% of the fluid?
If you do not drop the pan, change the filter, and refill with new fluid before running the machine, the old fluid will mix with the new fluid as it's pushed through the system. Even if you did drop the pan, the new fluid would still mix with the old fluid to an extent.
At best, a T-Tech Service without filling the pan with new fluid first, at best, will replace 80-90% of the old fluid.
You can do the pan drop yourself first, before going there, but that will not stop the new fluid from mixing as you drive to the shop.
For transmission fluid, Costco has Chevron Dex IIIH for under $19/case. (12 qts) Nissan MaticD is technically equivalent to Dex III. If you get hard shifts, which you shouldn't while using Dex III, add Lubegard Black at the recommended dosage.
ConfederateTyrant and The Critic - thanks for your responses.
Critic - I will drop the pan, which does have a drain plug, so things should go a little less messy. My initial thought was doing what you recommended, but was planning to switch to a syntehtic type fluid. So I was worried I would always have a certain amount of old fluid mixed in with the new syn fluid. Maybe not that big a deal, so it may be irrelevent.
Confederate, since you have operated one of these machines, if I want to bring in my own fluid, how would that work? Would they pour the 10 or so quart bottles into the machine, and then start to run it? Would there be any residual "house" fluid in the clean fluid resevoir? Also, how do they determine when all the old fluid is removed? Still not 100% convinced about using the T-Tec, but I am seriously considering it.
Critic - I will drop the pan, which does have a drain plug, so things should go a little less messy. My initial thought was doing what you recommended, but was planning to switch to a syntehtic type fluid. So I was worried I would always have a certain amount of old fluid mixed in with the new syn fluid. Maybe not that big a deal, so it may be irrelevent.
Confederate, since you have operated one of these machines, if I want to bring in my own fluid, how would that work? Would they pour the 10 or so quart bottles into the machine, and then start to run it? Would there be any residual "house" fluid in the clean fluid resevoir? Also, how do they determine when all the old fluid is removed? Still not 100% convinced about using the T-Tec, but I am seriously considering it.
At the Xpresslube I was referred to as "just a teenager" so I was never allowed to deal with the flush machines unless it was to move it. However, I saw them add fluid to it, there was an opening on top and they pumped in the bulk ATF (they tell the customer that it is 15 quarts). So I believe you'd be able to pour it in there with no problems should you bring your own ATF. Discuss it with them and get a deal on doing that before you actually go to get it done. So there may be a touch of leftover residue, but it would be clean and not contaminated. Also, be sure you stand there and make sure they use your fluid.
The machine that was used there had two clear tubes, one labeled "old" the other labeled "new," and when the fluid on the "old" side looked like the "new" side, then they'd shut the machine and car off and check the level. I watched them do several transmission flushes, without changing the filter I might add, so I knew how it operated, but there may be some different models that other shops use.
Mixing the synthetic and older fluid won't do any harm. As long as you use a Dexron III/Mercon (if that's the correct fluid type) rated synthetic ATF, then it'd be compatible. The drain and fills may require a bit more ATF to get the same purity as a flush, but it could turn out to be more cost effective and convenient for you to drain and fill. Flushes are usually about $100 from my experience.
The machine that was used there had two clear tubes, one labeled "old" the other labeled "new," and when the fluid on the "old" side looked like the "new" side, then they'd shut the machine and car off and check the level. I watched them do several transmission flushes, without changing the filter I might add, so I knew how it operated, but there may be some different models that other shops use.
Mixing the synthetic and older fluid won't do any harm. As long as you use a Dexron III/Mercon (if that's the correct fluid type) rated synthetic ATF, then it'd be compatible. The drain and fills may require a bit more ATF to get the same purity as a flush, but it could turn out to be more cost effective and convenient for you to drain and fill. Flushes are usually about $100 from my experience.
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Since you're dropping the pan yourself ..then there's nothing to stop you from doing your own flush via the cooling lines. You'll push all the remaining fluid from the torque converter. I'm not familiar with your particular trans, but most take the fluid from the hottest point for cooling and return it for "lubrication" of the rotating pieces. Before the converter the high pressure flow is for application of various servos/clutches/etc.)
So, drop the pan, change the filter ..clean out the paste ..button it up ..refill ...drain via cooling line ..refill ..continue until the number of quarts needed are moved through the system.
Aside from any difficulty in removing and replacing the pan ...this is so easy it's a crime. I did it on my minivan in about 10 minutes from start to finish (I didn't drop the pan, obviously).
So, drop the pan, change the filter ..clean out the paste ..button it up ..refill ...drain via cooling line ..refill ..continue until the number of quarts needed are moved through the system.
Aside from any difficulty in removing and replacing the pan ...this is so easy it's a crime. I did it on my minivan in about 10 minutes from start to finish (I didn't drop the pan, obviously).
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