Are trans coolers necessary?

I added a small 4 pass tube and fin style trans cooler to my 23 year old Subaru about 5 years ago. Probably keeps the trans fluid a little cooler but it's not overdoing it. I don't tow, but I think if nothing else it might extend the overall life of the trans a bit longer.
If that’s one of those 180° back and forths - I’d not go over a 4 tube either when the LPD offer less back pressure …
 
my 80e is built and running high pressure/loose triple disc converter. it sees 150-200° around town based on how much pedal i give it from stop light to stop light. accords still see 170-200° driving down the freeway. truck’s radiator exchanger is bypassed while the cars aren’t.
That’s really a testament for just how good the LPD’s are - all I ever bought back in my 1500/2500 days …
(rigged up with Fram XG16’s)
 
Thanks for the input everyone. I agree that a gauge to monitor temps is important. Unfortunately the gauge on the dash is just a glorified dummy light that only moves if overheated.
I had a 2016 f150 and it had the dummy gauge but it also showed the exact trans fluid temperature if you flipped through the driver info screen.
 
I've monitored Converter Charge/Cooler Inlet, Cooler Return/Lube, Trans Sump, & Radiator Tank temperatures on quite a few different GM units.

I never saw a situation where the radiator tank mounted cooler did anything other than COOL the fluid, Return out of the cooler was never warmer. And the Tank temps be lower still as the cooler is on the cold side of the radiator.
Your test would require you to measure temp with and without the radiator tank cooler, since your not comparing to exit / entry but if the tank cooler warms it any in sum - ie the absolute temp might still be lower.

I have never tested. That is what I was told - by someone that should know. The rad cooler is obviously there primarily for cooling, and the only warming is likely running down the interstate at like -20F or something.
 
That’s really a testament for just how good the LPD’s are - all I ever bought back in my 1500/2500 days …
(rigged up with Fram XG16’s)
that 40k has its work cut out for it in-front of my truck. all of my vehicles also have a FS8a sized filter plumbed in prior to the cooler to keep the cooler and fluid clean.
 
I've monitored Converter Charge/Cooler Inlet, Cooler Return/Lube, Trans Sump, & Radiator Tank temperatures on quite a few different GM units.

I never saw a situation where the radiator tank mounted cooler did anything other than COOL the fluid, Return out of the cooler was never warmer. And the Tank temps be lower still as the cooler is on the cold side of the radiator.
Hmmmm, I thought the “cooling” system warmed the transmission fluid when the fluid is cold.
 
If that’s one of those 180° back and forths - I’d not go over a 4 tube either when the LPD offer less back pressure …
Not sure what you mean..... you're saying the cooler I have will is not worthwhile?
 
They produce more back pressure than other style coolers …
Not sure about that. The fluid path diameter in the cooler is almost consistent with the hose diameter that I'm using, plus it's not very large at all so doesn't create too much resistance, and I'm not towing anything. Simply just a little extra cooling of the fluid.
 
My 2020 Tundra did not come with a transmission cooler even though every previous year did - they removed it as an option. I routinely pull transmission temps of +225F simply driving at 75mph on flat highway. With the transmission cooler this would be more like 200F. This is with no load in the truck other than me and one or two passengers. My truck is rated for approximately 10,000 pounds. I'm not sure I'd do any significant towing with my truck. With no significant towing, I'm doing 50k mile transmission fluid changes. Find a way to monitor the transmission temp and decide from there.
 
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Your 6R80 transmission has an internal thermostat that starts to open at 170F and is fully open at 190F. You have a cooler loop through the radiator, but no external air to oil cooler. Max tow trucks (my 2016) have an external cooler and transmission temperature shown in the info screen, yours isn't enabled due to you lacking the max tow package. You can use an OBD reader to get the actual temperature (my scangauge II will show it). The radiator thickness is also less without the tow package.
 
Not sure about that. The fluid path diameter in the cooler is almost consistent with the hose diameter that I'm using, plus it's not very large at all so doesn't create too much resistance, and I'm not towing anything. Simply just a little extra cooling of the fluid.
Coolers that do several 180° turns do - hydraulics 101.
just saying a 4 pass would not be terrible - going any bigger they are not the best at anything …
 
Coolers that do several 180° turns do - hydraulics 101.
just saying a 4 pass would not be terrible - going any bigger they are not the best at anything …
Makes sense. The biggest rationale behind going with a tube and fin design in a MUCH older non-CVT transmission (at least to me) is that if any built up large gunk from the pan dislodges and goes into the line, it won't clog up the pathway. Didn't want to risk that happening in a plate and fin design.
 
Makes sense. The biggest rationale behind going with a tube and fin design in a MUCH older non-CVT transmission (at least to me) is that if any built up large gunk from the pan dislodges and goes into the line, it won't clog up the pathway. Didn't want to risk that happening in a plate and fin design.

Id argue the plate and fin design is superior since there are multiple fluid paths. You only got one with the tube and fin. Besides id always install a Magnefine filter pre cooler.
 
Id argue the plate and fin design is superior since there are multiple fluid paths. You only got one with the tube and fin. Besides id always install a Magnefine filter pre cooler.
I didn't want to install a filter in-line, as my car is already designed with a spin-on filter feature. Plate and fin definitely offers better cooling due to larger surface area, but if one narrow pathway gets clogged with debris then you reduce the overall efficiency of the cooler. So that design is better installed on a newer vehicle. My goal is slightly longer life of my tranny, not the absolute best in class cooling of fluid.
 
I didn't want to install a filter in-line, as my car is already designed with a spin-on filter feature. Plate and fin definitely offers better cooling due to larger surface area, but if one narrow pathway gets clogged with debris then you reduce the overall efficiency of the cooler. So that design is better installed on a newer vehicle. My goal is slightly longer life of my tranny, not the absolute best in class cooling of fluid.
OEMs have been putting plate and fin coolers on their cars with towing packages for quite some time. I wouldn't worry about them.
 
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