This. To me, it ultimately depends on the labor required for redo.
Engine out timing cover? I’ll wait 24 hrs. Lower oil pan or valve cover that takes 2 hr to redo? If the squeeze out feels hard after a few hours, I’ll let it go.
Are there any professional mechanics that actually let RTV cure for 24 hours?
- Thread starter ripcord
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Engine out timing cover? I’ll wait 24 hrs. Lower oil pan or valve cover that takes 2 hr to redo? If the squeeze out feels hard after a few hours, I’ll let it go.
When was elementary school age, I watched my father cut a gasket with a ball peen hammer.
Getting back to gaskets. I usually use a tacky compound to stick the gasket to the component to keep it from sliding around while trying to get the bolts started. I never bother to put it on both sides.
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I think this is similar to Indian Head? I didn't realize Indian Head was a Permatex product. I keep waiting for the Woke Brigade to attack it, surely only Nazis use this product????
Over the years Permatex has purchased companies and kept their brand name whole, resulting with many products that overlap in function but have a following ( old mechanics, both amateur and professional) that purchase the product.
Just completed a very low-budget oil pan replacement for my next door neighbor. I used a Doorman oil pan and a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey that has been opened (but well-sealed) for 7 months. 
A 3mm bead of Toyota FIPG 103 will result in a lot of squeeze out, but that does not appear to be the case with Ultra Grey. This stuff must be very thin. I hope it cures in a reasonable amount of time since I was still able to wipe away excess after 30 mins.
And yes, my hands were extra shaky today:
But hey, if it weeps....it isn't the end of the world. The timing cover is already leaking on this engine and the job was free!
A 3mm bead of Toyota FIPG 103 will result in a lot of squeeze out, but that does not appear to be the case with Ultra Grey. This stuff must be very thin. I hope it cures in a reasonable amount of time since I was still able to wipe away excess after 30 mins.
And yes, my hands were extra shaky today:
But hey, if it weeps....it isn't the end of the world. The timing cover is already leaking on this engine and the job was free!
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The Budweiser shakes: too much Bud = shakes. Too little Bud = shakes. It happens (shrug)Just completed a very low-budget oil pan replacement for my next door neighbor. I used a Doorman oil pan and a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey that has been opened (but well-sealed) for 7 months.
A 3mm bead of Toyota FIPG 103 will result in a lot of squeeze out, but that does not appear to be the case with Ultra Grey. This stuff must be very thin. I hope it cures in a reasonable amount of time since I was still able to wipe away excess after 30 mins.
View attachment 185966
And yes, my hands were extra shaky today:
View attachment 185967
View attachment 185968
But hey, if it weeps....it isn't the end of the world. The timing cover is already leaking on this engine and the job was free!
have you watched "Project Farm" on the subject of sealants
No tube squeezer tool?
Those tools can sometimes puncture the tube. IME, 50/50 chance.
You're right, I've had that happen squeezing tubes by hand. I keep my opened tubes of RTV in the freezer. That will slow down, if not stop, the eventual curing of the product in the tube.
Watched it. I think it was well done. The Mopar RTV is super strong. I don’t know what to think about that. I think if you did a oil pan with the Mopar product it will never come off again. LOL. Also the pressure gizmo tester was interesting but not sure if you really need to hold those kind of pressures. Mopar was in the lead.have you watched "Project Farm" on the subject of sealants
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Just completed a very low-budget oil pan replacement for my next door neighbor. I used a Doorman oil pan and a tube of Permatex Ultra Grey that has been opened (but well-sealed) for 7 months.
A 3mm bead of Toyota FIPG 103 will result in a lot of squeeze out, but that does not appear to be the case with Ultra Grey. This stuff must be very thin. I hope it cures in a reasonable amount of time since I was still able to wipe away excess after 30 mins.
View attachment 185966
And yes, my hands were extra shaky today:
View attachment 185967
View attachment 185968
But hey, if it weeps....it isn't the end of the world. The timing cover is already leaking on this engine and the job was free!
Looks like it dried just fine after 24 hrs. I have learned to run a small bead of the product being applied onto a piece of cardboard….and I always check the bead before performing the final refill.
Ultra Grey seems a bit more brittle than I expected and it also cleans off my hands way too easily (compared to Toyota fipg).
I'm surprised nobody mentioned anaerobic gasket maker.
That stuff is eally good for applications if surfaces are even, with no big gaps.
It cures when in contact with the metal, doesn't need air to cure.
That stuff is eally good for applications if surfaces are even, with no big gaps.
It cures when in contact with the metal, doesn't need air to cure.
Unless the OEM recommendation is anaerobic, it is very likely that the gap fill requirements require RTV.
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