Are power torque (O'Reilly) torx bits impact rated?

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Jan 14, 2017
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Long story short I'm replacing my buddies front rotors.

I need a t40 torx bit to get the rotors off. Are power torque torx bits impact rated?
 
I doubt it. All of my impact sockets are made of chrome moly (CrMO) while my non-impact sockets are chrome vanadium (CrV). The Power Torx is listed as CR-V material so with that tidbit of knowledge and just guessing I'd say they aren't.
 
There are different levels of Cr-Mo and Cr-V
The cheapest impact sockets at HF are Cr-V
the decent ones are all Cr-Mo

So while they could technically be impact rated.. I doubt the durability.
 
Given that I'm only using it once is it safe to buy a cheap tekton t40 black oxide finish sockets?
 
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Looks like I'll be making a trip to HF for a chrome moly set of torx bits.
 
Give those screws a few hard whacks (through the bit) and some penetrating oil before you attempt removing them. In fact I have had luck whaling on the back of the rotor with a sledgehammer, while the dumb screws were still in place, to stretch them a little and help them release.

Most torx bits you can buy for under a hundo will turn into butter when you try to get these screws.

I would not put more than 50 ft-lbs of breakaway torque into these things. They're that terrible.
 
Rule of thumb - if the package doesn't say impact then they aren't. Second tip , 99% of the time if they are chrome they are not impact.

With that said, if you are using them to remove the small screw that holds the rotor on - they will be fine. I use them and the impact is not hard to the bit.
 
Rule of thumb - if the package doesn't say impact then they aren't. Second tip , 99% of the time if they are chrome they are not impact.

With that said, if you are using them to remove the small screw that holds the rotor on - they will be fine. I use them and the impact is not hard to the bit.
You must not live in the rust belt. If I had a dollar for every time I broke a bit, stripped the screw head, and had to chisel it out with an air hammer I'd be rich.
 
You must not live in the rust belt. If I had a dollar for every time I broke a bit, stripped the screw head, and had to chisel it out with an air hammer I'd be rich.
Fortunately I do not anymore. I used to live in MD so I am well aware of your struggles lol - being in Texas now every car is dream to work on and we still get an occasional rust belt car but I do not envy you at all.
 
Use the socket with a hand impact and not an electric impact. Better yet, lock the rotor to the bracket using a screwdriver and remove the rotor bolt using a ratchet.

None of the torx bits last very long if you use them exclusively with an electric impact.
 
Cancel those plans. My buddies mechanic originally quoted 210, I quote 125 and then the mechanic steals it away for 110.
 
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