Are drilled and slotted rotors worth the cost?

Very small if executed right. Mercedes had drilled rotors to help water evacuation. But carefully designed and of highest quality (very important if hole is drilled through rotors). Slots help with excessive gas that pads create during hardcore usage.
Depending on manufacturer, it might be dangerous. If they are not carefully designed and best materials used, avoid it. Or go dimpled rotors if you just want looks.
^^^^^THAT !!! Good drilled/slotted rotors are NOT cheap! Their purpose is to dissipate heat.
If not done properly will weaken the rotor. Some manufacturer do it as "cosmetic" just to raise the price and no real R&D.
In your case to give you a proper answer one would need the type of terrain over which you pull, weight of trailer, speed and
how often you pull. For street use IF always in stop & go traffic with sudden stops there may be a slight advantage IF this is prolonged.
Otherwise keep the OEM, just don't go cheap on Pads!
 
For the track YES. For regular use no. Found the slotted rotors the best compromise option as avoids the cheese grater effect of the drilled rotors on the pads. Maybe I have missed it, but have not seen mention of cryogenically treated rotors. These extend life of the rotors significantly without compromising performance. My recommendation is to avoid drilled or slotted for regular road use. Available at TireRack among other suppliers. Absolutely no affiliation. Just real-world experience, both road and track.
 
The rotors with better cooling has better cooling, very surprising. Who would have thought that.
Now make the stock rotors 10% larger and heavier at basically the same cost and do it again.
It's more than just better cooling design. The lighter two-piece design itself allows for better heat dissipation.
 
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My buddies AMG63

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The video you linked did not contain any two piece design.
Yeah great buddy, keep telling yourself that. Won't change any laws in physics.
Apologies I though it was also a two-piece in the video. Serious question. Have you ever seen a two-piece warp on the track?
 
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There was an SMA brake job video some months back where Eric O mentioned how incredibly long a set of drilled/slotted rotors lasted on Mrs O's minivan, where she would wear out a conventional set 2-3x as fast. It may have been Power Stop or Centric. I couldn't find the video. He's not a fan of drilled/slotted, but tried them for some reason on her Kia Sedona.

There's just too many variables that effect how well a set of brakes perform and last, it's about impossible to get repeatable results for your daily driver.
 
I too have run some of the Powerstop "truck and tow" kits and echo the sentiments that they're "fine".

Not sure there were any benefits and thus I've concluded it's mostly a gimmick.

I also agree the Amazon bling manufacturers like Detroit Axle do it just so they can charge more.

Mazda used a lightly slotted rotor on some of the CX9s as OEM. I imagine there was something to it. It was not gaudy and over the top like aftermarket, and no drilled holes.
 
I too have run some of the Powerstop "truck and tow" kits and echo the sentiments that they're "fine".

Not sure there were any benefits and thus I've concluded it's mostly a gimmick.

I also agree the Amazon bling manufacturers like Detroit Axle do it just so they can charge more.

Mazda used a lightly slotted rotor on some of the CX9s as OEM. I imagine there was something to it. It was not gaudy and over the top like aftermarket, and no drilled holes.
Gas evacuation.
If towing, I would be really afraid of having drilled rotors unless OE or from some established manufacturer like ATE, Brembo, TMD, Akebono, Pagid.
 
MB does this for last 30yrs. It helps with water dissipation.
But, this is MB and rotors are made by ATE or Brembo, depending on the model. Different than some cheap aftermarket stuff.
Serious question. When I need to replace them on my E350 AMG pkg, what would be the best brand to use other than oem?
 
I replaced the back brakes on my wife's Atlas with the Powerstop kit (pads and drilled/slotted rotors) because the stock ones wore out at about 40k miles. I picked them because of the corrosion coating (zinc?) and price was reasonable.

No noticeable braking performance difference (better or worse) but the rotors are clean and straight with no warping, and the pads have lasted much longer than stock under difficult driving conditions (my wife is a very aggressive driver) for 60k miles. I'll replace this summer with the same.

The fronts will get the VW rotors and maybe EBC or stock pads. Again, this car has seen extreme city driving by someone who thinks she's a race car driver in training. I'm consistently impressed by the durability and performance of this car and the stock front brakes and Powerstop rears.
 
The kid managed to get through my Raybestos front rotors and pads in 29k miles. Loved the feel of the combo but I'm at crossroads. I have the feeling she's feathering the brake pedal while driving.
 
The kid managed to get through my Raybestos front rotors and pads in 29k miles. Loved the feel of the combo but I'm at crossroads. I have the feeling she's feathering the brake pedal while driving.

Hmm, bad combo if the pads wear out the rotors in just one set. Should be able to wear out two sets of pads per rotor, in most cases no?
Look at the MPG's?
 
Mpgs are fine.
When I think of it - not sure what is worn, I haven't looked much at them yet. It's just that they started vibrating at end of braking process, big time.
 
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