Now I'm not a chain saw engineer, but why don't they put the cutting piece on EVERY link in the chain instead of just every 4th one? Seems it would cut a lot better.
Are chain saw blades directional?
- Thread starter atikovi
- Start date
Probably need a lot bigger motors.
I made the same mistake a few weeks ago . I also turned the bar over to equalize wear and got in a hurry and had a brain fart .
For the same reason that the link prior to the cutter (or chisel) is raised up - to limit the “bite” of each chisel.
If the depth of “bite” of the chisel tooth is too great, the saw will be trying to remove too much wood with each link, and it will either bog or jam.
A properly sharpened chain removes a lot of wood.
Four times the cutting teeth will not yield four times the rate of cutting, the saw will simply be unable to handle it, the chain will bite too much, and yank the saw out of your hands, or kill the motor.
Each chisel tooth is exactly that, a tiny chisel. If you use a hand chisel (yes, they are directional, too, and the sharp edge with the bevel cuts a whole lot better than the handle, bevel forward applies here, too) you know that digging too deep when paring doesn’t work. Each cut has to be shallow and consistent for the best result.
The whole chain is designed to keep the cut of those individual chisel teeth, shallow, and consistent.
If you want to improve the rate of cut, make sure they’re sharp.
Or get a bigger saw.
One other point on chainsaw chains - sharpening them is an art. As you remove a bit of metal from each chisel tooth, you have to keep the angle of the chisel consistent and the depth of the chisel consistent with the other chisel teeth. You accomplish the latter by removing just a bit of metal off the top of the proceeding tooth, so that the “bite” remains consistent.
In your case, you are better off taking your chains to a pro and paying him a couple bucks to do the job, or just buying new chains. Oregon makes good chains.
Knowing how to sharpen a chain requires knowing how they work. And it’s pretty clear you don’t.
In your case, you are better off taking your chains to a pro and paying him a couple bucks to do the job, or just buying new chains. Oregon makes good chains.
Knowing how to sharpen a chain requires knowing how they work. And it’s pretty clear you don’t.
Pole saws don't usually have the larger engine of a chainsaw. Takes a lot more power to pull more cutters. You don't want a polesaw to be grabby, especially on small limbs.
There are "skip" chains that intentionally have even fewer cutting teeth than a standard chain. These are occasionally used when someone wants a longer bar than stock but doesn't want to replace the whole saw with one with a larger engine.
The tension in the chain provided by engine torque is measured in single pounds to tens of pounds on a large saw. Otherwise the saw would pull away from the operator and be impossible to control. The concept is that it moves at high speed, removing many small chips of wood rapidly.
The tension in the chain provided by engine torque is measured in single pounds to tens of pounds on a large saw. Otherwise the saw would pull away from the operator and be impossible to control. The concept is that it moves at high speed, removing many small chips of wood rapidly.
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AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
This comes to mind regarding chainsaws:
Be safe.
Be safe.
This thread reminds me that I've got an old late 90s era Craftsman chainsaw in my shed that I need to dust off and get running. Need to cut up a small cedar at my property's edge that fell in a recent storm.
Or increase the RPM of the chain.
BTW thanks for taking the time to write that so well.
I'm going to cut and paste that for later reference in other forums (keeping you as the source).
Although I learned this info as a youngster on the farm, I'm a lousy writer and you did a nice job here.
You'd need 4x the power and 4x the fuel, and would have a hard time not being taken for a ride.
Engine size, fuel capacity, bar oil capacity, bar length, chain metrics, case material, exhaust tuning are all a balanced package - mess with one, and the whole often suffers.
I just picked up the smallest lightest Stihl, the last of the two strokes. The top handle is designed for single handed use on a ladder.
It's a little gem.
The chain type and measurements may help understand the subject matter better.
Stihl makes a great saw. Right here in Virginia Beach, in fact.
I try to keep my Husqvarna carefully hidden from the neighbors….
I try to keep my Husqvarna carefully hidden from the neighbors….
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This is probably a 15 or 20 year old model that comes in quite handy the few times I need to cut branches that are too big for a pole lopper and as a small saw without the pole attachment. The only thing that bugs me is the chain oiler. You fill the tank with a few ounces of oil, and after you put the saw away you have a puddle of oil underneath the next day. Have been storing it an a cat litter box, but still annoying. Do newer saws still have this issue?
Karma gods please forgive me. Having poked fun at atikovi in earlier replies, I confess that while changing rear tractor tire widths decades ago, I remounted the tires (chevron treads) backwards. Grrrrrr.
I hand sharpen my chains, but the learning curve is very long. Also the box store chains are softer than pro chains and need filing more often.
Hitting the ground/dirt for even an instant with the chain spinning, dulls the cutters.
I touch up my chains with a file, every other tank of fuel.
If they get too dull, or you hit something solid, off they go to the shop for sharpening
I have thought about getting a good pro sharpener, but Im not sure it's worth it for what I cut.
As @Astro14 and @spasm3 point out, there is a right way and a wrong way to sharpen a saw. It takes a little practice. You probably need a 5/32" chain saw file.
It is easier if you put the saw bar in your bench vise; I just file them straddling the saw on the ground.
Examine the location of the tooth cutting edge and especially the angle of the cutting edge. You want to follow that. Put the file in the tooth to get the proper feel....
Take your time, give each tooth 2 or 3 careful pushes and twist the file. Just take off enough to evenly clean the cutting edge of the tooth. Remember, push only! Don't expect to get it as sharp as a new chain; that's hard to do.
I love putting a good edge on a chain! Grease the tip and always oil up the saw before use. You will know the chain is sharp if it throws chips; powder is from dull teeth.
And remember, your saw is not a ditch digger or a post hole digger; do not cut in the dirt unless you wanna sharpen your saw again.
It is easier if you put the saw bar in your bench vise; I just file them straddling the saw on the ground.
Examine the location of the tooth cutting edge and especially the angle of the cutting edge. You want to follow that. Put the file in the tooth to get the proper feel....
Take your time, give each tooth 2 or 3 careful pushes and twist the file. Just take off enough to evenly clean the cutting edge of the tooth. Remember, push only! Don't expect to get it as sharp as a new chain; that's hard to do.
I love putting a good edge on a chain! Grease the tip and always oil up the saw before use. You will know the chain is sharp if it throws chips; powder is from dull teeth.
And remember, your saw is not a ditch digger or a post hole digger; do not cut in the dirt unless you wanna sharpen your saw again.
