Anyone service an Automatic Tranny with no dip...
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Originally Posted By: dkryan
In case I missed the answer to this question in the previous posts:
Why did the OEMs decide to seal the transmissions in the first place, thereby madating something akin to the "hokie-pokie" to check the friggin' fluid level?
Probably to save $3 on a vehicle, and to try and force the DIY guy back to the dealer to check the level and service the transmission if needed.
In case I missed the answer to this question in the previous posts:
Why did the OEMs decide to seal the transmissions in the first place, thereby madating something akin to the "hokie-pokie" to check the friggin' fluid level?
Probably to save $3 on a vehicle, and to try and force the DIY guy back to the dealer to check the level and service the transmission if needed.
Thanks, I plan on checking the cold level a few times over a few days to confirm if that is the same for my Jeep as well. If not I'll calibrate after a drive, a 2 minute idle, running it through the gears with my foot on the brake, and a pan temp reading.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Thanks, I plan on checking the cold level a few times over a few days to confirm if that is the same for my Jeep as well. If not I'll calibrate after a drive, a 2 minute idle, running it through the gears with my foot on the brake, and a pan temp reading.
I have checked the level of my transmission fluid on my 2004 Mercury Marauder for the last 3 mornings and the level has been the same.
This is after I have driven the car for the last 3 days, parked the car, and then checked the level about 12 hours later. HTS
Thanks, I plan on checking the cold level a few times over a few days to confirm if that is the same for my Jeep as well. If not I'll calibrate after a drive, a 2 minute idle, running it through the gears with my foot on the brake, and a pan temp reading.
I have checked the level of my transmission fluid on my 2004 Mercury Marauder for the last 3 mornings and the level has been the same.
This is after I have driven the car for the last 3 days, parked the car, and then checked the level about 12 hours later. HTS
Thanks, I plan on doing the same with my Aerostar. The only thing that might matter is if fluid does remains in the "circuits" if the car was in R or D before being placed in park and turned off. It might matter, but is easy enough to check out by placing the car in R, then P and turn it off, and the next time placing it D, then P and turning it off.
One thing to keep in mind which was lightly touched on earlier.
Usually when you check the transmission level hot, you do it with the engine running and having just run the transmission through all of its positions. Maybe you are trying to get a reading of what the level should be with everything at pressure and temperature.
It still seems though that if you take out 4 quarts and put in 4 quarts, the level will be the same.
Usually when you check the transmission level hot, you do it with the engine running and having just run the transmission through all of its positions. Maybe you are trying to get a reading of what the level should be with everything at pressure and temperature.
It still seems though that if you take out 4 quarts and put in 4 quarts, the level will be the same.
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
It still seems though that if you take out 4 quarts and put in 4 quarts, the level will be the same.
Exactly! I'm just looking for a cold ref point, once I've paid someone to take a hot reading to determine if the factory filled it correctly from the beginning. I might even do my own hot ref mark as I mentioned somewhere above.
CP30 and I spoke, he is positive his hot fluid level is correct. He's checked the cold level which is different than the hot level, but has been exactly the same 3 mornings in a row after having driven his car the night before. I'm pretty confident my method will work without the need for an expensive dipstick and a chart.
The transmission in my 08 Liberty had a dipstick in 2006, and is the identical unit in 2008 IIRC. I doubt much changed, but I'm not going to rely on the stick from the 06, unless by luck it is correct after I confirm the FF was correct.
Now all I have to do is figure out how to get that stupid yellow plug out.
It still seems though that if you take out 4 quarts and put in 4 quarts, the level will be the same.
Exactly! I'm just looking for a cold ref point, once I've paid someone to take a hot reading to determine if the factory filled it correctly from the beginning. I might even do my own hot ref mark as I mentioned somewhere above.
CP30 and I spoke, he is positive his hot fluid level is correct. He's checked the cold level which is different than the hot level, but has been exactly the same 3 mornings in a row after having driven his car the night before. I'm pretty confident my method will work without the need for an expensive dipstick and a chart.
The transmission in my 08 Liberty had a dipstick in 2006, and is the identical unit in 2008 IIRC. I doubt much changed, but I'm not going to rely on the stick from the 06, unless by luck it is correct after I confirm the FF was correct.
Now all I have to do is figure out how to get that stupid yellow plug out.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I'd be interested in knowing how this works out for you, report back if you can!
Thanks
Well this was my Sunday project, and it worked out fine so far. I believe the Liberty uses the 42RLE 4 speed. My 4.0L Nitro has the NAG1 5 speed. The 3.7L Nitros have the 42RLE. I'm sure the same practice can be applied to either transmission. I did a full write up on a Nitro forum.
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=32753
I'd be interested in knowing how this works out for you, report back if you can!
Thanks
Well this was my Sunday project, and it worked out fine so far. I believe the Liberty uses the 42RLE 4 speed. My 4.0L Nitro has the NAG1 5 speed. The 3.7L Nitros have the 42RLE. I'm sure the same practice can be applied to either transmission. I did a full write up on a Nitro forum.
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=32753
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Thanks for the update and the link! I'm pretty confident in the cold fluid level. I actually checked a Ford product, and another friend checked is two newer Ford products and the cold level is the same every morning.
I had two other automotive projects going on so this took the back burner. I will be calibrating my stick cold. I can understand that the hot level will vary, and I'm pretty certain the cold level will always be the same. Truth is if that is in fact the case with my Jeep, for my purposes that is all that matters.
How does that little plug in the dipstick tube come out?
Thanks!
I had two other automotive projects going on so this took the back burner. I will be calibrating my stick cold. I can understand that the hot level will vary, and I'm pretty certain the cold level will always be the same. Truth is if that is in fact the case with my Jeep, for my purposes that is all that matters.
How does that little plug in the dipstick tube come out?
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
How does that little plug in the dipstick tube come out?
On my 07 Nitro you just turn the plug a 1/2 turn ccw, then pull out. It's just REALLY tight. The first time I actually forced it out, but there were two detents in the top of the tube for the grooves to unscrew the plug.
How does that little plug in the dipstick tube come out?
On my 07 Nitro you just turn the plug a 1/2 turn ccw, then pull out. It's just REALLY tight. The first time I actually forced it out, but there were two detents in the top of the tube for the grooves to unscrew the plug.
Thanks!
If it counts, I serviced my parent's Prius and it has no dipstick on its hybrid transaxle. Drains and fills like a regular gearbox with no temp checking or overflow procedure.
FWIW, the P-L/1 and back procedure is to fill the valve body and purge air out of the hydraulic circuit when you check fluid. Hondas are the exception to the rule, you check those within 60 seconds of shutting off the engine on a warm transmission.
FWIW, the P-L/1 and back procedure is to fill the valve body and purge air out of the hydraulic circuit when you check fluid. Hondas are the exception to the rule, you check those within 60 seconds of shutting off the engine on a warm transmission.
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Originally Posted By: cbear
I did a full write up on a Nitro forum.
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=32753
A moderator moved it to a different section that requires a login. I can repost over here if anyone wants, but it's was just a drop and fill, them added a drain plug kit.
I did a full write up on a Nitro forum.
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=32753
A moderator moved it to a different section that requires a login. I can repost over here if anyone wants, but it's was just a drop and fill, them added a drain plug kit.
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Note that if you are servicing a NAG1 trans you will want to drive it and then check the level the next day when cold.
Just pouring in fluid will mislead you without operating it first.
But I must agree that if you capture every drop, measure it carefully, and then put that same amount back in it seems you cannot fail!
Just pouring in fluid will mislead you without operating it first.
But I must agree that if you capture every drop, measure it carefully, and then put that same amount back in it seems you cannot fail!
Good point Steve, or at least start it up let it idle a bit and run it through the gears. Then check the following morning cold.
Cbear it might be interesting to some members who have these sealed units to see your write up. It was helpful to me.
Cbear it might be interesting to some members who have these sealed units to see your write up. It was helpful to me.
I have the NAG1/Wa580 behind my 3.7 in a grand chero 2008. I can suck out 3.8 qts of fluid from the tube, if that helps anyway. I added just under 4 qts to it, and it is fine.
4 qts in the pan is my "reference" for periodic fluid drain/fills.
4 qts in the pan is my "reference" for periodic fluid drain/fills.
I've been fooling around with this for a few days now, using the 06 Liberty dipstick. I have established both hot and cold levels. Then I took it to a transmission shop to confirm the factory fill was correct. I'm GTG now!
In the very near future I will extract the contents of the pan, and refill with fresh fluid, that will be at ~ 15,000 miles. At 30K I'll do a pan drop, and fluid extraction to get everything out of the system. Unless I change my mind and reverse the order.
Thanks for all the replies.
In the very near future I will extract the contents of the pan, and refill with fresh fluid, that will be at ~ 15,000 miles. At 30K I'll do a pan drop, and fluid extraction to get everything out of the system. Unless I change my mind and reverse the order.
Thanks for all the replies.
demar--
what atf are you considering. I would have gone amsoil but stuck with ATF+4 for warranty. i think valvoline is oem. I used castrol ATF+4 and mine has been slightly improved... less sluggish when cold. possibly mpg increase but I did the rear end at the same time-- together they resulted in a consistent 1.5 mpg jump, but don't know which was or was most beneficial. The castrol fluid was closest to amsoil in viscosity, both relatively thin compared to others.
what atf are you considering. I would have gone amsoil but stuck with ATF+4 for warranty. i think valvoline is oem. I used castrol ATF+4 and mine has been slightly improved... less sluggish when cold. possibly mpg increase but I did the rear end at the same time-- together they resulted in a consistent 1.5 mpg jump, but don't know which was or was most beneficial. The castrol fluid was closest to amsoil in viscosity, both relatively thin compared to others.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Cbear it might be interesting to some members who have these sealed units to see your write up. It was helpful to me.
I reposted it here.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/my-sealed-nag1-fluid-change.141904/
Cbear it might be interesting to some members who have these sealed units to see your write up. It was helpful to me.
I reposted it here.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/my-sealed-nag1-fluid-change.141904/
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