Anyone have any input on MOS2 Lubro Moly?

windnsea00 · May 9, 2006

I searched but got many mixed results. Some people I know run this Lubro Moly MOS2 Antifriction oil in engines with some high miles behind them with what I would imagine positive results. http://www.liquimoly.de/web/lmhomeus.nsf/pages/index_produkte (click "engine oils 4-stroke" on top of page). This oil is interesting since it's gray in appearance but I'm curious if anyone here has any input about it.

I may be acquiring a `97 318ti (M44) for my brother (I had a `95 for a period of time) and it crossed my mind to run this oil since my local euro parts store sells all the Lubro Moly oils. Either that or just Delo 15w40, he's a easy driver so it's hard to beat the value of that oil for 5k oil changes rather than paying much more for synthetic in this particular case and those engines have a tendency to leak over 100k miles in various places.

[ May 10, 2006, 03:28 AM: Message edited by: windnsea00 ]

ccdhowell · May 9, 2006

I use Lubro Moly oils and lubricants in all things in my Land Rover, engine, transmission, diffs and t-case. Never put the antifriction oil in mine thou, only the full synth stuff. It seems to be really good, not outstanding, but real solid in the typical German way, i.e. no felt gains, but smooth and quiet all-round.

I did add some of the MOS2 antifriction additive to my mothers 4.6L Mercury last oil change. I don't do UOAs on her car so I won't be able to document any change, but the engine did seems smoother with it in there.

Go ahead a try the Lubro Moly, its good stuff.

moribundman · May 10, 2006

Yes, I use CeraTec in my current fill with Red Line 5W-30. I don't know if the CeraTec is doing anything.

dailydriver · May 10, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by moribundman:
Yes, I use CeraTec in my current fill with Red Line 5W-30. I don't know if the CeraTec is doing anything.

Given the whole high ester content controversy of RL(that the esters "compete" with any/all AW/EP/etc. additives for surface contact), do you think it had a "fighting chance"??

GMorg · May 10, 2006

Why are MolyDiSulfide and boron nitride considered acceptible as solid additives to oil but teflon is not?

Even if these solids were small enough to navigate bearings and filters, wouldn't they still serve to "sand blast" at sites of high oil flow rates?

dailydriver · May 10, 2006

Anyone try LM's Cera Tec yet?? (I know this should be in the additives forum, but it got no responses there.)

bruce381 · May 10, 2006

teflon will not wet or stick to a oily surface and has shown no lube advantage in a engine.
the majors have looked at it and discounted it long ago.
bruce

moribundman · May 10, 2006

quote:

Given the whole high ester content controversy of RL(that the esters "compete" with any/all AW/EP/etc. additives for surface contact), do you think it had a "fighting chance"??

I contacted LubroMoly and asked them about compatibility of the microceramic (boron nitride?) CeraTec additive with ester oils, and I was told there were no compatibility issues.

dailydriver · May 10, 2006

quote:

Originally posted by moribundman:

quote:

Given the whole high ester content controversy of RL(that the esters "compete" with any/all AW/EP/etc. additives for surface contact), do you think it had a "fighting chance"??

Click to expand...

I contacted LubroMoly and asked them about compatibility of the microceramic (boron nitride?) CeraTec additive with ester oils, and I was told there were no compatibility issues.

Cool, thanks. Maybe I won't wait for the switch back to Amsoil Euro to try the Cera Tec.

Tosh · May 10, 2006

In a recent thread about Moly, I was referred to rtvanderbilt, but I don't know which one to pick. Molyvan 2000?

moribundman · May 11, 2006

quote:

Cool, thanks. Maybe I won't wait for the switch back to Amsoil Euro to try the Cera Tec.

If anything, I believe the CeraTec may have increased viscosity. The engine appeared a bit less rev-willing for a few hundred miles after adding that stuff. By the way, CeraTec looks like a white/pinkish, thin yogurt. It made the fresh oil temporarily look a bit milky.

maersk · Mar 22, 2011

I've used both. First the MoS2 then switched to Boron Nitride (Ceratec). I still have MoS2 in the gearbox and power steering fluid (added it when I switched to TopTec ATF 1100).

Subjectively, the diesel 4 pots i put it in does seem to rev more freely and pull better.

Objectively, I can tell you the water temperature now never reaches 75°C (167°F), whatever the weather, except in city traffic whereas it always held at least 80°C before and, to my knowledge, adding that concoction to the crankcase is the only thing that's changed that could account for it as I've used the same oil. Then again, they did claim it would lower operating temperature.

mechtech2 · Mar 22, 2011

I would never put moly in a manual trans. What about the synchros?

But I have also noticed longer warm up times with the moly in the engine.

I am a big fan of Lubro Moly in engines.

maersk · Mar 23, 2011

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
I would never put moly in a manual trans. What about the synchros?

Yeah, I feared for them as well. However they clearly still work and work well.

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
But I have also noticed longer warm up times with the moly in the engine.

I am a big fan of Lubro Moly in engines.

Here are some pics of the cam you can see throught the oil fill hole.

The engine has seen both moly and boron nitride use and I'm pretty sure that's what the light grey stuff on the cam is.

What do you guys make of it?

123Saab · Mar 23, 2011

On a side note, Why just not use the Lubro-Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Super Motor Oil if the grade is right for you?

I know it's not cheap, just asking....

maersk · Mar 23, 2011

I have, a while ago. I used to blend that oil with Diesel Synthoil 5w40 full synth then switched to just mixing in some moly additive every OC. Last time round I decided to try the Boron Nitride (Ceratec) instead.

I use a lot of LM products in fact. Just didn't want people thinking I'm pushing them or anything.

The paste tube on the left is the gear oil MoS2 additive.

When I flushed the power steering fluid (with ATF TopTec 1100, of course

) I used some of the moly left over.

Falcon_LS · Mar 23, 2011

Originally Posted By: maersk
I still have MoS2 in the gearbox and power steering fluid (added it when I switched to TopTec ATF 1100).

I'm confused. Did you add MoS2 to your power steering system? Liqui-Moly doesn't endorse the use of MoS2 in automatic transmissions or power steering systems.

maersk · Mar 23, 2011

Oops...

Wait, does not endorsing mean they don't recommend against, either?

Falcon_LS · Mar 23, 2011

They mean it shouldn't be used. MoS2 Anti-Friction Treatment is for use in the engine only. So it shouldn't be used elsewhere, including wet clutch applications.

I would flush it out and refill with either TopTec 1100 or TopTec 1200.

maersk · Mar 23, 2011

I don't have wet clutches, I drive a standard trans. The molly I used was also from LM, a special paste specifically for gears and I've had it in there for quite some time now with no apparent ill effects. It hasn't started to grind or anything (as if the synchros were slipping), that's for sure.

As for the pwr steering, I've only just flushed it recently (a week or so). I thought it might benefit the pump or prolong its service life.

I mean, what harm could a bit of (HC)mineral oil with moly in it do that ATF doesn't already? The LM Oilguide specs ATF 1100 and that's what I used, just with an added bit of molly (about enough for 3 litres though the it only takes about 2).

How might it hurt stuff?

Anyone have any input on MOS2 Lubro Moly?

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