Anyone ever rebuild a medium hp Briggs engine?

[jsharp]

Was it worth doing?

I don't mean a "throw some rings in it and run it" rebuild but a real one - replacing the parts that need replaced, having the cylinder bored and a new piston fitted, etc.

I have a 10yo Briggs cast sleeve 12hp engine on my riding mower. The mower is beat but I just spent $200 on the deck and don't feel like sending it to junk just yet. At the same time, I don't feel like spending $400+ on a new engine.

I think I can rebuild what I have for around $200 depending on how bad it is once I get into it.

Opinions on if I should bother or should I just keep adding oil and using ether to start it. Oil and starting fluid are cheap but it's a pita and I hate things that run so poorly...

 

[Bill Kapaun]

Not advice on rebuilding, but

I had an old briggs on a tiller that blew smoke REAL BAD.
It'd foul the plug out in 10 minutes.
I went to 50 wt. oil and the hottest plug I could find. I then got about 20 minutes before it fouled the plug out.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bill Kapaun:
Not advice on rebuilding, but

I had an old briggs on a tiller that blew smoke REAL BAD.
It'd foul the plug out in 10 minutes.
I went to 50 wt. oil and the hottest plug I could find. I then got about 20 minutes before it fouled the plug out.

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Forgot to add-
I tried a cheapy overhaul, using a set of .010" oversize rings. It only helped slightly. The problem was in the very worn valve guides. Yours would probably also have to be "refurbished.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bill Kapaun:

quote:

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Originally posted by Bill Kapaun:
Not advice on rebuilding, but

I had an old briggs on a tiller that blew smoke REAL BAD.
It'd foul the plug out in 10 minutes.
I went to 50 wt. oil and the hottest plug I could find. I then got about 20 minutes before it fouled the plug out.

---

Forgot to add-
I tried a cheapy overhaul, using a set of .010" oversize rings. It only helped slightly. The problem was in the very worn valve guides. Yours would probably also have to be "refurbished.

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I'm using straight 40 weight now and the consumption is slightly better than it was. I can mow for 3 or 4 hours and only have to add 1/2 quart. Given the amount of crap blowing back though the intake with the air cleaner removed I'm sure the valve sealing is non existant and seeing the amount of smoke right after starting makes me think the valve guides are gone too. If it only had enough compression to start when cold without ether I'd be happy

I think this is what happens when you have 350+ hours on a 200 hour life engine. Actually, the EPA emissions life is all of 125 hours on this engine...

[ August 24, 2004, 09:21 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]

 

[verik1]

try www.smallenginewarehouse.com for a short block assembly of your motor. Worked for me like a charm and not much more than a few important parts to the motor.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by verik1:
try www.smallenginewarehouse.com for a short block assembly of your motor. Worked for me like a charm and not much more than a few important parts to the motor.

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I checked with them and a short block is $317 including freight. A new 13.5hp engine complete from them is $399...

 

[NThomas]

There are other things to think about if you are serious about doing this.

How old is this mower? Are parts still available? If its old enough other parts may fail soon and could cost too much! You are into the deck $200, but is it time to say "I cant do much for it anymore"

Starters can go out, ignition, carburator, transmission, electrical.

Look at it and decide if you will be money ahead in the future if you buy something new!

 

[jsharp]

The mower is a 10 year old White/MTD. I was surprised at how cheap and available parts are for it. Belts and a lot of parts are on the shelf at Walmart, the local farm stores, and the local mower shops. Anything else I've needed I've gotten in 3-4 days.

In addition to the deck parts a few weeks ago I've also replaced a couple of belts, some small parts, and the battery this year so I've spent more like $250.

I could stand spending another $200 if I can get a few more years out of it. Everything I look at new is $2000-$3000 or more though obviously they are much larger mowers than I have now...

[ August 25, 2004, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: jsharp ]

 

[goodoleboy]

I would vote for rebuild or used one.Go to ebay and look for a used unit. I dont know the in's and out's of rebuilding but how hard can it be? Its not rocket science and it can surley be done at your lesiure over the winter.

 

[Bill Kapaun]

quote:

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Originally posted by jsharp:

Originally posted by Bill Kapaun:
[qb]

Originally posted by Bill Kapaun:
[qb] Not advice on rebuilding, but

... Given the amount of crap blowing back though the intake with the air cleaner removed I'm sure the valve sealing is non existant and seeing the amount of smoke right after starting makes me think the valve guides are gone too.

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I would attribute the blowby more to compression rings not sealing.
If you want to invest in a head gasket, remove the head and see how far you can "wiggle" the valves side to side. If it's noticeable, consider the guides to be "gone".

As a side note on my old tiller. When I'd foul out the 2nd plug, it was definitely time to add oil!

I had a "set" of 4 plugs I'd clean before starting, go through them and then re-clean, repeat.....
I bought a new tiller the next Spring.

 

[Ugly3]

Run the one you have now as long as you can then go get a new one. Trying to delay the inevitable is seldom economically sound, too many variables.

Murphy ain't dead yet.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ugly3:
Run the one you have now as long as you can then go get a new one. Trying to delay the inevitable is seldom economically sound, too many variables.

Murphy ain't dead yet.

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I'm with you if the $$ is available. I'm just trying to insure it lasts until the funds are there to purchase something new that matches my needs...