Anyone else miss the regular old carbureted atv's?

Joined
Nov 29, 2009
Messages
9,514
I think these fuel injected ones are too complicated. Detects one little misfire and it throws a check engine light, didn't even have a check engine light to be on with the carbureted engines back in the day. Like my pos polaris rzr. The thing as 180hrs on it and like 1600 miles, what could possibly be wrong with it and it always has a check engine light on for a misfire. Sounds like it's a computer issue that needs to be updated, but still. It shouldn't even happen. Now it doesn't even want to start when cold for some reason unless you're giving pressing the gas pedal down some and cranking at the same time. Then it runs kind of rough for the first 30 seconds or so and then fine after that as long as it doesn't cool back down again. Not really sure if it's like a dead cold only type of restart problem or what. My point is you wouldn't have this kind of issues with a carbureted engine. Just pull the choke and start it. Unless it sits up for 6 months and you let the carb get gunked up.
 
If you lived where I live you wouldn't want a carburetor on anything. What is the way to check for codes on your Rzr?
 
If you lived where I live you wouldn't want a carburetor on anything. What is the way to check for codes on your Rzr?
Yeah it's the common 65590 code. They call it a ghost code because it still runs fine even with the code present. This whole needing to press the gas pedal is a more recent issue. I've always been a yamaha guy, polaris makes junk imo. a quick search on the internet shows this.
 
Last edited:
Nope.. Headed west a couple years ago for an Elk hunt. Some of my buddies had carb atvs, I had a fuel injection atv. Mine just powered on above 5,000 feet and above theirs were missing and chugging because the carbs could not adjust to the altitude.
 
Nope.. Headed west a couple years ago for an Elk hunt. Some of my buddies had carb atvs, I had a fuel injection atv. Mine just powered on above 5,000 feet and above theirs were missing and chugging because the carbs could not adjust to the altitude.
Well usually it's just a screw that needs to be turned either in or out. Probably turned in at that altitude
 
I have a polaris sportsman 500 that is carbureted and my brother has one that is a few years newer that is EFI. His runs better and is way less finicky when cold.
 
Fuel injection wins as far as easier starting, fuel economy, etc, but good luck if you need to work on it. Everything is packed so tightly into those new ATVs and side by sides, the labor rates are quite high.
 
Wonder if there is a fuel pressure regulator on this thing. The spring inside loses tension after a few years basically no longer restricting fuel and needs to be replaced. Had that happen on my boat. It was getting the full 80psi the pump could produce and was only supposed to be between 54-60psi
 
https://powersports.honda.com/atv/recutility/fourtrax-recon/fourtrax-recon-es

I have two of these, 2014 models, the 2024 models are nearly identical......carbed.

IMHO, Hondas are the gold standard in motorcycles and ATVs. My 1984 three wheeler, is mechanically similar to the new 2024 Recon, they are that tough.
Yeah honda rarely makes a design change. The Hondas need bigger tires from the factory. I looked at a honda foreman and was going to pull the trigger it until I showed up at the dealer and noticed it was the smallest of all the atvs on the floor and looked like something made for a 10 year old. It's the only foot shift atv made so I wasn't interested anymore. These cvt transmissions are boring to drive. Just like my side by side. I find it boring. Need to run through the gears and feel the machine.
 
Last edited:
Yeah honda rarely makes a design change.
I have a honda common service manual, that covers from 1981 to 2014.......There are some differences of course, most are having to do with the use of plastic instead of steel, like the battery trays and fuel tank. I think they are improvements. Other than replacing a carb due to bad gas, I have had not one issue, other than the common hard starting.
 
I have a honda common service manual, that covers from 1981 to 2014.......There are some differences of course, most are having to do with the use of plastic instead of steel, like the battery trays and fuel tank. I think they are improvements. Other than replacing a carb due to bad gas, I have had not one issue, other than the common hard starting.
That was my other complaint. The plastic fenders were already all scratched up from people getting on and off at the dealer. It just looked like cheap junk that was going to fade out in a year.
 
That was my other complaint. The plastic fenders were already all scratched up from people getting on and off at the dealer. It just looked like cheap junk that was going to fade out in a year.
Mine have been excellent. They are green, and when washed, they look used, but not faded. I think they are cheap in cost, but not cheap in build quality.

I was thinking on converting one of them to a 3 wheeler, with some factory forks and such, but the wife shot that down.
 
Definetly more complicated but I remember my Suzuki 750 with dual carbs was durable and needed little work. I never had any issues but a friend sure did. Jap carbs for there were pricey even in 08/10 and I sure didn't enjoy helping him install new ones. I lean toward to the FI models.
 
I have been wanting one with fuel injection because my Honda 500 (carb) takes forever to warm up. It does start with the choke on but you have to keep the choke full on for about 15 minutes. Once warmed up everything is ok.
 
I have been wanting one with fuel injection because my Honda 500 (carb) takes forever to warm up. It does start with the choke on but you have to keep the choke full on for about 15 minutes. Once warmed up everything is ok.
That's odd. Sounds like it's running too lean. They take forever to warm up when they run lean. Had a weed whacker like that before i learned how to adjust it. Now there is no warm up necessary. Might want to see if it has adjustment screws.
 
More of a Polaris issue than a FI issue IMO

I’ve been slow to accept the FI taking over Motorsports but I’ve come to not only accept it but prefer it and I’m very proficient with carbs.

On the bright side the FI systems in power sports are typically very simple 1990s Japanese designs that are easy to trouble shoot once you know the what’s what and generally very reliable.

A fuel pressure gauge setup is a must have for a DIY guy in the “new” FI world.
 
More of a Polaris issue than a FI issue IMO

I’ve been slow to accept the FI taking over Motorsports but I’ve come to not only accept it but prefer it and I’m very proficient with carbs.

On the bright side the FI systems in power sports are typically very simple 1990s Japanese designs that are easy to trouble shoot once you know the what’s what and generally very reliable.

A fuel pressure gauge setup is a must have for a DIY guy in the “new” FI world.
Yeah I have one. I wonder if it uses a regular bicycle inner tube type schraeder valve to test the fuel pressure. That's what my boat has
 
Yeah I have one. I wonder if it uses a regular bicycle inner tube type schraeder valve to test the fuel pressure. That's what my boat has
Doubt it but maybe. Usually there will be quick disconnects on the fuel line from the tank if it has a in tank pump. I usually get an extra set of connectors and make an inline gauge with a couple pieces of short hose.

Something like this.
IMG_8142.webp
 
Doubt it but maybe. Usually there will be quick disconnects on the fuel line from the tank if it has a in tank pump. I usually get an extra set of connectors and make an inline gauge with a couple pieces of short hose.

Something like this.
View attachment 256241
I read it's supposed to be on the fuel rail. I haven't bothered to remove that annoying plastic cover over the yet to look though. That's quite the setup you have there. It's got those crimp on clamps and everything.
 
Back
Top Bottom