Anyone does 7K-8K OCIs on conventional?

My brother did on his Ram Hemi all the time, usually pushed it to the OCI or longer. He even went 20k once due to negligence on his part. He’s not very bright nor mechanical inclined sometimes.
 
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My 2007 T/C has faithfully consumed a quart of oil every 1000 miles ever since we bought it with 92k miles. Around 180k I started running the OCI's out to 10k and using drain oil from other misc. oil changes I do as the make up. It has always been conventional oil, and basic filters. I run the drain oil through a screen to filter out the big stuff.

I commute 100 miles a day. 70% highway. The car runs well, and doesn't smoke. Would I do this to my wife's car? No. But with over 230k miles on the odometer and living in the north east, the car will either rust away or stop at some point. I have gotten my money out of the vehicle.

Don't be afraid to run the oil out to 7, 8 or 10k. Especially if it is just a commuter. In our society and the life of ease we live it is easy to get caught up in trivial matters such as " will my engine blow up if I don't use the right brand of oil and viscosity in a certain amount of miles?"
 
My friend has an 07 civic he owned since new. OCIs were based strictly on the oil life monitor which results in OCIs of 6.5k to 9k miles which are mostly highway miles. I would say the average OCI is 7.5k. Car has mostly had oil changes done at the dealer using a honda filter and whatever conventional bulk oil they use. Car has only ever had conventional oil.

The mileage is currently at approximately 430k and engine has never been touched other than 1 set of spark plugs. Valve cover has never been off.

The engine is getting a bit tired but still runs great and has never needed oil added between changes, although when he takes off immediately after a cold start and floors it the car let's out a small amount of blue smoke. He runs it hard and actually probably abuses it some times.

430k and its starting to look like rust is going to be what kills the car, unless there is a sudden transmission or engine failure.

At this point I think he is getting tired of the car, I tell him he has brought it this far, he needs to try to hit 500k in it. Sometimes the way he treats it I sometimes believe he wouldn't mind if it blew up, lol. It's been a phenomenal vehicle for him with very little repair needed.
 

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TWO of my former employers had 2019 Kia Souls and would only do 8k changes on quick lube conventional oil changes. I warned them each that they are asking for an engine to grenade itself but both insisted it was fine, synthetic oil is a scam.
So did they say it’s a scam or it’s your statement? Hard to say
 
Two cars I bought new, a 1984 Accord, and a 1993 Corolla, went 7500 OCI's on conventional and the Accord went to 295,000 miles before a deer took it out, and the Corolla made it to 396,000 miles before I drove it to the junkyard due to rust issues all around the suspension attachment points. The amount of varnish in both and the amount of sludge (in the Accord) under the valve covers was frightening by todays standards, but both cars ran great and got good mileage right up to the end. With synthetics so cheap anymore I don't see the point of messing the conventionals at this point, but plenty of cars on the road are not using synthetics and I don't think a whole lot of them are blowing up because of it.
 
Car is a Chevy Spark. They only come with GMs latest small gas engines, which is a 1.4L NA, non DI, non turbocharged engine.
Synthethic is cheap in the states, here the cheapest "Full synthethic" (Per the bottle label) is at least $13 US or more + tax for the cheaper brands but i can get Chevron Supreme dirt cheap. Manual calls for DEXOS 0W-20 oil.
.....
I like your signature line; some quality oil choices ! Folks here are a bit groggy and didnt pick up on that :)

I am still stunned by the unprofessional advice given on here - but it is a forum of mostly laypersons - Including myself.

#1 Synthetic is not a performance spec and is mostly meaningless

#2 Ignoring the statement above, I have never liked Chevron Oils and I've tried a few including DS .
Poor performers all.
It is absolutely NOT the Havoline of yore ( with the Andretti car on the can)

#3 On high specific output/ non turbo engines** I, personally, would run a known GOOD oil like
Edge Gold bottle or Valvoline Modern engine. There is no value in inexpensive oil in this instance.

But there is no REAL harm in trying the Chevron for a short interval, formulas are always a changing with the moving performance target, maybe they 'accidentally' made a good oil.

If you note poor running and frequent stuck rings move to the "synthetic" in name only oils and give them a try.

** the nice Korean Spark 1.4L engine has the output equivalent of a 350hp 5.0L engine - that is no slouch for a smog motor!
I Drove one of these last fall -with a MT- and found it to be pretty good, lightweight semi toss-able with good torque. but not enough elbow room for me. This car has been greatly improved from it origins or even from a couple short years ago,

Now, time to confess on that Signature line Mr O.P.!

-Ken
 
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OCIs were based strictly on the oil life monitor which results in OCIs of 6.5k to 9k miles which are mostly highway miles. I would say the average OCI is 7.5k. Car has mostly had oil changes done at the dealer using a honda filter and whatever conventional bulk oil they use. Car has only ever had conventional oil.

The mileage is currently at approximately 430k and engine has never been touched

Two cars I bought new, a 1984 Accord, and a 1993 Corolla, went 7500 OCI's on conventional and the Accord went to 295,000 miles before a deer took it out, and the Corolla made it to 396,000 miles
Stop spreading lies and falsehoods ! :D
 
short OCI or time is a cheap insurance for a long haul; So i would not do long OCI; case in point, I put on one nearly 250K '08 model and the other one nearly 230K miles '02 model;

both cars are still in use to this day

so in the end, i'll stick to my formula of 3-5K OCI
 
If you're going to post links like that, at least read the articles and understand them. In both cases, the issues have nothing to do with the oil used in them by their owners.
You replied to jqgz's post where he was warning his employers about the KIA engine failures with the question "Have their engines grenaded yet ?" I replied with links to their engines grenading, which directly answered your question.

I'd bet nobody here has read more on the Theta II fiasco than I have. Yes, I understand your point regarding the supposed "origin" of the issue. But if you can't see the relationship between the failure and the oil type/flow/change interval, then I can't help you. There are plenty of Theta IIs out there under the recall that haven't had an issue. The most commonly accepted theory is the use of quality oils used for a short/reasonable duration. This has everything to do with the oil used in them by their owners.

"Read [this] aritcle and understand [it]," then reply back telling me "the issues have nothing to do with the oil used in them by their owners."
 
Nope. Synthetic is dirt cheap when on sale and can take a beating greater than any top notch conventional can. Changing 8,000 km on synthetic may be a “waste” but it’s my money, my call and gives me piece of mind and there’s no price anyone can put on that.
 
Look at the op Noobie's signature line and the oil he puropttedly "uses" Hilarious.
Man you guys are TOTALLY asleep around here.

Noobie - the guys are asleep !
 
Nope. Synthetic is dirt cheap when on sale and can take a beating greater than any top notch conventional can. Changing 8,000 km on synthetic may be a “waste” but it’s my money, my call and gives me piece of mind and there’s no price anyone can put on that.
Well, since the "Fully Synthetic" is NOT fully synthetic and the Conventional is NOT conventional in most ALL Top brand premium oils; and they both meet the same spec, same HTHS, and they are both OLM capable oils. What are you really buying into ?
 
I ran a 7.5k mile OCI with conventional (dealer oil - likely Castrol) on a 2006 Volvo S60 2.5T. After 13 years and 155K miles, it started burning a quart every 3K miles, which wasn't bad at all. Only got rid of it after a deer smashed itself headfirst into the driver's side rear door. Car always ran like a charm, though I always drove it gently and never, ever beat on it. Here's the best part - I never changed the tranny fluid either! Those Aisin's are near indestructible. Anyhow, when I did ask the dealer service department to change the tranny fluid at around 50k miles, the service manager warned me not to ever touch it. So I dodged that bullet too. Great car, sorry it had to go.
I ran my '99 S70 to 276,000+ on the original transmission fluid. Never an issue with it either.
 
Look at the op Noobie's signature line and the oil he puropttedly "uses" Hilarious.
Man you guys are TOTALLY asleep around here.

Noobie - the guys are asleep !
That is for the giggles. Got rid of the E39 years ago. The other ones are still in use in the family but they are pretty beaten up.
Just as an update, did a "break in" (As i usually do with all cars) oil change yesterday and the oil looked pretty much new.
Filled with 10W-30 as previously stated and a Fram Ultra, will see the next 5K miles. Potentially stretching it to 7K to 8K miles.
 
Worked for a government fleet that did a nation wide test that came up with the magic figure of 7,500 miles using conventional across the board on Ford, Chrysler and GM cars/trucks. We only had one internal engine problem in the seven years I was there (burnt valve on a Ford Taurus). Other than that it was the usual stuff...intake gaskets, and regular emission check engine lights.

But no, I personally would never go 7,000-8,000 miles using conventional. In fact I wouldn’t even consider buying conventional oil anymore, why would you? You can buy synthetic for $3.00 a quart without hardly even looking.
 
So did they say it’s a scam or it’s your statement? Hard to say
They said it was a scam and that conventional quick lube oil is fine. My point was I wouldn't run a Kia 8k miles on Amsoil, let alone 5w-20 conventional from Jiffy lube. Mind you one of these places was in Syracuse NY (lots of cold starts and extended idling) and I would bet you the intake on those Souls are heavily covered in soot + the crankcase is a sludgy mess.
 
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