And (according to the parts diagram) it already has a very basic oil filter. So (as already mentioned) ... clean your air intake and change the oil and filter every season (or more often for a heavily used item) and you'll be good to go without trying to make it do something of dubious results.
Anyone add an oil filter to a predator 459cc
- Thread starter oil pan 4
- Start date
The "oil filter" is a trash screen.
An it's already done.
Oil filter vs essentially no oil filter with dirty oil.
Running the wire mesh trash screen with dirty oil the engine lost 10hp in a hour.
Running the boring paper oil filter with dirty oil there was no noticable loss in power.
Running the wire mesh trash screen with dirty oil the engine lost 10hp in a hour.
Running the boring paper oil filter with dirty oil there was no noticable loss in power.
It took a while I said it would take another year to run up 10 to 15 hours and it did, a year to the day. I finally got another 15hrs on there making it 25hrs on the stump grinder break in oil.
An oil line broke and lost a enough oil so it went from full to near the low mark but I replaced the oil line and kept going with oil adding oil. So I dumped what was left, pulled a sample after about a cup of oil had already drained.
Refilled with supertech 10w30 synthetic 10k oil. Even pulled the filter off, drained it and put it back on.
The oil kinda looked like bronze metal flake paint.
I'm going to check and make sure the filter isn't clogged. My filter psi indicator only showed around 1psid across the filter when warm. It was showing nothing with a new filter when warm but the psid gauge could have broke, as it broke a 0-60psi oil pressure gauge from vibration.
I've removed both the psid gauge and pressure gauge. I'll leave test ports and check it like once a year.
An oil line broke and lost a enough oil so it went from full to near the low mark but I replaced the oil line and kept going with oil adding oil. So I dumped what was left, pulled a sample after about a cup of oil had already drained.
Refilled with supertech 10w30 synthetic 10k oil. Even pulled the filter off, drained it and put it back on.
The oil kinda looked like bronze metal flake paint.
I'm going to check and make sure the filter isn't clogged. My filter psi indicator only showed around 1psid across the filter when warm. It was showing nothing with a new filter when warm but the psid gauge could have broke, as it broke a 0-60psi oil pressure gauge from vibration.
I've removed both the psid gauge and pressure gauge. I'll leave test ports and check it like once a year.
My psid indicator ops checks good. I put 10psi on the high side and it went about half way up the green scale.
Saw the needle about an 1/8 inch into the green scale when it was hot and running and that's about 1 to 2 psi with shop air.
Saw the needle about an 1/8 inch into the green scale when it was hot and running and that's about 1 to 2 psi with shop air.
Yeah was definitely time to change the oil. The oil line broke and the oil self changed, I just drained off the little bit.
The first oil sample was pulled off the pressure line with the engine running, the second sample was drained off the bottom of the sump the next day after the oil line broke.
No metal debris with oil off the bottom of the sump is good.
I believe the method Blackstone uses doesn't detect elements present in bits larger than around 6mu.
"The oil filter worked very well" based on well everything that's not very surprising.
The first oil sample was pulled off the pressure line with the engine running, the second sample was drained off the bottom of the sump the next day after the oil line broke.
No metal debris with oil off the bottom of the sump is good.
I believe the method Blackstone uses doesn't detect elements present in bits larger than around 6mu.
"The oil filter worked very well" based on well everything that's not very surprising.
Last edited:
Adding an oil filter absolutely unequivocally helps.
Using my microscope I found if I blocked off the oil filter circuit debris starts building up in the oil.
The oil started out with the typical 0 to 2 particles in the field of view. It went from 2 or less to 3 to 10 in approximately 2 hours. By 4 to 5 hours there were at least a dozen metal particles in the oil at any given moment. By 7 to 8 hours there were 2 to 3 dozen particles visible.
None of them were bigger than a few microns, every once in a while I'd see one or 2 particles around 5 microns. Most were consistently around 1 to 2 microns.
I couldn't take it any more so I opened the valve and allowed oil to circulate through the 10 micron rated Baldwin hydraulic filter.
Within 15 minutes of filter time the number of particles visible had dropped to single digits.
Using my microscope I found if I blocked off the oil filter circuit debris starts building up in the oil.
The oil started out with the typical 0 to 2 particles in the field of view. It went from 2 or less to 3 to 10 in approximately 2 hours. By 4 to 5 hours there were at least a dozen metal particles in the oil at any given moment. By 7 to 8 hours there were 2 to 3 dozen particles visible.
None of them were bigger than a few microns, every once in a while I'd see one or 2 particles around 5 microns. Most were consistently around 1 to 2 microns.
I couldn't take it any more so I opened the valve and allowed oil to circulate through the 10 micron rated Baldwin hydraulic filter.
Within 15 minutes of filter time the number of particles visible had dropped to single digits.
Similar threads
