Anybody replace garage torsion springs?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
5,153
Location
MW
I just discovered that one of the torsion springs on our garage door is broken. Torsion springs are the ones that are above the garage door.

From research online, this looks like a somewhat dangerous job - described as similar to jacking up a car or cleaning gutters. So my guess is that this is a moderately dangerous job and can be done in a state of soberness if you know what you are doing.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has done this and can tell me where to buy the springs (apparently, there is a cartel that controls the sales to regular folk) and any tips for doing the job.
 
It is dangerous to be broken too they can explode and damage property or you.

In some states like in CA its so regulated that in areas you must be a liscensed garage door mechanic to purchase the part.

If you attempt it wear eye protection. Good eye protection.
 
Does your door have one or two springs? Yes this is a very dangerous job! You have to wind that spring up a certain number of times. I have seen guys do this on the job before, they have rods they use to wind the spring up. One guy missed the hole and the spring snaped the rod out nearly knocked him off the ladder, he was shacking like a leaf (this guy was a professional installer) took him about 15 mins to get back up on that ladder. Leave it to a pro! A lot overhead door company's offer a " lifetime replacement" on those springs. I am a trim carpenter by trade i do all my own electrical, plumbing,framing, drywall,but i will not mess w/ those springs! Just not worth it for a couple $
joe
 
You want both springs to be tensioned equally -one should not be doing all the work.
This is not rocket science, but only involves turning the end with long rods in the end cap holes to 'screw' the spring tighter. Then it is locked down with the bolts.
When the door lifts with zero weight, it is correct. Some prefer a few pounds.
 
I did it last spring. It wasn't difficult and went even quicker than I expected, but go slow and always respect the amount of energy that is in those springs when they're wound up. Make a mark on the tensioning rods to ensure that it is fully inserted before removing the other one.

I looked on E-bay for springs to figure out what size I needed, but then phoned around and bought them locally. I think it was $90 for the pair. I was able to find three or four places that sell them, and it was easier than finding extension springs for the girlfriend's old garage door a couple months later.

For tensioning rods, I cut a 3' long 7/16" rod in half, as recommended by one of the spring suppliers I called. I think a 1/2" rod may have worked better though; the rod I used had quite a bit of play in the holes (though certainly not enough that they'd ever slip out).

I watched this video before doing the job:

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-replace-your-garage-door-torsion-spring-169681/
 
Can you even get the door up with the broken spring? I know our automatic garage door opener couldn't. I witnessed the spring brake on that deal. It was like a small explosion. No way I'd even attempt working on one, and if I'm near the door when it's opening or closing, I cringe!
 
Last edited:
OK< made an appointment with a local outfit to change both the springs. $190 inclusive of all costs. Not a bad price.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Can you even get the door up with the broken spring? I know our automatic garage door opener couldn't.


I had to give it a little help for a week until I got around to changing the spring!
 
I would hire a pro. A few years back, mine broke, and I replaced it. The amount of turns on the spring control how fast the door goes up. The first try using the garage door companies recommendation for turns on the spring, the the door came up to fast and went back and broke the lights I have in the garage. I had to unwind the spring ( dangerous) and after several tries I got It right. Standing on a ladder, doing this several times I ended up with a stiff neck, which later turned out to be a herniated disk. Years later when I replaced the door I paid a pro.
 
Last edited:
I did it myself years ago. It just depends on whether you are a weenie or not.

OK, ok, just kidding. Calm down...

Before you start winding, you make a chalk line lengthwise across the entire spring. Then you wind it a prescribed number of times... so as the spring winds up you can see the chalk marks on the spring and the number of times it has been wound. You also need to know the number of times to wind... if you don't know that, then you better hire it out.

You can get it from any overhead door shop. But when you get the spring, you need to know how many times it needs to be wound. If they won't tell you that when you buy it, forget it.
 
Civic Fan: When one spring breaks, replace both springs as a set. Keeps the professional installer from having to come back in 6 months. I watched the guy do it that had the training.Friendly guy who told me some of the horror stories where he had to correct the " do it yourselfer's" screw ups. Make sure your insurance is paid up if you elect to do it yourself. FWIW-- Old tommy
 
I have legthwise springs on my three doors, and they are a snap.
From time to time, they do snap!
From what I have seen, I think I would hire out a torsion spring.
It's not so much a matter of being a weenie as it is of having enough sense not to mess with things that can seriously injure you.
Most of us are very careful with the coil springs in a vehicle, and while they are under compression, you don't have to wind them up while standing on a ladder.
 
My dad did it once; he slipped the spring retainer and it hit his head hard, cracked its skin, and has to drive himself to the ER and get stitches. Lucky he didn't get any brain damage or pass out during the drive and kill someone along the way.
 
Originally Posted By: rpn453
I did it last spring. It wasn't difficult and went even quicker than I expected, but go slow and always respect the amount of energy that is in those springs when they're wound up. Make a mark on the tensioning rods to ensure that it is fully inserted before removing the other one.

I looked on E-bay for springs to figure out what size I needed, but then phoned around and bought them locally. I think it was $90 for the pair. I was able to find three or four places that sell them, and it was easier than finding extension springs for the girlfriend's old garage door a couple months later.

For tensioning rods, I cut a 3' long 7/16" rod in half, as recommended by one of the spring suppliers I called. I think a 1/2" rod may have worked better though; the rod I used had quite a bit of play in the holes (though certainly not enough that they'd ever slip out).

I watched this video before doing the job:

http://www.wonderhowto.com/how-to/video/how-to-replace-your-garage-door-torsion-spring-169681/


Well it looks like the OP has already hired it done.

I others are interested, I did my own, but it was a few years ago. You can buy plain rods of different diameters at hardwares and home centers. Cut a 3' one in 2 and you have the rods you need. As above, think twice before you start and take it easy. With 2 well fitting rods, it isn't bad to walk the thing around. You can always let rod back off and rest against the ceiling if you need a break.

It is like some other things such as changing struts. Go at it any old way, quick, quick, quick, and yes, you can get hurt.

The net is a great way to bypass the nannies.

Note, the springs come wound left and right. helixes.
 
Had the torsion springs replaced today. It took the repairman less than an hour. I think it would have taken me a lot longer than that.

Overall, I think it was a good decision not to do a DIY due to the risk.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom