Any Updated "Best" Oil Filters List???

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Something that probably does need to be said, however, is that engine lubrication system design is increasingly "non-conventional", and you can sometimes find filters mounted remotely or not on the bottom of the engine (such as the top-side filter location on Chrysler Pentastars and some Toyota 4.0L V-6 engines). Some aspects of this discussion may still apply, but not necessarily everything. You probably wouldn't have an oiling system trying to gravity flow back through a filter if it's mounted at the top of the engine.


Very true; agree with the example of the 4.0L Toyota V-6 in the Tacoma (and FJ?); it's mounted up at valve cover height, and upside down to boot (open end down). Kind of makes an ADBV just about worthless IMO. I do wonder if they have a secondary ADBV in the system somewhere down lower, to prevent drainback (not that familiar with the internal workings of that particular engine). The set up does include a very nice small catch basin and place for a drain tube, to reduce the mess when changing a filter; very thoughtful.

 

[Sayjac]

Silicone adbv's are more durable than nitrile. That said, if one experiences no start up rattle/noise over the course of an oci using nitrile, it could well be a moot point. Some engines are more susceptible to start up rattle than others, silicone adbv's in those engines would be the logical choice.

As for best oil filter, depends on what the user values most. ROI, cost/benefit are important to me so that's what I look for. Though I don't have any in my stash right now, the Puro Classic at $3.27 everyday at Wally for all applications would be one filter that meets those qualifications.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: sayjac
Silicone adbv's are more durable than nitrile. That said, if one experiences no start up rattle/noise over the course of an oci using nitrile, it could well be a moot point. Some engines are more susceptible to start up rattle than others, silicone adbv's in those engines would be the logical choice.

As for best oil filter, depends on what the user values most. ROI, cost/benefit are important to me so that's what I look for. Though I don't have any in my stash right now, the Puro Classic at $3.27 everyday at Wally for all applications would be one filter that meets those qualifications.

Sayjac, being my filter is mounted at the 4:30 position (looking at the filter from the front end of the truck) it should not matter which type of ADBV were used, correct? Meaning, the filter dome end is almost facing downward and it should be full of oil, or at least 95% full. But, if what I am asking is correct, why would a filter STILL cause engine rattle upon startup and stop when a much better oil filter is put in its place? Bad ADBV?

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
But, if what I am asking is correct, why would a filter STILL cause engine rattle upon startup and stop when a much better oil filter is put in its place? Bad ADBV?

See previous illustration. Even if the filter remains full, an ADBV leakage on a filter mounted at the bottom of the engine can result in dry oil supply galleries.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
But, if what I am asking is correct, why would a filter STILL cause engine rattle upon startup and stop when a much better oil filter is put in its place? Bad ADBV?

See previous illustration. Even if the filter remains full, an ADBV leakage on a filter mounted at the bottom of the engine can result in dry oil supply galleries.

Yes, it makes sense. Instead of reaching the upper parts of the engine it is just going back to the oil pump and pan.

 

[KCJeep]

The best ADBV will hold the oil that's up there at shut down, well up there. Pretty sure that's what I've been dealing with, or lack thereof.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Yes, it makes sense. Instead of reaching the upper parts of the engine it is just going back to the oil pump and pan.


Right; if the ADBV seals well, the oil in the oil supply galleries will not be allowed to back-flow through the filter and the oiling system will, in a sense, stay "primed". Conversely, if the ADBV leaks (even slowly), that head pressure will push oil that's already in the filter back into the pan so that the oil above the filter can fall as far down as it possibly can. So while the oil filter itself is still full, the oil supply galleries above it would essentially be empty, and it would take some amount of time (we're talking seconds or less here) for those galleries to fill with oil.

If there is a startup rattle for many seconds, I'd say that it's less likely that it's associated with a dry start because of a leaking ADBV, and more likely that it's caused by something else.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Very true; agree with the example of the 4.0L Toyota V-6 in the Tacoma (and FJ?); it's mounted up at valve cover height, and upside down to boot (open end down). Kind of makes an ADBV just about worthless IMO. I do wonder if they have a secondary ADBV in the system somewhere down lower, to prevent drainback (not that familiar with the internal workings of that particular engine).


I have a 2005 Tacoma with the 4.0L V6. Use the PureOne PL20195 and never get any dry starts, and the oil pressure light goes off in less than 1/2 sec from start-up. I believe the silicone ADBV is working well and keeps the filter full, even though it's vertical with base down. Not sure if Toyota has added some kind of anti-drainback device in the oiling system ... I guess it's possible.

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
The set up does include a very nice small catch basin and place for a drain tube, to reduce the mess when changing a filter; very thoughtful.


I never use the oil drain basin below the filter, as I punch a hole in the top of the filter and let it drain for a while while hot (old RX-7 trick). Never get any oil mess when I remove the oil filter. When I punch the hole in the filter, I can hear the oil draining into the oil pan, and all the oil in the filter drains out so not one drop of oil is spilled when removing the filter from the mounting base.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Z06, my cousin has a 2010 PreRunner with the V6. He's the cousin that uses FRAM filters only because John Force and Don Garlits uses them.
He had been using the XG3600. I tried talking him into using a FU but he settled for the TG3600.
I will tell him what you stated, about punching a hole in the filter and letting it drain into the pan. How long does it take to drain and just punch a hole in the center of the dome?

 

[KCJeep]

The TG3600 is actually a very good filter in my experience. Wish I'd had used one instead of the PureOne I wouldn't be swapping!

Seems to me the ADBV is important though no matter how the filter is mounted.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter

I will tell him what you stated, about punching a hole in the filter and letting it drain into the pan. How long does it take to drain and just punch a hole in the center of the dome?


Just punch a small hole in the top of the filter's dome while the oil is still hot after shutting down the engine for the oil change. Let it drain 30~45 minutes along with the oil pan. I usually check other stuff over while the filter and oil pan drain good.

 

[Sayjac]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Sayjac, being my filter is mounted at the 4:30 position (looking at the filter from the front end of the truck) it should not matter which type of ADBV were used, correct? Meaning, the filter dome end is almost facing downward and it should be full of oil, or at least 95% full. But, if what I am asking is correct, why would a filter STILL cause engine rattle upon startup and stop when a much better oil filter is put in its place? Bad ADBV?..

I think you've already gotten some answers to this. As for 'much better filter', difference is whether the adbv remains sealed whatever the orientation of the filter, not allowing oil to back flow as shown in the diagram. Silicone (better filter) generally remains more pliable over a longer period and over differences in temperature than nitrile, better seal. As mentioned though, in my experience some engines (eg. 4.6L Modular engine) seem more susceptible to a start up rattle/noise than others, no matter the oci. The FL 820 S w silicone adbv worked best on the 4.6L, solved the start up rattle. But in another engine, nitrile adbv could work just fine over an oci. Though I prefer a silicone adbv, I've used many a filter with nitrile and never had a start up noise. My 3.4L Toyota is such an engine, nitrile or silicone adbv, it makes no difference. No start up rattle.