i recently bought a 2002 ws6. I bought it with 95000 miles on it. It feels strong and responsive but im not quite sure if there is any sludge inside the engine or varnish build up. This is my first car and want to do it right out of the gate. it says to use 5w30 for anytime or 10w-30 for temps above 0 degrees. I know zero about oil except when to change it and how to check levels. What is a good oil to use that will help clean up sludge and varnish and after i think its clean is there an oil you reccomend switching to for preventive measures or maximum protection? any input will be much appreciated. from reading on this forum i hear penzoil platinum and ultra and redline a lot. what oil is reccomended for each application? I have a work car so the ws6 only driven on weekends. I dont beat on it too much but do get on it every now and again. sorry for the long post just want to get opinions of people who know way more than i do. tahnks in advance
any suggestions? 2002 ws6
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It does not really matter what brand you choose, but there are significant advantages to synthetic and plenty of folks pushing Pennzoil Ultimate on these pages.
I would go with the factory rec. of 5w 30 and see if you consume any oil in 5,000 miles. Then run a user oil analysis and post it here.
I'd probably advise a 7,500 oil change interval if you really want to do it right.
I would go with the factory rec. of 5w 30 and see if you consume any oil in 5,000 miles. Then run a user oil analysis and post it here.
I'd probably advise a 7,500 oil change interval if you really want to do it right.
Despite all of the VERY thin weight oil fans on this site, LS1s (&2s,3s,6es, and 7s) seem to "like" a very THICK 30 weight (almost to 40 weight specs), or a VERY thin 40 weight (almost a heavy 30 weight spec) oil.
This is one of the reasons the 'German Castrol' (or GC as it's referred to on here) 0W-30 is/was sooo popular with our engines.
It is almost a 40 weight spec at 40*C.
That being said, you cannot go wrong with ANY of the good, major group 3+ to group 5 synthetics (PennzPlat/Ultra, Amsoil SSO [or ANY of the Amsoil line], Red Line, Shell Rotella, etc.) in a 0W-30, 5w30, 10W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40 weight.
Of course, if you were planning on driving it in the winter in Illini, you would trend towards the thinner weights (0W,5w30, or a thinner 0W-40).
BTW, mine has~130K miles on the odo, and it is STILL running strong (mid 12 sec. quarter miles with minor bolt-ons)
This is one of the reasons the 'German Castrol' (or GC as it's referred to on here) 0W-30 is/was sooo popular with our engines.
It is almost a 40 weight spec at 40*C.
That being said, you cannot go wrong with ANY of the good, major group 3+ to group 5 synthetics (PennzPlat/Ultra, Amsoil SSO [or ANY of the Amsoil line], Red Line, Shell Rotella, etc.) in a 0W-30, 5w30, 10W-30, 0W-40, or 5W-40 weight.
Of course, if you were planning on driving it in the winter in Illini, you would trend towards the thinner weights (0W,5w30, or a thinner 0W-40).
BTW, mine has~130K miles on the odo, and it is STILL running strong (mid 12 sec. quarter miles with minor bolt-ons)
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
It does not really matter what brand you choose, but there are significant advantages to synthetic and plenty of folks pushing Pennzoil Ultimate on these pages.
I would go with the factory rec. of 5w 30 and see if you consume any oil in 5,000 miles. Then run a user oil analysis and post it here.
I'd probably advise a 7,500 oil change interval if you really want to do it right.
wow i was planning on changing every 3000 miles. Is that too short? why would i wait for 7500 miles? and how/where do i bring the oil to run a n oil analysis? and would the more expensive lines be good for clearing sludge if its there and give me good protection?
It does not really matter what brand you choose, but there are significant advantages to synthetic and plenty of folks pushing Pennzoil Ultimate on these pages.
I would go with the factory rec. of 5w 30 and see if you consume any oil in 5,000 miles. Then run a user oil analysis and post it here.
I'd probably advise a 7,500 oil change interval if you really want to do it right.
wow i was planning on changing every 3000 miles. Is that too short? why would i wait for 7500 miles? and how/where do i bring the oil to run a n oil analysis? and would the more expensive lines be good for clearing sludge if its there and give me good protection?
I'll echo what dailydriver said. Any of the top synthetics are good, but I've had my best luck with German Castrol (GC). The rest of my fleet has been switched to Penzoil Platinum, but the LS1 gets European Formula Syntec 0W-30. I have noticed the engine is quieter than with the M1 10W-30 I used to use before I "discovered" GC.
As for oil filters, I personally like K&N, or Purolator Pure One, but I'll use just about anything (except the Fram Orange Can-o-death) that comes on sale with the oil.
If your car has a K&N air filter, I'd recommend going back to paper. And change your oil immediately to get rid of all the contaminints it has allowed in.
My Camaro is my baby, and used to always get 3000 mile oil changes. Now, the interval has gone up to 4000 miles, but that's just because I'm OCD about it. Going to therapy to fix myself would cost more than the once or twice a year oil changes.
As for oil filters, I personally like K&N, or Purolator Pure One, but I'll use just about anything (except the Fram Orange Can-o-death) that comes on sale with the oil.
If your car has a K&N air filter, I'd recommend going back to paper. And change your oil immediately to get rid of all the contaminints it has allowed in.
My Camaro is my baby, and used to always get 3000 mile oil changes. Now, the interval has gone up to 4000 miles, but that's just because I'm OCD about it. Going to therapy to fix myself would cost more than the once or twice a year oil changes.
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