any plumbers out there?

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I normally fix things "the right way" but this time I know I am not going to. I developed a leak in the 1/2" copper water line on one side of the kitchen that runs from under the sink up the wall across the ceiling and down to the fridge on the other side of the kitchen. A pinhole corroded through in an area that I can barely see. I think I can get a piece of rubber in there and use a hose clamp to seal it. DO YOU THINK IT WILL WORK? It is only low pressure from the Reverse osmosis unit. To "fix it right" I would have to bust out the wall and maybe some counter tiles, or go outside and cut out the stucco. I have also thought of liquid epoxy, quick steel, ribbon epoxy. What do you think will hold good enough so I don't have to mess with it again soon. It is in a real tight area, I can touch it with a couple fingers, any more would require demo! ???
 
a hose clamp and a rubber patch is a pretty standard "temporary" fix. however, this isnt meant to be permanent. the only permanent repair i would trust is brazing/soldering the pinhole shut.

how about replacing a section of the entire line? you might be able to get flexible/soft copper tubing to turn the corners. anyway, make the joint at a point where its easy to get to line (like behind some drywall).
 
So you're saying that it's in the wall behind the counter? It shouldn't be too hard to remove the counter top (even if it is tile the top should remove or lift out of the way) and pull a couple of the cabinets to get to it.

I'd fix it right so you don't have to worry about it in the future. As chas3 said, you might also be able to route some soft copper in there as well.
 
you can do te rubber thing or you can just snip the pipe so you have a clean 360 to work with ans extend your secondary piping from there

good luck
 
I sort of did a fix with rubber and hose clamps on the 4'' copper drain pipe in the crawl space about 25 years ago. Still holding fine. Go for it. Maybe redo it if you are ever remodeling.

It is unlike copper to corrode a pin hole. Could it have been damaged or something?
 
The house is 16 years old, I bought it new. Very soon after I moved in, A hole developed in the same pipe in the same area. The builder broke out the stucco (1'x2') and fixed it. The cabinet installers had shot a nail into it. This could be a late showing of the same thing I guess. But I don't see anything around it. There is some buildup of green corosion around the pinhole, so maybe it has been seeping for a while and finally let loose.
RE: electrical ground---this pipe does run up right next to a switch box, but I think the box is plastic.
 
It was not repaired correctly. If you can cut the pipe and use compression PEX connectors and a lil PEX tube, it'll be fixed "right". To save you from buying a long piece of PEX, I'd send you some 3/4"OD free.
 
The green corrosion could be an indicator of acid water. This is common on well systems where I'm at. The acid will eventually cause pinhole leaks like the one you describe. They make systems that will neutralize acid. I'd get a water test or you may start getting more leaks. My last house had acid water and I would get green rings around the sink drains. Telltale sign.
 
We are connected to a municipal water sourse. I have a water softener, then the water going to this pipe is run through a R.O. unit then into this pipe and over to the fridge. I do not think I can cut this pipe except maybe with a recip saw. I only have a couple inch area to work through. Not familiar with the term PEX or PEX tube.
 
I had a hose and rubber patch repair work for 10 years until my water heater conked out (for other reasons). I'm worried about the green corrosion for the same reason as drm7 mentioned. If corrosion is internal, it'll get worse.

I say patch it then keep an eye on it.
 
PEX is crosslinked polyethylene. It is sort of flexible and can be used with hot or cold water. It is used in place of the problematic polybutylene. There are a couple of different styles of connectors use with it. If you have enough room to work, there are several different connectors you could use. A CPVC union would be cheap and easy to install, about $2. They are about 4'' long, so wouldn't need a new section o pipe. There is also a shark tooth connector. I recently blew $10 at the plumbing supply house on a 3/4'' tee. Slick. Cut the pipe, shove the ends in the tee, and done. Oh, the pipe is too short? Push in the plastic collar and replace it with a bigger one.

Any of the above mentioned would work if you can move the pipe length wise. They are also all fat requiring more room than the pipe. The CPVC union will work if you can move either end sideways.

Note, if your pipe is a half inch OD, better ask for 3/8'' fittings.

I still say, if all you have room for is the rubber and hose clamp, don't worry about it.
 
Lowes or Home Depot carries a "Liquid Copper" type product that you can use to join copper pipes without solder. It's fairly cheap, easy to use, and sets up really quickly. It works the best if you can relieve the pressure and dry the area.

I am not a plumber but here is what I would do.

Cut a piece of copper tubing approx 1.5" in length and then cut it lengthwise so you have half a sleeve. Get the copper "weld" stuff and slather it on the pinhole. Put the sleeve over that and let it dry before turning the water on.

This stuff works really well for replacing small sections of pipe in confined areas.
 
copper tubing inner radius is smaller than the radius of the outer wall. so just cut a copper pipe union in half instead. better fit!
 
When needing the services of professionals to do work; my biggest complaint is against myself. I did not get estimates first. Maybe you can take care of it yourself.
 
There's an urban legend that a really good RO unit can make the water so pure that it can actually "steal" the ions off of metal pipe as it flows thru and eventually wear it away.

In any case, I would be concerned that the pipe might be weak in other areas as well and you may end up with other leaks that could cause considerable damage. You know that they only burst when your away for an extended time - one of Murphy's law.

Good luck
 
I can't edit but the name of what I used is "Copper Bond".

And chas3 is on the money. I'm the make ten trips for one piece kind of guy.
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