Any options for brake rotor corrosion reduction?

[RnR]

I'm pulling together my list of brake parts for an upcoming maintenance effort and am going for spiffy pads (NAPA Adaptive One) in conjunction with cheapo rotors.

But... my car has been sitting more in recent years and I am beginning to really detest the rust that seems to inevitably manifest itself on the calipers and rotors. While it looks like one could use POR-15 on the calipers - I wonder to what extent any other corrosion abatement treatments could be used for the rotors. Michigan road salt during the winter months and the daily/overnight exposure to fog and condensation during the summer seems to always turn the vanes and hats to [censored] before long.

Does anybody have any useful techniques to combat this situation... Rustoleum, specialized treatments, etc.??

I'd like to get and keep the calipers & rotors looking "finished" and cared for over the long term.

Ideas welcome!

 

[Steve S]

Bare metal????

 

[cjcride]

I read that some cheap rotors rust quick. Go for premium rotors. If you store the car I guess you could remove them and protect w/a thin film of oil. Just clean it of in Spring.

 

[RnR]

Originally Posted By: cjcride
I read that some cheap rotors rust quick. Go for premium rotors. If you store the car I guess you could remove them and protect w/a thin film of oil. Just clean it of in Spring.


No storage... just frequently sitting in the driveway looking lonely!

 

[Kuato]

All rotors, even high end European sedans, will rust over time if not used. A couple of brake applications will clean the rust off of the braking surface.

Even when I had a 20+ year old vehicle, I never had a rust related brake issue.

 

[hate2work]

They make stainless steel rotors, not sure if they do for your app though.

 

[oliveoil]

What do you think rustoleum or anything is going to do to your stoping power? The rust is normal and wears off after the first stop, rain or shine.

 

[moggi1964]

Ignore it; it is the only solution.

 

[RnR]

Let me clarify... I'm not concerned with the friction surfaces, more with the rotor hats and vanes. Please re-read the original post where I mention these specific areas.

Gad, I wouldn't think of doing anything that could negatively impact stopping power.

 

[crinkles]

Originally Posted By: moggi1964
Ignore it; it is the only solution.


+1

 

[JHZR2]

Even good rotors surface rust- the best thing I've seen go prevent it is a wheel that has as little open exposed surface as possible. Steelies with hubcaps are the best.

As far as rotor hats go, I just bought brake paint and painted them... No rust. Napa premium line comes painted.

 

[dan_erickson]

clean, prep, and paint the rotor before you install and it will help the non friction area stay rust free. I did that to the rotor on my GP GXP and they look great.

 

[Mr_Incredible]

Use a car cover and don't park on the grass or where rain water will flow under the car (like drain spouts.) This will mitigate, but I don't think anything but parking in a controlled environment will work for sure.

 

[mechtech2]

When we used to get rotors cut all the time, they often would have a slight rust on them in humid days 1/2 hour after cutting when they were returned!
Rotors rust, and are best kept OK by driving. Sitting is no good for them.
With new rotors, you have a chance to make things better. Of course, cleaning with brake cleaner , washing with Dawn dish soap, and plenty of water flushing should be first. Get the vents, too.
When it is dry, you can tape off the rotor face and spray paint the internal vents, and the top hat, and inner seating face.
Don't gob it on.
I have great success with Rustoleum spray on brake drums, and have been using it on rotors. It should not work as well as it does! Better high heat paints are indeed available .
Instead of simply spray cleaning and throwing the rotors on, allow some time and try something like this.

One more thing... I have relented about using good wheel bearing grease for all brake parts. I have seen rubber swell. This should not be, but it happens. So get real brake grease. A tub will last your lifetime. or gt little packets. The main mess up with civilian brake jobs is not to get he caliper sliders in perfect clean shape, and lubed.

 

[RnR]

Ok...

So a good cleaning of the rotors is in the plan followed up with some sort of Rustoleum or brake paint. Whichever is cheapest will likely get used. Anyway, I also picked up Bendix Ceramlub awhile back which should fill the grease need.

Thanks Gents.

 

[PandaBear]

Originally Posted By: RnR
Let me clarify... I'm not concerned with the friction surfaces, more with the rotor hats and vanes.


A lot of the "premium" grade rotors have paint over the non friction surface like the hats (not sure about the vanes), why don't you give them a try if it bothers you?

 

[KrisZ]

My Mazda 3 came from the factory with coated rotors. The hats are perfect and rust free, but the vanes are rusty, I guess the heat cycles combined with tons of salt on the road during winter take their toll. Oh well, I planned on replacing rotors anyway.

 

[65cuda]

Wouldn't painting the surfaces of the vanes reduce the ability to disapate the heat?

 

[XS650]

Originally Posted By: 65cuda
Wouldn't painting the surfaces of the vanes reduce the ability to disapate the heat?


Yes but keep it thin and you won't notice a difference.

I've heard from people that got their rotors zinc plated and let the zinc on the braking surface wear off, leaving the non-rubbing surfaces plated. I haven't tried it but some people swear by it.

 

[VNTS]

I know what you mean. You get the rust on the outer edge where the pad doesnt reach and over time it gets worse, especially if you allow the car to sit. then the pad rides on the rusted outer edge and you get the vibration if it gets bad enough.

I paint the outer edge and hat section and that helps retard the problem but I just got a nice set of rotors from Rock auto from centrix, they come powder coated on the hat and outer edge including the vents.