Any hybrids with an IC engine that can be turned off?

OP already posted why he is not going to walk, ride a bicycle, or ride EV bike. I suggest you read those earlier posts to get up-to-speed.
I know, I am just saying it is a short distance, but in practice in the US anyone who can find parking would likely have a car, even a cheap one.

I think Critics made the most important point though, it is probably not about saving money.
 
One of the short range Leafs might fit this bill nicely. As many of you know the early Leafs had a short range to begin with and that already short range has declined further. When they get down to a range of 50 miles or so, they aren't worth much - even if they are still in otherwise very good condition.

Replacing the battery with a larger capacity (ie longer range) used battery from one of the more recent models (presumably from a wreck) would be possible, as would adding a(n after market) supplemental battery mounted in the trunk. Either option or both options together would be quite expensive, probably prohibitively expensive.

But if the thread starter could get by with a range of (say) 50 miles, an early Leaf could make for a cheap purchase and with low running costs besides.
 
Guy is in Kentucky so not practical. Could be 25° in the winter and 95° in the summer and raining anytime.
Humbug! I commuted by bicycle most days for ~28 years in eastern states both north and south of Kentucky. Not so much on rainy days, admittedly.
 
Can't believe I'm saying this... But maybe just go with full electric? Seems like your commute is made for an EV. I believe it's possible to find a Chevy Bolt in $15k-$17k range. 1st Gen Chevy Volt should be even cheaper. Or low mileage 1st gen Nissan Leaf for $4k-$5k, or low mileage Ford Focus electric for $5k-$6k, and just throw in a new or refurbished battery pack in it. Should be good for 8-10 years.
I have no way of charging an EV at home or work currently. The nearest chargers per Google are at least 3 miles away. My apartment parking lot has a drive through it, so the cable would have to go across the parking lot, and out a 3rd story window. It would be easier to push for it at work, as one co-worker used to plug in his engine heater during the winter. I don't see an engine heater and a vehicle as the same though as far as power usage.
For any other special purpose vehicle this short of a trip is not worth overthinking.
This is BITOG. I thought overthinking was the only way to think here? :D.
For 2 miles a day, suspension if not rust out is "tolerable" IMO. Tires are probably something you just wear and tear away for $600 / set? So are brakes for maybe $500?

Seriously, you don't really drive enough to need a replacement car to save money on your current one.
2.1 miles each way per day. I'm not trying to save money on my current one, just stating that the vehicle is in need of front struts, swaybar endlinks, brakes, and tires soon, which would be about $2K to take care of. Half of that would be considered safety items. I either spend it on the vehicle, and keep it longer until pricing dies down, spend it and hope to make the money back when I sell it, or not spend it and price the vehicle accordingly.
In my opinion - yes. This^ is the way to go. But seems like OP is trying to go away from IC engine, so EV seems like a better option in that regard. Charge overnight, roll to/from work and errands.
I am considering getting away from them. I see the writing on the wall. I'm just trying to work out of a hybrid of some kind is viable for my current commute.
 
I have no way of charging an EV at home or work currently. The nearest chargers per Google are at least 3 miles away. My apartment parking lot has a drive through it, so the cable would have to go across the parking lot, and out a 3rd story window. It would be easier to push for it at work, as one co-worker used to plug in his engine heater during the winter. I don't see an engine heater and a vehicle as the same though as far as power usage.

This is BITOG. I thought overthinking was the only way to think here? :D.

2.1 miles each way per day. I'm not trying to save money on my current one, just stating that the vehicle is in need of front struts, swaybar endlinks, brakes, and tires soon, which would be about $2K to take care of. Half of that would be considered safety items. I either spend it on the vehicle, and keep it longer until pricing dies down, spend it and hope to make the money back when I sell it, or not spend it and price the vehicle accordingly.

I am considering getting away from them. I see the writing on the wall. I'm just trying to work out of a hybrid of some kind is viable for my current commute.
I see what you are trying to do here. So here is my analysis:

From IC, to hybrid, to plug in hybrid, to EV, there are gradually increasing battery depreciation / aging cost that you will need some sort of return to justify. Typically this means the distance you drive must be a certain daily commute or have a good charging network for long drive like Tesla. For short distance driving like yours, the bigger the battery the more it cost per day, regardless of distance, in your cost of ownership.

Hybrid will be expensive in this high gas price supply chain shortage market, I'd not buy it for this short of a commute.
 
The Volt will automatically run the engine as needed to keep the gas from going stale.
Unless you run it dry :0
or have to use the engine for 10 minutes every cpu of weeks.

I only had the volt run “maintenance “ once in my ownership during the pandemic
 
It would be easier to push for it at work, as one co-worker used to plug in his engine heater during the winter. I don't see an engine heater and a vehicle as the same though as far as power usuage

I agree a block heater uses far more energy than a PHEV driving 5 miles a day

My 82 Diesel suburban block heater would blow breakers

My Volt uses 8-12 amps (1000-1440) watts off a traditional outlet (10-14 cents an hour)
My 82 Suburban would draw 1800 watts for a good 4 hours when cold
with a surge when you plugged it in.

Depending on your weather and climate use my Volt typically uses (off the wall) 180-450 watt/hrs per mile

In the summer driving city you might only draw 180x5= 0.9 kwhrs at the wall which is under 10 cents a day in this area
In the winter during bad weather you may use as much as 450 watts per mile which is 450x5=1.8 kwhrs or about 18 cents in this area

The Volt during very bad weather is likely to run as a plain gas car meaning you may not use much electricity making that metric moot.

And for comparison my 82 block heater (in bad weather) would draw about 1.8x4=7.2kwhrs or 72 cents of juice after which it would cycle on/off using an unknown amount of power.
Plugged in long enough the 82 diesel would start right up in -40F temperatures which was worth it.

So long story short if your workplace is like mine with women running personal heaters at their desk year round, those cost as much or more than a Volt, PIP, I3 or Prime in terms of electricity
 
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Chevy volt. I've known several owners who say that they've used just electric mode on it frequently. It will However run the engine ever so often to keep gas from sitting.
 
Coworker purchased a Volt that was the lowest price I've ever heard for a vehicle that age.. He drove it to work every day (free chargers) and he never used the gas motor for over three years now, he never said that is runs automatically sometimes, but what a deal! Free energy at work for his commutes, and what a smart, cheap bastard.
 
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