Any HPL users on 3.5 EcoBoosts?

Moar pics also changed transfer case fluid for first time, still red with no particulates. The blue label Amsoil Signature series went in.
 

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I’m pretty sure it’s not, you can find more than one story on this board, and there’s less than a million users. I’ve used Fumoto before; this just seems safer. No way other than intentional of opening this; it’s a ball-check valve.
The italics indicate a reference to something specific. In this case, a famous Seinfield episode and a unique BITOG thread.
:)
 
I really like the idea of the Stahlbus and Valvomax, as I posted in your other thread, if I didn’t already have a Fumoto drain valve I would buy one of these.

My accord is lower to the ground then your vehicle, the valve points straight back so no fear of anything ever hitting it. If something were to hit it, the oil pan would be ripped off so..
 
I realize this thread has wandered far from the HPL in a 3.5 EB topic, but since it already did…by the OP… let me express my concern with the Fumoto, Valvomax, Stanlbus products…specifically on an 3.5 EB….at least the Gen 1. Question: is the drain HOLE positioned and oriented such that it will drain most all the pan, because the HOLE’s lower edge is approximately level with the floor of the pan???. However, if you use a “permanent” insert, the effective bottom of the hole will be above the floor of the pan??? On my Subaru, the hole is slanted downward within a “downward bulge” in the base of the stamped steel pan…so for THAT vehicle the Fumoto, Valvomax, or Stahlbus won’t impede near-complete drainage. Worded another way, on the Ford, if the wall of the threaded insert is 1/8” thick, wouldn’t you be left with 1/8” layer of used oil left in the bottom of the pan, unless you tilt the vehicle to reduce the amount of oil held back by the reduced-diameter hole, which is now 1/8” above the floor of the pan. Or maybe I’m wrong and the floor of the pan is above the hole casting??? That’s possible. I guess one way to test that would be to stick a small screwdriver or equivalent into the opened drain hole to “feel” where the internal floor of the pan is relative to the hole.

****I edited this to pose my concerns more like questions instead of statements of fact, because I don’t know where the floor of the pan is relative to the hole…though it seems “flush.”
 
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I realize this thread has wandered far from the HPL in a 3.5 EB topic, but since it already did, let me express my concern with the Fumoto, Valvomax, Stanlbus products…specifically on an 3.5 EB….at least the Gen 1. The drain HOLE is positioned and oriented such that it will drain most all the pan, because the HOLE’s lower edge is approximately level with the floor of the pan. However, if you use a “permanent” insert, the effective bottom of the hole will be above the floor of the pan. On my Subaru, the hole is slanted downward within a “downward bulge” in the base of the pan…so for THAT vehicle the Fumoto, Valvomax, or Stahlbus won’t impede near-complete drainage. Worded another way, if the wall of the threaded inset is 1/8” thick, on the Ford, you’ll be left with 1/8” layer of used oil left in the bottom of the pan, unless you tilt the vehicle to reduce the amount of oil held back by the reduced-diameter hole.
Right but that 1/8” of oil really doesn’t matter… there is already some oil left behind throughout the engine.
 
Rt
Right but that 1/8” of oil really doesn’t matter… there is already some oil left behind throughout the engine.
i edited my previous post to word it more like a question, but regardless, I would not consider it an improvement to not drain as much oil as possible. This is not a significant issue if the drain hole is below the pan floor. I'm not sure the area (square “footage”) of the pan’s floor, but that’s more old oil than I want to leave behind each time.
 
Rt

i edited my previous post to word it more like a question, but regardless, I would not consider it an improvement to not drain as much oil as possible. This is not a significant issue if the drain hole is below the pan floor. I'm not sure the area (square “footage”) of the pan’s floor, but that’s more old oil than I want to leave behind each time.
How long do you normally let your engine drain? There's always a decent amount of old oil left. You could raise the drivers side if you were too worried about it 😅
 
Heh, yes I do the tilt. I guess I could tilt more. And pay Fumoto for that privilege. But, especially on my Gen 1, I am tired of the mess. So yes, I need to look into one of these for next OC.

I won’t tell you to lengths I go to prevent a mess under the oil filter. Lengths which don’t succeed 100%. I guess that’s why JiffyLube thrives.
 
The 5K filter changes were set up to line up with a safety check for brakes and suspension inspections. This fleet operates off-road in relatively rough terrain. It is probably not necessary based on sample data however there are some places where there are brake jobs done 3x the rate of an oil change. Getting the vehicles in the shop is critical.

David
 
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