Originally Posted By: car51
WHO CARES!
Obviously you lol
WHO CARES!
Obviously you lol
Any harm running Castrol edge 10/40 in diesel?
- Thread starter BlackBeard
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Originally Posted By: car51
WHO CARES!
Obviously you lol
Maybe it will work out, maybe it won’t. Hope for best
Originally Posted By: car51
WHO CARES!
Obviously you lol
Maybe it will work out, maybe it won’t. Hope for best
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
This is exactly why I mentioned I don’t need readers replying. I can read the bottle like everyone else. I’m looking for educated responses only. The Mobil 1 turbodiesel carries an an certification as does the edge. Based on VOA and research I don’t find any harm. I’ve been a lurker on this forum for years and assumed I would receive intelligent and debate worthy responses. It’s dissapointing seeing so many closed minded users. The whole point of this forum is to educate ourselves outside of what label marketing sells us. So again if it’s not constructive please refrain from replying. I’m all for hearing why it won’t work but I have yet to see any actual intelligent reason why.
Interesting how when someone doesn't get a plateful of the answers they want they turn to disparaging and personal comments.
I remember when you posted this a while back:
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
I've been an oil fanatic for some time now but I can't get one theory though my head. I'm sure someone here can explain it in simple terms for me. I'll get to the point:
5w-20 oil is very thin. Almost a consistency of water
10-49 oil is very thick compared to 5w-20. So in my mind the number 20 stands for a thinner index than the number 40w,
Here is where I get confused. When the oil is cold it's rated as a 10, when hot it's rated at a 40 weight. But in real world when you have that cold oil it's much much thicker than when it's hot. So how does the number system work because it doesn't make sense to me. And go ahead and get technical I've been a mechanic and engineer most my life this is just one theory that has me stumped. I like to visualize answers in my mind and I can't get over the fact that a 29 weight oil is so thin and a 40 weight so heavy yet when Cold that 10-40 is no where near 5-20 consistency even though it's cold rated at a. 10 weight
So you are saying you've progressed from that entirely clueless post to now being able to discern through a VOA and "research" whether an oil is an effective substitute for a properly rated and certificated oil?
You remember when i posted that or looked through my contacts and dig up an old post? Either way I have no shame. Everyone starts somewhere and since I joined this site I’ve learned a lot on oils and owning a fleet of vehicles and putting that knowledge to the test is what really helps. Either way if you expect everyone to come on here as an expert you’ll always be disappointed. And I’m not belittling anyone comments it’s quite the opposite. I’m frustrated that people don’t take the time to read what they’re replying to and just post facts from a label. I simply asked for anyone more knowledgeable in the certifications and cross checking them. I got my answer and the a3/b3 cert it carries holds well enough for European Diesel engines even common rail designs so I am content with going ahead and running it. If you can explain to me why an oil will work in a car diesel and not a light truck I’m all ears
One "watchout" I can think of is that the 7.3 diesel with the HEUI injection system was notorious for shearing oils that had viscosity spreads wider than 15w40 or 10w30. They turn 5w40's into 30 weights all the time. A 10w40 may not be as bad, though. And then you should consider stiction, which is a problem your engine will have that European car diesels will not.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
This is exactly why I mentioned I don’t need readers replying. I can read the bottle like everyone else. I’m looking for educated responses only. The Mobil 1 turbodiesel carries an an certification as does the edge. Based on VOA and research I don’t find any harm. I’ve been a lurker on this forum for years and assumed I would receive intelligent and debate worthy responses. It’s dissapointing seeing so many closed minded users. The whole point of this forum is to educate ourselves outside of what label marketing sells us. So again if it’s not constructive please refrain from replying. I’m all for hearing why it won’t work but I have yet to see any actual intelligent reason why.
Interesting how when someone doesn't get a plateful of the answers they want they turn to disparaging and personal comments.
I remember when you posted this a while back:
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
I've been an oil fanatic for some time now but I can't get one theory though my head. I'm sure someone here can explain it in simple terms for me. I'll get to the point:
5w-20 oil is very thin. Almost a consistency of water
10-49 oil is very thick compared to 5w-20. So in my mind the number 20 stands for a thinner index than the number 40w,
Here is where I get confused. When the oil is cold it's rated as a 10, when hot it's rated at a 40 weight. But in real world when you have that cold oil it's much much thicker than when it's hot. So how does the number system work because it doesn't make sense to me. And go ahead and get technical I've been a mechanic and engineer most my life this is just one theory that has me stumped. I like to visualize answers in my mind and I can't get over the fact that a 29 weight oil is so thin and a 40 weight so heavy yet when Cold that 10-40 is no where near 5-20 consistency even though it's cold rated at a. 10 weight
So you are saying you've progressed from that entirely clueless post to now being able to discern through a VOA and "research" whether an oil is an effective substitute for a properly rated and certificated oil?
You remember when i posted that or looked through my contacts and dig up an old post? Either way I have no shame. Everyone starts somewhere and since I joined this site I’ve learned a lot on oils and owning a fleet of vehicles and putting that knowledge to the test is what really helps. Either way if you expect everyone to come on here as an expert you’ll always be disappointed. And I’m not belittling anyone comments it’s quite the opposite. I’m frustrated that people don’t take the time to read what they’re replying to and just post facts from a label. I simply asked for anyone more knowledgeable in the certifications and cross checking them. I got my answer and the a3/b3 cert it carries holds well enough for European Diesel engines even common rail designs so I am content with going ahead and running it. If you can explain to me why an oil will work in a car diesel and not a light truck I’m all ears
One "watchout" I can think of is that the 7.3 diesel with the HEUI injection system was notorious for shearing oils that had viscosity spreads wider than 15w40 or 10w30. They turn 5w40's into 30 weights all the time. A 10w40 may not be as bad, though. And then you should consider stiction, which is a problem your engine will have that European car diesels will not.
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Here I’ll post this straight from the certifications site. Maybe this will help you guys out as it’s a ACEA a3/b3 oil. All I’m asking is anyone opposing this please provide a valid reason. It’s not hard. I wouldn’t suggest against anything if I wasn’t factually informed
I had to read it twice to find the critical difference: A3/B4 is for DI diesel engines. A3/B3 is not. You should use an A3/B4 in the DI 7.3. If you had an IDI 6.9 or 7.3, A3/B3 would be OK.
Here I’ll post this straight from the certifications site. Maybe this will help you guys out as it’s a ACEA a3/b3 oil. All I’m asking is anyone opposing this please provide a valid reason. It’s not hard. I wouldn’t suggest against anything if I wasn’t factually informed
I had to read it twice to find the critical difference: A3/B4 is for DI diesel engines. A3/B3 is not. You should use an A3/B4 in the DI 7.3. If you had an IDI 6.9 or 7.3, A3/B3 would be OK.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
This is exactly why I mentioned I don’t need readers replying. I can read the bottle like everyone else. I’m looking for educated responses only. The Mobil 1 turbodiesel carries an an certification as does the edge. Based on VOA and research I don’t find any harm. I’ve been a lurker on this forum for years and assumed I would receive intelligent and debate worthy responses. It’s dissapointing seeing so many closed minded users. The whole point of this forum is to educate ourselves outside of what label marketing sells us. So again if it’s not constructive please refrain from replying. I’m all for hearing why it won’t work but I have yet to see any actual intelligent reason why.
Interesting how when someone doesn't get a plateful of the answers they want they turn to disparaging and personal comments.
I remember when you posted this a while back:
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
I've been an oil fanatic for some time now but I can't get one theory though my head. I'm sure someone here can explain it in simple terms for me. I'll get to the point:
5w-20 oil is very thin. Almost a consistency of water
10-49 oil is very thick compared to 5w-20. So in my mind the number 20 stands for a thinner index than the number 40w,
Here is where I get confused. When the oil is cold it's rated as a 10, when hot it's rated at a 40 weight. But in real world when you have that cold oil it's much much thicker than when it's hot. So how does the number system work because it doesn't make sense to me. And go ahead and get technical I've been a mechanic and engineer most my life this is just one theory that has me stumped. I like to visualize answers in my mind and I can't get over the fact that a 29 weight oil is so thin and a 40 weight so heavy yet when Cold that 10-40 is no where near 5-20 consistency even though it's cold rated at a. 10 weight
So you are saying you've progressed from that entirely clueless post to now being able to discern through a VOA and "research" whether an oil is an effective substitute for a properly rated and certificated oil?
You remember when i posted that or looked through my contacts and dig up an old post? Either way I have no shame. Everyone starts somewhere and since I joined this site I’ve learned a lot on oils and owning a fleet of vehicles and putting that knowledge to the test is what really helps. Either way if you expect everyone to come on here as an expert you’ll always be disappointed. And I’m not belittling anyone comments it’s quite the opposite. I’m frustrated that people don’t take the time to read what they’re replying to and just post facts from a label. I simply asked for anyone more knowledgeable in the certifications and cross checking them. I got my answer and the a3/b3 cert it carries holds well enough for European Diesel engines even common rail designs so I am content with going ahead and running it. If you can explain to me why an oil will work in a car diesel and not a light truck I’m all ears
One "watchout" I can think of is that the 7.3 diesel with the HEUI injection system was notorious for shearing oils that had viscosity spreads wider than 15w40 or 10w30. They turn 5w40's into 30 weights all the time. A 10w40 may not be as bad, though. And then you should consider stiction, which is a problem your engine will have that European car diesels will not.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Here I’ll post this straight from the certifications site. Maybe this will help you guys out as it’s a ACEA a3/b3 oil. All I’m asking is anyone opposing this please provide a valid reason. It’s not hard. I wouldn’t suggest against anything if I wasn’t factually informed
I had to read it twice to find the critical difference: A3/B4 is for DI diesel engines. A3/B3 is not. You should use an A3/B4 in the DI 7.3. If you had an IDI 6.9 or 7.3, A3/B3 would be OK.
Thanks both of you. The shearing factor is a problem I appreciate you bringing up. I plan to run this in my high mileage 7.3 and send off a report to black stone and see how it’s looking before putting it into my nice 7.3. _Harman that’s a good point. I’m going to look further into why specifically it separates the two. I own a 7.3 idi as well and it totally makes sense as that motor is no different than a small block architecture except higher spot contamination’s. The heui 7.3’s I own don’t ever turn my oil black so I’m hoping spot shouldn’t be a factor. The idi will turn it to coffee after 500 miles until I added the frantz bypass filter.
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
This is exactly why I mentioned I don’t need readers replying. I can read the bottle like everyone else. I’m looking for educated responses only. The Mobil 1 turbodiesel carries an an certification as does the edge. Based on VOA and research I don’t find any harm. I’ve been a lurker on this forum for years and assumed I would receive intelligent and debate worthy responses. It’s dissapointing seeing so many closed minded users. The whole point of this forum is to educate ourselves outside of what label marketing sells us. So again if it’s not constructive please refrain from replying. I’m all for hearing why it won’t work but I have yet to see any actual intelligent reason why.
Interesting how when someone doesn't get a plateful of the answers they want they turn to disparaging and personal comments.
I remember when you posted this a while back:
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
I've been an oil fanatic for some time now but I can't get one theory though my head. I'm sure someone here can explain it in simple terms for me. I'll get to the point:
5w-20 oil is very thin. Almost a consistency of water
10-49 oil is very thick compared to 5w-20. So in my mind the number 20 stands for a thinner index than the number 40w,
Here is where I get confused. When the oil is cold it's rated as a 10, when hot it's rated at a 40 weight. But in real world when you have that cold oil it's much much thicker than when it's hot. So how does the number system work because it doesn't make sense to me. And go ahead and get technical I've been a mechanic and engineer most my life this is just one theory that has me stumped. I like to visualize answers in my mind and I can't get over the fact that a 29 weight oil is so thin and a 40 weight so heavy yet when Cold that 10-40 is no where near 5-20 consistency even though it's cold rated at a. 10 weight
So you are saying you've progressed from that entirely clueless post to now being able to discern through a VOA and "research" whether an oil is an effective substitute for a properly rated and certificated oil?
You remember when i posted that or looked through my contacts and dig up an old post? Either way I have no shame. Everyone starts somewhere and since I joined this site I’ve learned a lot on oils and owning a fleet of vehicles and putting that knowledge to the test is what really helps. Either way if you expect everyone to come on here as an expert you’ll always be disappointed. And I’m not belittling anyone comments it’s quite the opposite. I’m frustrated that people don’t take the time to read what they’re replying to and just post facts from a label. I simply asked for anyone more knowledgeable in the certifications and cross checking them. I got my answer and the a3/b3 cert it carries holds well enough for European Diesel engines even common rail designs so I am content with going ahead and running it. If you can explain to me why an oil will work in a car diesel and not a light truck I’m all ears
One "watchout" I can think of is that the 7.3 diesel with the HEUI injection system was notorious for shearing oils that had viscosity spreads wider than 15w40 or 10w30. They turn 5w40's into 30 weights all the time. A 10w40 may not be as bad, though. And then you should consider stiction, which is a problem your engine will have that European car diesels will not.
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: BlackBeard
Here I’ll post this straight from the certifications site. Maybe this will help you guys out as it’s a ACEA a3/b3 oil. All I’m asking is anyone opposing this please provide a valid reason. It’s not hard. I wouldn’t suggest against anything if I wasn’t factually informed
I had to read it twice to find the critical difference: A3/B4 is for DI diesel engines. A3/B3 is not. You should use an A3/B4 in the DI 7.3. If you had an IDI 6.9 or 7.3, A3/B3 would be OK.
Thanks both of you. The shearing factor is a problem I appreciate you bringing up. I plan to run this in my high mileage 7.3 and send off a report to black stone and see how it’s looking before putting it into my nice 7.3. _Harman that’s a good point. I’m going to look further into why specifically it separates the two. I own a 7.3 idi as well and it totally makes sense as that motor is no different than a small block architecture except higher spot contamination’s. The heui 7.3’s I own don’t ever turn my oil black so I’m hoping spot shouldn’t be a factor. The idi will turn it to coffee after 500 miles until I added the frantz bypass filter.
I read the pdf for ACEA certification factors for both a3/b3 and a3/b4, if you look at the attached pics it defines that even the b3 is suitable for di Diesel engines just that it has a slightly higher rating on a few factors compared to the tighter tolerance for b4, based on his info I say it’s safe to say it’ll be plenty adequate just that a b4 rated oil would be preffered. But for 2$ a qt looks like I’ll be safe
Last edited:
The A3/B4, like I mentioned, would be fine. It's not a lot different in some ways, notably SA, from the pre-CJ-4 days.
Originally Posted By: Garak
The A3/B4, like I mentioned, would be fine. It's not a lot different in some ways, notably SA, from the pre-CJ-4 days.
The A3/B4, like I mentioned, would be fine. It's not a lot different in some ways, notably SA, from the pre-CJ-4 days.
- Status
Similar threads
- Sticky