Even if you are on city water junk builds up on the bottom....This product works....Interesting video .... thanks for posting.
I assume that would work best if the water were supplied from a well ?
If so, I'd consider adding a water filtration system 'before' the heater.
I have county water and get hardly any sediment when draining one gallon of water.
To keep my tank clean, if I know the water company had the water shut off for a repair, I will run the 'cold' water in the basement to remove any sediment in the line 'before' it gets to the heater.
Any BITOGER use a Sediment Buster and if so, what were the results? Came across the Sediment Buster on Facebook, and then watched their marketing video on youtube. Not sure if this is a good tool to better clean a hot water heater- or just a marketing item.
The proof is in the pale.....for me not a waste of money at all...It works well...dont waste your money.
Sure it does work well. I have no doubt. The same thing can be done with a garden hose hooked up to it. All that is needed is a washer machine hose, (female to female) hose.The proof is in the pale.....for me not a waste of money at all...It works well...
but it can be, it not done with careso can't be bad.
Thats how I used to drain it....but with the option to push air in it it helps to get more junk out...works for me and I have seen the results of doing it both ways...Sure it does work well. I have no doubt. The same thing can be done with a garden hose hooked up to it. All that is needed is a washer machine hose, (female to female) hose.
Introducing air into a plumbing system, especially with sediment can be troublesome. This procedure is typically done when changing the unit out.
The best thing to do is once a year, hook up a hose to the drain, and under house pressure, let it flow until clear, maybe a minute.
Again, it does work, but there is another very common way it is done, without it that is just as good.
Sometimes, introducing pressure, greater than the incoming pressure to a system can cause damage to the weakest point in the system, if not done with great care.
While it works to unclog, you are only getting 20%ish I bet. You need to get that product that is a whip that goes inside and breaks up most of the sediment on the floor that is cement like.
Here is a link for a full port valve- I purchased this valve yesterday.If you have a sediment issue, you may want to swap out your drain valve for full port valve. It can let out a lot more sediment without the need for a pressure flush.
I have an indirect water heater that has a big heating coil at the bottom. I'm thinking any whip anything is damaging the coil and fins and won't be happening.Thanks for posting the whip.
I watched a video of the whip inside of the tank. Maybe erroneous, but I didn't like scratching up the inside bottom and lower sides of the water tank.
While it works to unclog, you are only getting 20%ish I bet. You need to get that product that is a whip that goes inside and breaks up most of the sediment on the floor that is cement like.