Any BITOGER use a Sediment Buster to unclog, flush, and drain a water heater tank?

GON

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Any BITOGER use a Sediment Buster and if so, what were the results? Came across the Sediment Buster on Facebook, and then watched their marketing video on youtube. Not sure if this is a good tool to better clean a hot water heater- or just a marketing item.

 
Yes I have been using one on my tank for a few years. It works great. The shot of air really gets the crud out. I clean mine out one a year....
 
Interesting video .... thanks for posting.
I assume that would work best if the water were supplied from a well ?
If so, I'd consider adding a water filtration system 'before' the heater.

I have county water and get hardly any sediment when draining one gallon of water.
To keep my tank clean, if I know the water company had the water shut off for a repair, I will run the 'cold' water in the basement to remove any sediment in the line 'before' it gets to the heater.

Side note:
My brother has a cabin with a shallow well (40 feet).
I suggested we pull the pump out and do some measuring.
Pump/tubing was 40 feet long.
Bottom of well was 40 feet .... no wonder the water looked dirty / pump was at very bottom of hole.
We cut three feet off the tubing and the water cleared up.
 
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Interesting video .... thanks for posting.
I assume that would work best if the water were supplied from a well ?
If so, I'd consider adding a water filtration system 'before' the heater.

I have county water and get hardly any sediment when draining one gallon of water.
To keep my tank clean, if I know the water company had the water shut off for a repair, I will run the 'cold' water in the basement to remove any sediment in the line 'before' it gets to the heater.
Even if you are on city water junk builds up on the bottom....This product works....
 
I drain/flush mine annually and do know that sometimes it will get a sediment clog while doing it. This device seems way easier than my method before where I disconnect the drain hose, and blast air from my compressor back through the open tank drain valve. This method is super messy and time consuming as the valve can clog quite a bit. Think I'll try one out.
 
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Any BITOGER use a Sediment Buster and if so, what were the results? Came across the Sediment Buster on Facebook, and then watched their marketing video on youtube. Not sure if this is a good tool to better clean a hot water heater- or just a marketing item.


dont waste your money.
 
Removing sediment from a tank speaks for itself.
Any little adapter and valve which aids in doing so can't be bad.
How much is this thing?

What I really want to see is when Joe Average homeowner fills thin plastic clothing hoppers (used in video) with 11-12 gallons of water....then it splits open!
 
While it works to unclog, you are only getting 20%ish I bet. You need to get that product that is a whip that goes inside and breaks up most of the sediment on the floor that is cement like.

 
The proof is in the pale.....for me not a waste of money at all...It works well...
Sure it does work well. I have no doubt. The same thing can be done with a garden hose hooked up to it. All that is needed is a washer machine hose, (female to female) hose.

Introducing air into a plumbing system, especially with sediment can be troublesome. This procedure is typically done when changing the unit out.

The best thing to do is once a year, hook up a hose to the drain, and under house pressure, let it flow until clear, maybe a minute.

Again, it does work, but there is another very common way it is done, without it that is just as good.

Sometimes, introducing pressure, greater than the incoming pressure to a system can cause damage to the weakest point in the system, if not done with great care.
 
I have been using the SB for a couple of years now. Works great to get the stubborn sediment out of the bottom of the tank.
 
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If you have a sediment issue, you may want to swap out your drain valve for full port valve. It can let out a lot more sediment without the need for a pressure flush.
 
Sure it does work well. I have no doubt. The same thing can be done with a garden hose hooked up to it. All that is needed is a washer machine hose, (female to female) hose.

Introducing air into a plumbing system, especially with sediment can be troublesome. This procedure is typically done when changing the unit out.

The best thing to do is once a year, hook up a hose to the drain, and under house pressure, let it flow until clear, maybe a minute.

Again, it does work, but there is another very common way it is done, without it that is just as good.

Sometimes, introducing pressure, greater than the incoming pressure to a system can cause damage to the weakest point in the system, if not done with great care.
Thats how I used to drain it....but with the option to push air in it it helps to get more junk out...works for me and I have seen the results of doing it both ways...
 
While it works to unclog, you are only getting 20%ish I bet. You need to get that product that is a whip that goes inside and breaks up most of the sediment on the floor that is cement like.


Thanks for posting the whip.

I watched a video of the whip inside of the tank. Maybe erroneous, but I didn't like scratching up the inside bottom and lower sides of the water tank.
 
If you have a sediment issue, you may want to swap out your drain valve for full port valve. It can let out a lot more sediment without the need for a pressure flush.
Here is a link for a full port valve- I purchased this valve yesterday.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XZG7SQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?

61-AugLYJUL._AC_SL1500_.webp
51ju8p55zZL._AC_.webp
71ylXJ9zy4L._AC_SL1500_.webp
 
Thanks for posting the whip.

I watched a video of the whip inside of the tank. Maybe erroneous, but I didn't like scratching up the inside bottom and lower sides of the water tank.
I have an indirect water heater that has a big heating coil at the bottom. I'm thinking any whip anything is damaging the coil and fins and won't be happening.

I need to drain and clean mine and do the calcium de-scale cleaning recycle thing soon.

I like that full port drain valve, might need to grab one for when I do it all. Currently it just has a regular twist handle boiler drain valve on it.
 
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I'm not keen on replacing the drain valve in case it's in there tight as not to damage the tank liner. But having a cap off is a must before draining the tank incase crud sticks in the OEM valve.
 
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While it works to unclog, you are only getting 20%ish I bet. You need to get that product that is a whip that goes inside and breaks up most of the sediment on the floor that is cement like.


That is a good way to trash the protective coating inside the tank.
 
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