No you wouldn't, because then you'd have to stop using it!
I don't think you'll see it happen without an impact wrench.
antisieze compound on lugnuts??
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No you wouldn't, because then you'd have to stop using it!
I don't think you'll see it happen without an impact wrench.
I use one that's marine grade. Not sure what's in it. If anyone cares, I'll read the can and post it.
I have read that with alloy wheels it is reccomended to re-torque the nuts after driving awhile. That would be whether one applies anti-sieze or not.
So... that clouds the issue some. A lugnut could back off after applying anti-sieze and torquing once. But was it the the anti-sieze that caused it? Not necessarily.
So... that clouds the issue some. A lugnut could back off after applying anti-sieze and torquing once. But was it the the anti-sieze that caused it? Not necessarily.
I'll add some more cloud cover
The nut might not even be backing off. I could be the steel nut becoming better acquainted with the softer aluminum wheel and releasing stud tension without the nut turning. Once tension gets low enough, it will turn though.
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I am old enough to remember when retorquing was recommended and they didn't even make cars with alloy wheels!
I suspect the advise for alloy wheels is that steel wheels have some "spring" built into the lug hole, where alloy wheels typically don't. It's been my experience that alloy wheels need retorquing much more often than steel wheels, but occassionally a steel wheel will need one, so they are not immune.
I hope the administrator kills this thread.
If testing for bolt stretch and are worried about antisieze, also try rusty bolts and rusty lug nuts (siezing compound I guess). You'll probably end up with inconsistent torque on the bolt pattern and warped wheels/rotors/drums.
I had to saw off the long threaded fastener on the clamp holding the full size spare under my son's truck. The assembly could have had 1/8in of play and looked fine when checking torque.
I had to saw off the long threaded fastener on the clamp holding the full size spare under my son's truck. The assembly could have had 1/8in of play and looked fine when checking torque.
We used to call that (insert your favorite minority) loctite.
Whew, nutty thread...but I read it all.
I do a lot of DIY wheel work. I used to use Li grease, it seemed practical. Now I have cheap nickel anti-sieze for lugs and copper for plugs. The Cu stuff specificly says for plugs in an aluminum head.
Anyway, I don't use a torque wrench. I hand-tighten with a breaker bar. I'll approximate the feel of a wrench-torqued install. A gross method, but I get a nice even balance on the lugs. I understand and compensate for the breaking and starting effect. That's why I like using the anti-sieze. it make the tightening (for me) more smooth and predictable. iirc, the torque is applied at a given distance from the center of rotation. So, 100ft/lbs means half my weight applied a foot from the lug. I don't really care how accurate it is as long as the wheel stays on. When I break them off, the "feels-right" force seem to be the same as when I put them on. What's wrong with that?
In my area, when mechanics see the bolt rather than the nut, they whine about how much harder it is to set the wheel on the hub for the 1st lug to go on. To me, it's obvious that the old nut-on-stud arrangment is inferior when it comes to corrosion. With the bolt going in, like on my imports, the threads are protected from the elements, add the anti-sieze and you get improved duty.
I do a lot of DIY wheel work. I used to use Li grease, it seemed practical. Now I have cheap nickel anti-sieze for lugs and copper for plugs. The Cu stuff specificly says for plugs in an aluminum head.
Anyway, I don't use a torque wrench. I hand-tighten with a breaker bar. I'll approximate the feel of a wrench-torqued install. A gross method, but I get a nice even balance on the lugs. I understand and compensate for the breaking and starting effect. That's why I like using the anti-sieze. it make the tightening (for me) more smooth and predictable. iirc, the torque is applied at a given distance from the center of rotation. So, 100ft/lbs means half my weight applied a foot from the lug. I don't really care how accurate it is as long as the wheel stays on. When I break them off, the "feels-right" force seem to be the same as when I put them on. What's wrong with that?
In my area, when mechanics see the bolt rather than the nut, they whine about how much harder it is to set the wheel on the hub for the 1st lug to go on. To me, it's obvious that the old nut-on-stud arrangment is inferior when it comes to corrosion. With the bolt going in, like on my imports, the threads are protected from the elements, add the anti-sieze and you get improved duty.
"nutty thread".........you clever jokester.
For even more laughs, try your patience with this duplicate 3 page thread at the Tundra forum. Some engineers are involved and it is good OCD reading.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/44792-anti-seize-lug-nut-studs-why/
Here's yet another slant. If the OEM's are using Dacomet to factory lubricate the studs, then additional lube maybe isn't changing the torque as much as "dry vs. lubed".
My conclusion is that their must be HUGE safety factor built into wheel fasteners for them to survive anti-seize and/or king kong air wrench grease monkeys.
So, for best torque:
Clean, dry threads are best, IF practical.
Dirty,rusty threads are bad (undertorque)
Excessive anti-seize with gorilla arm/maxi air wrench
is bad.
Light anti-sieze with commons sense torque is o.k. and over comes many worse problems, ie, galling, salt rust,etc,
The same way companies tell you to keep petroleum lubes away from brake parts,I wonder if the no lube on lugs is because of the sloppy manners of old-time garage gorillas.
For even more laughs, try your patience with this duplicate 3 page thread at the Tundra forum. Some engineers are involved and it is good OCD reading.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tires-and-wheels/44792-anti-seize-lug-nut-studs-why/
Here's yet another slant. If the OEM's are using Dacomet to factory lubricate the studs, then additional lube maybe isn't changing the torque as much as "dry vs. lubed".
My conclusion is that their must be HUGE safety factor built into wheel fasteners for them to survive anti-seize and/or king kong air wrench grease monkeys.
So, for best torque:
Clean, dry threads are best, IF practical.
Dirty,rusty threads are bad (undertorque)
Excessive anti-seize with gorilla arm/maxi air wrench
is bad.
Light anti-sieze with commons sense torque is o.k. and over comes many worse problems, ie, galling, salt rust,etc,
The same way companies tell you to keep petroleum lubes away from brake parts,I wonder if the no lube on lugs is because of the sloppy manners of old-time garage gorillas.
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