Anti-squeal grease for brake pads

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It's not what is in between the contact surfaces that helps with squealing, it is the large area of sauce on the back of the pad that absorbs vibrations.
You don't want any foreign substance between the pad and piston.
 
Have you ever seen ATE/TEVES pads that come with an adhesive on the backing plate? I would think that ATE knows very well where the adhesive needs to be.
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On my car the front pads come with such an adhesive (called "pad underlayer design") right out of the box. If the pads are removed for some reason, the adhesive has to be completely removed and anti-squeal compound should be applied before reinstalling the pads. The rear pads do not come with an adhesive.

The factory manual shows exactly where to apply anti-squeal compound. This includes the face (ring shape) of the caliper piston where it makes contact with the backing plate, the backing plate, and the spots where the backing plate hooks into and contacts the caliper frame.

I strongly advise The Critic to check his factory repair manual for specifics.
 
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By the way, depending on the brake setup, copper paste can get on and ruin the ABS sensors. That's why on modern cars with ABS, copper paste is usually not used as anti-squeal and why there are other products, including ceramic, sensor-safe lube.
 
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The ABS sensors I'm familiar with work off magnetic principles. I don't see how copper-based compounds can affect the sensors. However, the nickel-based compounds can have an effect.
 
I remember copper paste was a no-go on my '89 Scirocco due to possible ABS sensor issues. BMW stopped using copper paste a long time ago. They now use Plastilube:

plastilube.jpg
 
Now that we have disected anti-squeal products to the nth. degree, I wonder how many brake shops keep and use all of these different products for each different application?

My point? I wonder how much it really matters.
 
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We wouldn't be BITOGers if we didn't go to the nth degree on everything. Otherwise, I agree. I just use the goop Mori presented on everything. Easy to stock, guaranteed to work.
 
A little update.

The Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube that I purchased can be used for many applications, including application to the shims of disc brake pads. Apparently, the "disc brake quiet" formulations (rubbery goop) is catered toward brake pads that are NOT shimmed, AFAIK.

I think that brake manufacturers, like one poster stated earlier, want to allow some movement of the brake pad.

Here's a data sheet (application instructions) from Permatex for their Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube:

Quote:


PRODUCT DESCRIPTION S.I.N.: 834-300
Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube is a green,
environmentally friendly, non-melting, pure synthetic lubricant.
It is formulated to lubricate under the most adverse brake
conditions, assuring that critical caliper pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons remain lubricated throughout pad life. Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, that is water and corrosion resistant properties, is excellent on rolling and sliding surfaces operating in wet or dry conditions from -40°F to +400°F. It is compatible with internal and external brake rubber and plastic hardware, including ethylene-propylene rubber.
PRODUCT BENEFITS
• Prevents disc brake squealing
• Prevents long bolt and sleeve seizing and galling
• Outperforms ordinary caliper grease and traditional disc
brake quiet
• Non-silicone, non-petroleum based formula
• Pure synthetic lubricant, environmentally safe
TYPICAL APPLICATIONS
• Long and short bolts
• Sleeves
• Bushings
• Outboard pad backing plate
• Inboard pad backing plate

• Disc brake calipers
• Caliper pins
• Pistons
DIRECTIONS FOR USE
1. Wirebrush the caliper housing and anchor plate to
remove all dirt and dust.
2. Apply Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube to all
moving caliper hardware, mating surfaces and steel
backing plates of the disc brake pads.

3. Any excess grease that squeezes out from the mating surfaces should be removed.
Note: Keep lubricant off pads and rotors.


 
The question is, which one is better?
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1.

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Backing plates, brake pad contact points, caliper o-rings, calipers, disc brake pads, drum brake systems, grommets, parking brake areas of lubrication, pivot points, self adjusters




2.

24110.jpg
 
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Apparently, the "disc brake quiet" formulations (rubbery goop) is catered toward brake pads that are NOT shimmed, AFAIK.

I think that brake manufacturers, like one poster stated earlier, want to allow some movement of the brake pad.




You do realize that many brake pads have an adhesive on the backing, right? You peel off the protective film and pads will adhere to the caliper. The adhesive does allow some brake pad movement, just like the rubbery goop does. The rubbery adhesive, I guess, is the only way to reuse this type pad, should you have to remove pads for any reason (for example torn piston boot).

CRC makes okay stuff, so why not use that?
 
looking at your pics i just realised that #2 on your list is what i used to use when i wrenched. never had a comeback.

now at ford we use diaelectric grease, its what ford wants us to use.
 
Dear Sir:



Thank you for you interest in CRC’s products. You had inquired whether it was better to use Disc Brake Quiet over Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for quieting brake noise on your shimmed brake pad. We would recommend using Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease for your shimmed brake pads. Disc Brake Quiet is meant for usage on non-shimmed brake pads. The Disc Brake Quiet’s tackiness will cause the shimmed pad not to work properly. Additionally, the Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease will cut down on the corrosion on the brakes. Please let us know if you have any additional questions."

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You told the CRS tech person that your car had shimmed brake pads, but you never told us that. I don't think you even mentioned to us about what car this all was.
 
I thought I said that I was using Duralast GOLD pads, which are shimmed. Guess not.
 
Critic,

Here's some more stuff for you to study and confuse your decision. I reached the same point as you: CRC vs. Permatex vs. Sil-glyde (they all work good). But I went with the stuff at the following site cause I'm a sucker for marketing and I like to try new things (like Zaino):

http://www.gwrauto.com/gwrmain.html Check out the paste lube with 40% moly and Ceramlube, which is the product Bendix is now promoting (check their site). The Paste Lube is a rubber safe alternative for us who "used" to use petroleum based anti-seize before we got internet educated.

Both CRC and Permatex are PAO synthetics, I believe. The CRC has less than 2% moly - I contacted them. So, they are very similar products in my opinion.

The Ford Dielectric mentioned above is silicone grease. Dow's site says this type of grease is for metal to rubber lubrication (not Metal to metal). But, it must be working for Ford?? Go figure.

A common(?) opinion is to use the synthetic or silicone type lubes for the caliper pins with rubber bushings and use a boundary lubricant such as the Paste Lube for the exposed metal to metal parts.

And, here's an excellent article (I think) that covers all the bases about brake lube:

http://aa1car.com/library/2005/ic80560.htm

Have fun!!!!!!!

Criminy - this post is so old I forgot that I already posted most of this same info back in February!
 
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I thought I said that I was using Duralast GOLD pads, which are shimmed. Guess not.




Exactly.

Get used to it that there are different types of brake pad designs. My OEM pads are shimless, and I like it that way. If you have to futz around with shims, do it. Loose shims, grilled shims, shim with or without adhesive, use whatever is required, or, it it's all way too confusing, have someone do it for you.
 
i used the green stuff on the caliper pins/bushings and the Duralast Gold pads with shims on the civic...not a sound from them!
 
Anyone seen the new Disc Brake Quiet stick from Loctite? It's a tacky, sticky material that you apply to the contact areas of the pad and caliper and between shims. The stuff cures when you bed the brakes, so you don't need to wait for it to dry. I always found the liquids and sprays messy... Check it out...

http://www.toolfetch.com/media/43879.jpg
 
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