Anti seize on the threads of a lug nut but never on a chamfer. A dab in the hub portion of a hub centered wheel goes a long way too. Studs have very little elasticity. With anti seize, torque on the low side of the range. There is a chart somewhere out there that has reassigned torque values depending on lubricant and bolt / stud grade. I believe I saw this in Pocket Ref (little black book). I have seen rusty studs on cars break in hard corners, but never anti seized studs. When you anti seize it does require some diligence to periodically check torque. Manufacturers do not apply anti seize on the the wheel studs as well as mechanics because it is less likely to back off. Liability reason. But if you do your own work, anti seize is the way to go especially in corrosive environments. I buy my vehicles new and keep them for a long time. When they are new, many parts are removed and anti seized. Years later the parts come off easily. The only part I had work loose was an exhaust manifold shield which was torqued to about 40 in / lbs.