Anti-seize?

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Actually the most recent thing I used antiseize on was my trucks bed bolts when I did the fuel pump. And when I remove the drive shaft I lube the u joint bolts with some antiseize. Whats wrong with you people that cant find uses for it.
 
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I have used anti-seize for years, it's not something you will appreciate in 30 days. When your out in the woods/field trying to repair something that's been together for 10 years, and you get it apart with hand tools and minimal swearing...you will appreciate the anti-seize.
 
yeah anti-seize is something your appreciate years down the road. Either because you put it on or the previous owner did and just made your life easier.

and the gold rule with anti-seize: a little goes a LOOONG way.

I mainly use copper for O2 sensors and any other exhaust related threads.

I use the the silver colored stuff from the little packets on spark plugs (which I think is nickel?)

NEVER have and never will use it on lug nuts though. Lug nut torque values are given for dry threads.
 
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Anti seize on the threads of a lug nut but never on a chamfer. A dab in the hub portion of a hub centered wheel goes a long way too. Studs have very little elasticity. With anti seize, torque on the low side of the range. There is a chart somewhere out there that has reassigned torque values depending on lubricant and bolt / stud grade. I believe I saw this in Pocket Ref (little black book). I have seen rusty studs on cars break in hard corners, but never anti seized studs. When you anti seize it does require some diligence to periodically check torque. Manufacturers do not apply anti seize on the the wheel studs as well as mechanics because it is less likely to back off. Liability reason. But if you do your own work, anti seize is the way to go especially in corrosive environments. I buy my vehicles new and keep them for a long time. When they are new, many parts are removed and anti seized. Years later the parts come off easily. The only part I had work loose was an exhaust manifold shield which was torqued to about 40 in / lbs.
 
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Unfortunately Honda does not know anti-seize exists.
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About lug nuts: there is friction between the stud & nut (the thread) but also between the nut and the wheel (the conical/spherical seat)
A little anti-seize on the thread is allright IMO as long as the seat is clean & dry.

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+1 for whoever mentioned putting it on the outside of bearing caps of u-joints. So much easier to press it out by hand the next time around.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I just have a question for all of you...

What do you use anti-seize for? You can't use it on spark plugs, you can't use it on lug nuts, so what do you use it for?

what the [censored] you talking about? i use it on everything never any problems...


I'm serious.

GM says specifically to not use anti-seize on the spark plug threads, I think this was on the Ecotec. NGK says anti-seize is not needed either.

Lug nuts should not see anti-seize either. My O2 sensor came with some kind of goop already on the threads. What's left?


I never do a winter/summer tire swap without ever adding a dab of anti-seize on each nut. In the north climate where salt and garbage corrode the metals fast, anti-seize really helps on wheel studs.

I don't care what some manual or even a company says. I use it and I'm happy with the results.

I dont bother with spark plugs. I sometimes add a tiny bit of motor oil to the thread to install them and thats it.
 
Is it just a Northern thing to use anti-seize on lug nuts or studs? I've *never* heard of anyone here in Florida doing that.
 
Originally Posted By: bigmike
Is it just a Northern thing to use anti-seize on lug nuts or studs? I've *never* heard of anyone here in Florida doing that.


I just use anti seize on the hub where it mates with the wheel. I have had wheels get frozen to the hub. I have never put anti seize on lug nuts, there are warnings in many owners manuals not to do this.
 
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Originally Posted By: bigmike
Is it just a Northern thing to use anti-seize on lug nuts or studs? I've *never* heard of anyone here in Florida doing that.


I just use anti seize on the hub where it mates with the wheel. I have had wheels get frozen to the hub. I have never put anti seize on lug nuts, there are warnings in many owners manuals not to do this.



Ok, so is it a Northern thing to do so to the hubs? I've never seen this occurrence in any of my vehicles. I'm just wondering if it's a salt/snow thing or ??
 
I've had a wheel rust to the hub to the point of having to pound a sledge hammer on it to get the wheel off. I would think that salt would accelerate this rusting.

I haven't had any such problems since I started using anti-seize on the hubs. I don't anti-seize the lugs.
 
I've kept a car in Florida for a few summers. Coastal Florida is downright horrible for corrosion. Cars corrodes in Florida about as badly as they do in Michigan, though the corrosion pattern is slightly different. I'd definitely worry about seized lug nuts.
 
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