Anti seize on plugs or not

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Do you guys use anti seize when swapping out spark plugs. I recall a blurb at one time about non anti seize due to proper grounding of the plug...
 
I personally don't use it any more due to the fact that there is a coating (albeit how good of one I'm not sure) on plugs these days already to aid in removal of the plug after it's useful life. After having had plugs both weith and without, I say stick without it as there really wasn't much difference in plug removal effort on my part, and it saves getting that wonderfully hard to get off silver colored goop off of the hands.
 
Quote:
. . . and it saves getting that wonderfully hard to get off silver colored goop off of the hands.


I brush it on with an acid brush; it works it in between the threads that way too.
 
I use it because 4 of 5 of my vehicles have aluminum heads and I'd hate to take the threads out along with the plug. I've never had any problems with plugs that had anti-seize on them. Another good idea is to only remove the plugs after the head is completely cool. I also use dilectric grease on the plug boots to seal out any moisture and to make it easier to remove the boots.
 
I use it on just about everything and have never had a problem with fasteners backing out. I have heard the grounding thing about plugs and believe that's urban myth.
 
Just use a little. Too much can run down and cause misfires.
Also it can make a plug run hot [but that is pretty rare].
I like taking plugs out of aluminum heads when they are warm. The aluminum expands more than the steel plug, and thing come apart with less grief.
 
Side of the can of Cu anti-sieze says ideal for plugs in aluminum heads and improves electrical contact(s).
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Just use a little. Too much can run down and cause misfires.
Also it can make a plug run hot [but that is pretty rare].
I like taking plugs out of aluminum heads when they are warm. The aluminum expands more than the steel plug, and thing come apart with less grief.


Do you mean just "warm" or somewhere near operating temperature?

The FSM for my '92 Lumina (aluminum head V6) doesn't recommend, it tells you to remove the plugs with the engine COLD.
 
I let things cool down a bit - I get less burns and pain that way.
I have had many plugs stick trying to get them out cold.
Warm/hot has been better, in my experience.
I suppose that the Mfr. would recommend cold because of the possibility of the aluminum being weaker at extreme high temps, and a dirty plug could strip it. Otherwise, why would you want the aluminum contracted tight against the plug [when cold]?
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Just use a little. Too much can run down and cause misfires.
Also it can make a plug run hot [but that is pretty rare].
I like taking plugs out of aluminum heads when they are warm. The aluminum expands more than the steel plug, and thing come apart with less grief.


That's been my experience. If a plug doesn't easily come out of a cold aluminum head, I warm the engine up and gently try again. It usually works.
 
With the genius design of Ford's 3v 5.4 motor, you HAVE TO use nickel anti-seize on the spark plug shroud. Otherwise the plugs stick to the heads, and break off when you remove them.
 
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