Who knows where that wear metal came from, probably several places in the engine - probably that engine will never be the same again after that 1k oil change interval with 0W-5 oil. Probably the only thing he can do is put back the 5W-30 and request a warranty claim on the engine at the dealership.
Another "Taxi" Study: Relationship of Engine Bearing Wear and Oil Rheology 872128
- Thread starter AEHaas
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Stock and low performance set ups use top down oiling where the mains and rods get whats left over - because it's cheap and easy.
I always run priority main oiling systems in all my own builds where I get to choose the block, which is the opposite of the above where the lower end gets the oiling priority - for exactly the reason pictured. Especially Marine engines.
I had an '06...belive it was 5W20. No issues with it at 10 years/135K before we sold it. Neighbor had an 09 that burned oil like crazy but they also did the quickie lube place and likely didn't take good care of it.
Did not read all the replies but what happens when you introduce engines with more cylinder pressure than engines with roughly 36-41hp per liter or rev limits over the lower mid 5k to this test?
Kaboom is probably what! My Golf works out nearly 200hp/liter and sees the ~7K redline about every day. For those types of applications, as I read all the folks here saying...those engines have to have special design criteria incorporated into them.
Yes the 2005 to 2007 have VCM version 1, which doesn't have the defect which causes oil burning.
The 2008 and newer models have VCM version 2, which have the oil burning engine design defect.
I have two 2006's and two 2007's. They are very cheap on the used car market, and very smooth and luxurious inside.
I only buy the EX-L's with the Navigation and DVD screens.
I like them since they are very safe vehicles with a low death per million vehicle years on the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety website:
Driver death rates by make and model
One way to compare the relative safety of vehicles is to look at driver death rates.
www.iihs.org
Interstering and thank you for that info! Our van was a great family hauler. EX-L w/nav + dvd as well. Very comfortable road tripper with a family of 5. We had a few noteable issues namely...that stupid VCM and the subseqeunt failing very $$$ motor mount. Also lost the power steering rack (ouch!). One of the most expensive to own vehicles we ever had but no sour grapes...it happens....and folks say VW's are a handful...our Honda said hold my beer! We had an older Accord (90 - wife's in college) and Civic (94 - my daily commuter) and both were decent vehicles...always liked Honda.Yes the 2005 to 2007 have VCM version 1, which doesn't have the defect which causes oil burning.
The 2008 and newer models have VCM version 2, which have the oil burning engine design defect.
I have two 2006's and two 2007's. They are very cheap on the used car market, and very smooth and luxurious inside.
I only buy the EX-L's with the Navigation and DVD screens.
I like them since they are very safe vehicles with a low death per million vehicle years on the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety website:
Driver death rates by make and model
One way to compare the relative safety of vehicles is to look at driver death rates.
Our neighbor's '09 had I want to say 150K on it? She came over one night and wanted me to look at it....CEL on etc. etc. I scanned it, Google, found it was likely low on oil. Pull dipstick...dry. Ok, went to store, got a qt. of oil. Added it. Dip stick still dry. Added 2 more. Unreal! They traded it shortly after (smart).
In my case the electric sliding doors are the most expensive repair. Dealers are the only mechanics who are willing to work on them.
I needed 2 sliding door repairs and bill was over 2,000 for that. Parts are expensive and dealership labor is now $199 an hour and they pad it with like 3.5 hours labor from their labor rate "book" which they wrote when it's probably really like 45 minutes labor.
Flat rate is the way it is like it or not. My son is a tech, this is how they make money b/c for every so many of the 3 hours jobs that take 45 min, there is the 1 hour book rate job that takes 2 days that they don't get paid for. It's a double-edged sword for sure. Sounds like a good one to learn the DIY on...ours never had issues fortunately.
The "need" or not to do something is and always should be left up to the decision of the person in control of their car, etc ... and that pretty much also goes with everything in life.
The discussions here are focused mainly on the science and controlled testing, and technically showing why thinner oil leads to more wear, etc ... not based on who should make the decisions for who about using anything related to taking care of a vehicle - nobody has ever said you "need" to run abc or xyz ... apparently some people read way between the lines IMO. People can read the technical information, the controlled and even the "anecdotal tests", etc and decided what they think is right and make a decision for themselves from there ... like "Should I run 0W-5 in my engine to get more HP and MPG".
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These posts get awfully close to telling people they are crazy (actually they do many times) for running the oils (thin in this discussion) they choose to and that beyond the interesting technical discussion. I don't believe Ali has ever told anyone what to run or advocate for running anything nutty like the 5W in his SUV.The "need" or not to do something is and always should be left up to the decision of the person in control of their car, etc ... and that pretty much also goes with everything in life.
The discussions here are focused mainly on the science and controlled testing, and technically showing why thinner oil leads to more wear, etc ... not based on who should make the decisions for who about using anything related to taking care of a vehicle - nobody has ever said you "need" to run abc or xyz ... apparently some people read way between the lines IMO. People can read the technical information, the controlled and even the "anecdotal tests", etc and decided what they think is right and make a decision for themselves from there ... like "Should I run 0W-5 in my engine to get more HP and MPG".
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Same with my wife's aunt. Same year i believe, 150k miles when sold. Always used 5W-20. No burning, no discernable consumption.
That V6 was smooth and actualy quite punchy. Loved that van. Folks crack me up when they say "I'll never be caught dead in a mini van" meanwhile they have kids....nobody thinks you are cool anyways I hate to break it to them! For us with 3 kids, it was a great vehicle.
And nobody has told him (or anyone else here) that they "need" to run a thicker oil to reduce wear. They basically say running a thicker oil could reduce wear or prevent damage, and technically show with supporting information why that's the case. People can look at the technical information and decide for themselves
And "advocating" (to "recommend", just like engine makers "recommend" viscosities, which a lot of people do), verses right out saying that you "need" to use abc or xyz are not the same thing. He advocates a lot about running thinner oils, but he doesn't elude to saying "you need" to run thinner oils, just like others advocate a lot to run a bit thicker oils based on the science of Tribology and the supporting testing data.
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That's pure speculation, assuming a grade not thinner than recommended. The fuel savings is real.
20 weight oil is ok, it's stood the test of time. But, I prefer a higher HTHS oil that has extra an extra protection cushion in case car is used in severe service.
So you're saying that higher HTHS doesn't give added wear protection? ... read what he said. Can you show scientific proof that HTHS doesn't matter in terms of engine protection and wear rates?
After all of this, I guess the science of Tribology is void and cancelled.
All that's needed for you ... not necessarily "needed" for all. And how do you know just being "adequate" enough is actually providing the same level of engine wear protection? Like mentioned in this thread, Ford thought 5W-20 was "adequate" for a long time in some of their engines, but seems they've changed their minds on that. But hey, if it's "adequate" for you, that's all that matters ... but it may not be "adequate" enough for others that want some more engine protection, just like Bill7 mentioned. And what he said is true based on the science of Tribology. Nobody can prove that increased HTHS does not give more MOFT, which in turn gives more wear protection. The people who want that do what it takes to achieve that ... go a bit thicker, since "adequate" enough isn't always good enough.
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