Another option for bypass filter setup

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I have been looking at bypass setups. The amsoil setup is too expensive for me right now. Baldwin has a setup that can be put together. It would consist of either a baldwin b50 filter (5inches long) or a b164 filter (7 inches long) and a head that baldwin sells that fits the threads of these filters. The kicker is that both filters have an orfice that regulates flow built into them, so only plumbing needed would be straight from the oil sending unit to the filter head and back to the valve cover. The filters are around 10 dollars and are listed as 2 microns nominal and 12 microns absolute.

Might not do quite as good a job as the amsoil or other setups but should cost about 1/2 of other setups and be much easier and cheaper to get replacement filters.

Dan
 
Dan,
The B-50's are definitely a viable solution for ByPass filtering. I had a Baldwin B-50 setup on my 98 Chevy K3500 6.5 Diesel. I used a Como oil filter sandwich adapter (no longer available) to tap into oil flow. It worked very well as I saw significant improvement in UOA results after installing it. The last time I bought some B-50s (a few years ago) they were under $4 each and the mount was under $20. A few more $$ for hose and fittings and your done. I still have about 8 B-50's left after selling my 98 so I'm currently gearing up to put a B-50 mount on my 2001 Chevy Malibu’s 3.1L V6. I plan to tap oil flow at the Oil Pressure switch and return through the filler cap using a swivel fitting I bought from AMSOIL. I have all the parts just need time to install. I plan to post pics if anyone is interested. The B-50's are cheap enough to make changing at every oil change practical. (If I didn't already have the B-50's I would probably use an OilGuard like I have on my Duramax Diesel).
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Two microns nominal and twelve microns absolute? For a bypass filter to be of much valve it should be absolute to well below one micron and be nominal to 1/20th of one micron. Most soot is well below one micron. Your oil filter is a poor place to try to save money. I don't know why you would want oil that still gets dirty and needs to be changed. I have two filters that cost me less than 30.00 over 30 years ago. One is over 40 years old and saved me many thousands of dollars before I retired it.

Ralph
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Ralph,

The main purpose is to have a bypass when one cannot afford the first line setup. Also, I like building stuff myself.

Logic of this is that it is better to have 12 microns than just the full flow filter at minimal cost until i can do better.

Dan

[ June 30, 2003, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: Dan4510 ]
 
i would like to know more about this setup it is very appealing to me right now (low in funds). have any one of you emailed baldwin about there filters and how they compare to the TP and amsoils filter setup? what is special about these filter threads that they have to have a special spin on head? Bill please send me some pics when you get this project done [email protected] thanks
 
Instigator,
When I originally put the B50 on my 98 6.5 I called the Baldwin Tech support number and they sent me a data sheet on the filter and it is rated 2 micron nominal and 12 micron absolute as Dan quoted. As Ralph points out there are better alternatives but they are more expensive initially.

Regarding the mount, the B50 thread is 5/8-18. For more info go to BadwinFilters dot com and use the product guide to access info on the B50 and OB1305 mount. Hope this helps.
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quote:

Originally posted by Dan4510:
The filters are around 10 dollars and are listed as 2 microns nominal and 12 microns absolute.


Dan


So how can you consider this by-pass filtration?? 12 microns absolute, you can almost get this from Tradition FF filters.

Take a look at the Amsoil single remote filter. Or Oil guard. For less than $200 you will then get true by-pass filtration. With over 3 microns absolute and less than 1 mic nominal.
 
All of you continue to miss my point on this. I am a broke student right now. I cannot afford $200 for a setup like this right now. However, I can afford $40. It still gets 50% of the 2 micron particles and a high percentage of those between 5 and 15 microns which by several studies I found cited, cause most of the wear. Which is much better than any ff filter.

I agree that there are much better alternitives out there.

In this case half a bite is better than none.

Dan
 
Dan,

I have a Frantz hanging upside down on an air cooler diesel at work. I am converting everything to Motor Guards. I'm glad to see a young guy that likes to build stuff and is trying to better himself by going to school. I was young once. I'll bet I can fix you up with enough old parts to put together a very good system. I have a mount off a diesel pickup.
Your engine doesn't know the difference between the Frantz, Motor Guard or Gulf Coast. Put anything less on an engine and it will complain. Let me know what kind of engine you have and what filter you like the best. Frantz or Gulf Coast.
That seems to be about what most experts say. Most engine wear is caused by abrasives in the five micron to ten micron range. The problem is the smaller stuff just keeps building up in the oil until it bunches up. I do the shotgun approach and remove everything larger than cigarette smoke particles; anything smallere than 1/10th of one micron is usually diluted to a safe level by new oil added at filter change. I gave up changing oil in 1963. If I change oil it is to try a different brand of oil or maybe when I buy a used car and don't know what is in the engine.
I just installed a heavy duty Gulf Coast 0-1 on a new 6.0 Powerstroke that was removed from an almost new 7.3 Powerstroke. The 7.3 took much shorter hoses. I have two hoses that are like new. I accumulate things. Let's communicate on what you need. Don't spend 40 bucks on junk.

Ralph
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Ralph,

One question. Is it ok to plumb this filter into a sandwich adaptor as is shown on the web page so that it feeds back into the high pressure of the oil system, or does it need to dump back into the valve cover?

Dan
 
Dan,

I have an old Frantz sandwich adapter that you could use. Normally you would need to drill out the orifice on the Motor Guard. Some slant sixes had a long nipple that reached down into the full flow filter. We cut that off to use the Frantz sandwich adapter. Actually the filters worked better with a sandwich adapter because they reduced the stress on the element. The slant six took a #1750 Frantz adapter the same as Fords 3/4-16 threads. The Perma-Cool adapter for that is the 771-181 in jegs.com catalog. The Frantz adapter is old, used and free if you want it.

Ralph
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The Baldwin B50 has pleated paper media - this is not a bypass filter in my opinion.

You can use an Amsoil bypass filter on the Baldwin B50 filter head - all that is required is a thread adapter to go from 5/8" to 1". Anyone with a lathe can make one for you from a 1" NF bolt in about 10 mins. I have a number of these installations out there and have never had a problem, even in heavy equipment. Wix also makes an inexpensive filter head that is identical to Baldwin's.

Amsoil's bypass filter is probably one of the best in terms of performance/convenience.
 
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