Another Example of Poor Build Quality

I don't know if I missed the part where someone covered it(and I'm aware this is an old thread), but I see it was mentioned that the 48v system charges the 12v system in the Ram. This is where the problem is. You don't want to jump start a vehicle with a traditional alternator with a vehicle that does not have a 12v alternator. The alternator's voltage regulator smoothes the power being introduced to the vehicle. It's possible that the alternator on the other vehicle damaged something on the Ram because of this. I would expect something similar if I jumped my VW from my Tesla. It's why I keep a jump box around in case of a dead battery. You don't want to introduce dirty power into a system that does not have the ability to safely accept it.

Nevermind, all over a plug. 😂. I'd still be careful jumping from this type of electrical system.
 
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I don't know if I missed the part where someone covered it(and I'm aware this is an old thread), but I see it was mentioned that the 48v system charges the 12v system in the Ram. This is where the problem is. You don't want to jump start a vehicle with a traditional alternator with a vehicle that does not have a 12v alternator. The alternator's voltage regulator smoothes the power being introduced to the vehicle. It's possible that the alternator on the other vehicle damaged something on the Ram because of this. I would expect something similar if I jumped my VW from my Tesla. It's why I keep a jump box around in case of a dead battery. You don't want to introduce dirty power into a system that does not have the ability to safely accept it.

Nevermind, all over a plug. 😂. I'd still be careful jumping from this time of electrical system.

TBH, I cringe whenever I sell a set of jumper cables. Compact Li-ion jumpers are affordable now... about $100 for a typical one. I do think everyone should have one. Are they perfect? No. Can they fail? Yes. Do you have to remember to charge it periodically? Yes. But the risk of jumping a modern car, especially a hybrid or EV, the traditional way is just too high IMO. There is NO way I would EVER jump anything with my Volt or jump it with jumper cables.
 
I service a friend's 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the V6 Diesel. Nice to have the filter on top, but the factory filter is EXPENSIVE! Like $70...
I noticed a rubber weatherstrip missing under the hood; they replaced it on one of the numerous recalls.

But Debbie still loves her GC!
I had that engine in a MB and the filters were not expensive. Got them for $10 on Rockauto....Mann factory filters. Did Chrysler put different unique filter housings on them??
Wait is it the MB v6 or the Italian v6? I was thinking it was the MB one. In that case, a GC filter is way more than a MB filter????
 
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TBH, I cringe whenever I sell a set of jumper cables. Compact Li-ion jumpers are affordable now... about $100 for a typical one. I do think everyone should have one. Are they perfect? No. Can they fail? Yes. Do you have to remember to charge it periodically? Yes. But the risk of jumping a modern car, especially a hybrid or EV, the traditional way is just too high IMO. There is NO way I would EVER jump anything with my Volt or jump it with jumper cables.
I keep one, a 1000A NOCO in my vehicle at all times.
 
Very true.

I work in tech, and I don't fear technology, I fear what the technology allows manufacturers to do to lockdown repairs. EVs for example, there will be aftermarket support that catches up (watch youtube, there are people modding Teslas already) but my fear is when things get locked down due to security and software reasons and it turns into either A. one place only to repair (dealer) or B. the vehicle becomes even more disposable.
IE: John Deere
 
I know you're just being sarcastic and facetious, but my wife bought a 2008 Chrysler Crossfire Roadster brand new back in the day, and it was built in Germany alongside the SLK cars from Mercedes, and the hard working Germans forgot to tighten the nut in the front left fender well that just happened to be the main grounding point for a number of computers in the car.

It wound up blowing out the BCM, SKREEM Unit, and some other module several times over the first few months of ownership, until the dealership finally decided to investigate what all those computers had in common, and finally located the loose nut.

I can't even remember how many different trips that specific loose nut caused us to make to the dealer, but int he end, after 3 years with the car, our desire to keep owning it was snuffed out. Over $21k worth of warranty work was performed in those 3 years, and ultimately, if the right nut or bolt is left loose at the time the vehicle is assembled, yes, it might actually make the vehicle a big expensive pile of junk.

All it takes is 1 employee to miss the wrong bolt, and the owner of that car can have a horrible ownership experience.

Additionally, badly trained techs at the dealership who can't follow a wiring diagram and diagnose a persistent electrical gremlin thoroughly will only make that bad experience even worse than it already was.

Hell, here's the Crossfire Forum post from March 2009, only 4 months after we bought it:

BC.
That's too bad because those were good cars and still bring good money today because of that.
 
The old days and fix it yourself are gone for now but they may return very quickly when the Russians or the Chinese Use an EMP bomb on us. All the new technology will be totally useless. That old Nova will be worth so much that you may need to sleep with it and a shotgun.
Those old VW bugs will be worth a lot of money!
 
I had that engine in a MB and the filters were not expensive. Got them for $10 on Rockauto....Mann factory filters. Did Chrysler put different unique filter housings on them??
Wait is it the MB v6 or the Italian v6? I was thinking it was the MB one. In that case, a GC filter is way more than a MB filter????
Dunno. All I can tell you is the dealership wants big bucks; I used a different brand. I forget...
Just checked RA; the Wix is $7, the Mann is $44 and the Mopar is $48. Silly.
 
TBH, I cringe whenever I sell a set of jumper cables. Compact Li-ion jumpers are affordable now... about $100 for a typical one. I do think everyone should have one. Are they perfect? No. Can they fail? Yes. Do you have to remember to charge it periodically? Yes. But the risk of jumping a modern car, especially a hybrid or EV, the traditional way is just too high IMO. There is NO way I would EVER jump anything with my Volt or jump it with jumper cables.
I have always and will always jump start people from my car or truck, but if it was a hybrid or full electric car I would have to decline to be safe. I hooked up to the dead battery first.
I always wanted a booster pack but it would probably not be required before it fails due to age and the price is usually more (or at least close to) a battery. So I would rather buy an extra battery that fits at least one of my vehicles, and use it to boost instead of a booster pack. I can't bring myself to spend $150 Canadian on a booster pack when I could buy a battery for that.
I do have a decent smart charger, which I put on every battery we have periodically..... weekly on my truck since i use it all day for work and it spends a lot of time with radio on and engine off...or just "awake" because I have to keep opening doors to get files or equipment in and out.
 
I have always and will always jump start people from my car or truck, but if it was a hybrid or full electric car I would have to decline to be safe. I hooked up to the dead battery first.
I always wanted a booster pack but it would probably not be required before it fails due to age and the price is usually more (or at least close to) a battery. So I would rather buy an extra battery that fits at least one of my vehicles, and use it to boost instead of a booster pack. I can't bring myself to spend $150 Canadian on a booster pack when I could buy a battery for that.
I do have a decent smart charger, which I put on every battery we have periodically..... weekly on my truck since i use it all day for work and it spends a lot of time with radio on and engine off...or just "awake" because I have to keep opening doors to get files or equipment in and out.
With technology changing it's just a risk of how one car's alternator can affect another electrical system. I'd have no problem using another battery either. If it was possible to get enough juice for a jump without waiting forever, I'd say skip starting the other car to be safe, but then the car that is doing the jumping is at risk when the dead car fires up and the alternator starts making power.

Especially in the case of EVs, I wouldn't bother trying. That's the perfect scenario to use a low powered approach to start it. It just needs enough to tell the car to turn on and then the big battery will charge the 12v. I'd be curious to see what actually would happen hooking a battery box or jumpers to a new Tesla. I would not have an ICE running while doing it. Mine has a 16V lithium battery. I'm not sure I could use my NOCO jumper on it or not. To be honest I've helped jump a number of vehicles over the years and I think I feel safer just using the jump box these days. I don't want to risk damaging something on my car to help someone else. I'd never want to be left stranded and if I'm in a situation where I can help someone I do not shy away to offer. The NOCO box also has a built in flashlight and USB charging outputs to use it as a bit power bank for electronics.
 
When my 2009 Flex was 6 days old, I was checking out the engine bay and found the airbox lid loose, I found they forgot to install a filter inside the airbox!! The local Ford dealer made a house call and installed the filter. I called Ford Canada and registered this as a flaw, with the idea that if at some point the engine failed due to ingestion of debris, I would have this snafu on record. I wasn't impressed at Ford Oakville Assembly. However, they get the complete airbox assembly from a Tier 1, who is supposed to ensure the filter is installed.

At 12.5 years and 249,000km later, the engine is just fine.
Someone stole your filter at the dealer.
 
I have always and will always jump start people from my car or truck, but if it was a hybrid or full electric car I would have to decline to be safe. I hooked up to the dead battery first.

You can't really jump start a fully electric car.

What you can do, and it does work, is tow them with their ignition on, and their regen set to maximum.
A short tow can give them a good amount of range.
 
I will agree that today there are less vehicles that are completely junk (like Pinto's, Vegas, etc. Economy cars were just throwaway junk back then.
The penalty boxes(Versa/Sentra, Accent, Rio - and when Toyota and Honda still sold them in the US, the Yaris/Echo/Tercel and Fit) are a far cry from the excuses Detroit tried to pass when Toyota and Honda first started to bring the Corolla and Civic over - and VW later on broke into the US market with the Rabbit/Golf.
 
Last winter I jump started a womans Sierra from my F150, in the Super store parking lot. To keep my F150 safe, I hooked up the jumper cables, and ran my motor at about 2000 rpm to spin the alternator faster, did that for about 5 minutes, with her sitting in my truck to keep warm, it was bitterly cold. Then I unhooked the jumper cables, and started her Sierra up...I stayed with her for another 5 minutes and we sat in my truck, while hers warmed up some. It seemed to be running fine, and charging, so I told her that if she wanted to we could go to Canadian tire, about 5 minutes away, and park beside each other, go into the store and get her a new battery, and I would change it for her. We did just that, I always carry some basic tools with me, swap took 20 minutes because I took warm up breaks twice. I gave her my phone number and asked her to text me when she got home safely.
It worked out perfectly, and I feel that by unhooking the cables before I tried to start her Sierra, i reduced the risk to both of our vehicles. Sitting for 5 minutes transfers a good amount of power to the dead battery.
 
I like jumper cables. They're useful when you have 4 old batteries and none of them can start a car on their own, but if you string all 4 together you can get enough amps to start the car. I also have an abundance of old batteries that don't have much capacity left, but still put out 12v long enough to start a car like twice.
 
Last winter I jump started a womans Sierra from my F150, in the Super store parking lot. To keep my F150 safe, I hooked up the jumper cables, and ran my motor at about 2000 rpm to spin the alternator faster, did that for about 5 minutes, with her sitting in my truck to keep warm, it was bitterly cold. Then I unhooked the jumper cables, and started her Sierra up...I stayed with her for another 5 minutes and we sat in my truck, while hers warmed up some. It seemed to be running fine, and charging, so I told her that if she wanted to we could go to Canadian tire, about 5 minutes away, and park beside each other, go into the store and get her a new battery, and I would change it for her. We did just that, I always carry some basic tools with me, swap took 20 minutes because I took warm up breaks twice. I gave her my phone number and asked her to text me when she got home safely.
It worked out perfectly, and I feel that by unhooking the cables before I tried to start her Sierra, i reduced the risk to both of our vehicles. Sitting for 5 minutes transfers a good amount of power to the dead battery.
Was there a second date?
 
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