Another Auto-RX Filter Pic

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Here is a photo of the filter from my 88 F-150, 5.0 liter, taken between the treatment and rinse phases (supposedly there should be even more crud after the rinse). A-RX was applied at 142K into whatever dino I had lying around , and run for 3K. Vehicle has been in my possession for the last 60K and had 3-4K dino OCIs'.

As bad as the crud looks in the photo, it doesn't do justice to the actual. Many of the folds were like the ones on the left in the picture.

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Curious - As far as I know, the only way a circulation system can work is for the filter to preceed the bearings. The filter protects the bearings, which side-leak to the pan. I must admit though that I don't like to think about it going through the oil pump, even if the clearances there are relatively loose.

Pablo - I'll send you the rinse filter and let you do the honors ...
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Same stuff I saw in my filter with AutoRx and rinse. Spooky as it feels gritty between your fingers, but then seems to smooth out as you rub it.
 
All the guys that think they know, say full flow filters are not needed...Some times preconceived notions get mixed up with facts.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Steve S:
All the guys that think they know, say full flow filters are not needed...Some times preconceived notions get mixed up with facts.

Too bad that the filter prior to the treatment was not cut open, then you would probably see a clean filter. Use RX and of course you need the filter to capture the crud. Now, how did the crud get there in the first place with this wonderful appendage called a full flow spin on filter?
 
Is there a prescribed or standard method or opinion for how long the filter paper should dry before making an assessment like this? It seems to me that letting it dry really well, as this appears, might give the impression of the crud looking extra crystalline and abrasive, like rock candy on a stick, when in fact it could have been relatively smooth and benign in actuality. Not saying it's not a concern, but just wondering about comparing apples to apples?
 
Tosh -
There is no prescribed method. After cutting apart about eight filters, three of which had residue removed through the use of A-RX, I can give you my general impression. Note - the five debris-free filters were on non-A-RX situations.

In my experience the appearance of the particles which were captured does not change appreciably as the oil drains away. The particles might possibly (or not) show up better due to any oil disguising them being drained away, but the point is that you WANT to see what would not normally be there.

Also, the issue is not what the crud looks like, but the quantity which has been removed. Your apples to apples test relative to mine would be comparing a dry filter which would have no flushed out debris.

Plus, as someone else mentioned, the crud has no particular substance when pressure is applied, so the looks are again irrelevant. The most important thing is that it is now in the filter, not in the ring grooves.
 
Slightly
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Here's an idea for an experiment:

Someone should stop by an Iffy Lube and take a poll of people as they come in (to find out oil change history, filter type, oil type, etc) and then cut open and examine the filters.

Assuming that most people that don't change their own oil probably would not use ARX, it would give a fairly good idea of what a non-ARX filter looks like. Somewhat more scientific, no? At least the sample size would be more significant, and you wouldn't have to wait 12 months or 12,000 miles to collect 4 samples.
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Hmmm... maybe a good science project idea for the kiddies.
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Awww, c'mon guys, you are making a mountain out of a molehill! When did we develop questions about what a filter looks like? Have you ever cut open a filter yourself? If you had, you would know that they look exactly like the one in my picture, but without ANY crud, it's that simple! You will also have many A-RX filters with zero visible deposits, because there are not always deposits to be taken.

Now if you want something to discuss, think up the best way to cut open a filter without either getting metal shavings into the element, or dislodging the filtered crud off the element when chiseling the can. If I had not chiseled the can, the picture would also show everything which was shaken off during that process.

[ June 15, 2005, 12:14 AM: Message edited by: TooManyWheels ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooManyWheels:
You will also have many A-RX filters with zero visible deposits, because there are not always deposits to be taken.


Mine fit that category on 3 vehicles, but all 3 engines looked clean when I started.

The one that showed a big improvement in running also didn't leave noticable crud in the filter. I think it got rid of a small amount of crud in the rings. Not enough crud to show up in the filter.
 
Mine too. Any crud must have been localized and limited. This probably isn't the case with many Auto-Rx users. My HLAs may have evidenced more transitional noises with Auto-Rx ..but the total crud count may have not amounted to much in terms of dislodged chunks ..it may have been all liquified films/coatings. I'm sure all engines gets some deposits somewhere inside them ..not all form sludge strutures that disintergrate in the granular manner that we see in the filter picture.
 
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