Wow. That's crazy. Here in Ontario Canada we see lots of vehicles rusted out in less than 10 years old. Usually people's reasoning for not undercoating was they forgot or didn't have time or just they new every 5-6 years.
Analysis of this!!! (Rust)
- Thread starter BISCUT
- Start date
I don't like the threads on that tie rod end but that can be replaced, same as the lower control arm. It probably won't need it until front end service time.
There's something about the pattern of rust that makes me uneasy, it's like I have a spidey sense for accelerated rust. It suggests you drove in the salt then parked in a hayfield or something. Like you know how some cars get awful rusted rotors after a week but others don't? Your truck is, from this picture, a rust magnet that would have those brakes.
Like said above, wire brush what you can and goop it all in wool wax. Honestly a clingy grease would be good for those tie rod ends. When my wife's car was brand new I got her some steelie snow wheels but the axle nuts are naked to the world. I greased them with generic red grease before anything else hit them and of course sand stuck to the grease making a mud, but I know it'll come off if I need it to.
Go under the bed for all the dumb stuff like EVAP canister brackets, spare tire carriers etc that are historically not engineered and rustproofed as well as the rest of the truck. Get the fuel and brake lines particularly at the line nuts.
There's something about the pattern of rust that makes me uneasy, it's like I have a spidey sense for accelerated rust. It suggests you drove in the salt then parked in a hayfield or something. Like you know how some cars get awful rusted rotors after a week but others don't? Your truck is, from this picture, a rust magnet that would have those brakes.
Like said above, wire brush what you can and goop it all in wool wax. Honestly a clingy grease would be good for those tie rod ends. When my wife's car was brand new I got her some steelie snow wheels but the axle nuts are naked to the world. I greased them with generic red grease before anything else hit them and of course sand stuck to the grease making a mud, but I know it'll come off if I need it to.
Go under the bed for all the dumb stuff like EVAP canister brackets, spare tire carriers etc that are historically not engineered and rustproofed as well as the rest of the truck. Get the fuel and brake lines particularly at the line nuts.
I’m a fan of amsoil heavy duty metal protector. It’s good stuff and seems to last all winter.
Get whatever you want clean and dry and apply as late into the season as you can. Maybe do another application in February if it’s starting to wear off.
Get whatever you want clean and dry and apply as late into the season as you can. Maybe do another application in February if it’s starting to wear off.
Spray the rusted areas with this:
It works really well, and doesn't wash off easily like Fluid Film does.
Daubert Chemical
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It works really well, and doesn't wash off easily like Fluid Film does.
Krown claims that even if it's product appears to be washed off, there is still a microscopic layer of protection there. That suggests that our perception of needing a thicker, more adhesive coat in high wash areas is unfounded (at least with their product)?
Krown also pushes the idea that the most important time to be concerned about rust protection is not fall and winter, it is spring and summer when the higher temperatures are more conducive to rust.
I question how an excellent product like Trav recommends (Noxodol) can creep into the tiny crevices being that it is wax-like. Can it plug the tiny weep holes at door bottoms, maybe elsewhere? Sure, maybe that research link proves it works great on flat surfaces, but vehicles have so many tiny seams. Just hypothesizing.
Finally, if you are prone to washing your car frequently (especially with soap), I cannot imagine many oil products stay put, just like they wash off your hands in the sink with soap/water.
Krown also pushes the idea that the most important time to be concerned about rust protection is not fall and winter, it is spring and summer when the higher temperatures are more conducive to rust.
I question how an excellent product like Trav recommends (Noxodol) can creep into the tiny crevices being that it is wax-like. Can it plug the tiny weep holes at door bottoms, maybe elsewhere? Sure, maybe that research link proves it works great on flat surfaces, but vehicles have so many tiny seams. Just hypothesizing.
Finally, if you are prone to washing your car frequently (especially with soap), I cannot imagine many oil products stay put, just like they wash off your hands in the sink with soap/water.
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No biggie. Just have a can of your favourite rust inhibitor around ( I use Krown), and spray all the rusted areas and especially all threaded connections every time you take a wheel off or put it on a ramp every spring and fall and give it a few shots. Wear goggles and some breathing protection.
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