An update on my 3rd to 4th flare

[Carnoobie]

You know what ive noticed? Its still the norm, where I can be on a flat road and with light throttle and shifting at 2500rpms, it'll flare 100-200rpms going from 3rd to 4th. WHEN trans and ATF is hot. been like this for over a year now.

But now I found out (and I didnt know this) it doesnt matter what speed im going at when shifting into 4th or if im going up a hill, itll flare each time if I let it shift between 2000 and 3000rpms.

I can be going up a hill or slight hill in 3rd in D and i apply more gas but if i let it shift between 2000 and 3000rpms it will still flare and flare bit worse like 400rpms. Im guessing the extra flare has to do with the extra throttle and line pressure in the trans?

I have accustomed my driving so that if Im in drive in 3rd and shifting to 4th, I throttle it so that I shift over 3000rpms and no flare.

I guess this is why the other day i happened to be in D in 3rd and didnt realize I was about to shift to 4th at about 2800rpms, and as I was watching the tach, got like a 400rpm flare. I was like HOLY ****!!!! Was really worried about the extra flare (400 vs 150-200). Im guessing its from the extra throttle? I thoght it was only on flat roads but guess not.

 

[nicholas]

400rpm shift slip is not good - aren't you using lubeguard?
This product totally eliminated any shift flare that my versa had.

You may want to take the civic into the shop and try and recreate the shift for a tech.

Good luck.

 

[Carnoobie]

Yes Im using LGR, for about a month and a half now.

I dont know if im seeing things or exagerating so im going to do more experimenting today and get it on video for me to rewatch and you guys to see.

The guys at the shop will just say get new trans, I cant do that....if thats the case then ill just break the bank, give up my life financially and get a new car.

 

[Carnoobie]

I just came back from testing some more. I really wish I got the other day on tape cause im not sure if the 400rpm flare im possibly exxagerating. Good chance it was only 200rpm like it usually is. But I tried going on the same roads that had the flares on and couldnt get it to happen again.

From what I notice when I shift from D3 in 3rd to OD for 4th at the min. speed limit allowed for it to shift away (which is 60kmh on my car), so once I hit 60kmh I shift to OD, it shifts right away with light to medium throttle and no flare.

No if I shift from D3 to OD and say it stays in OD for 5+ secs or longer before it shifts to 4th between 2000-3000rpms then it will flare.

So take that for what its worth. Will shift from D3 (3rd) to OD (4th) right away at any rpm with no flare but if im in OD for 5+ secs or longer then it will flare 150-250rpms.

 

[surfstar]

Originally Posted By: Carnoobie

The guys at the shop will just say get new trans, I cant do that....if thats the case then ill just break the bank, give up my life financially and get a new car.


Or you could learn to work on your car and swap in a 5spd for a few hundred dollars.

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: Carnoobie

The guys at the shop will just say get new trans, I cant do that....if thats the case then ill just break the bank, give up my life financially and get a new car.


Or you could learn to work on your car and swap in a 5spd for a few hundred dollars.


Few hundred haha ya not that easy and two few hundred wont even get you half the parts required. Trust me ive looked well into it long ago.

 

[Carnoobie]

I just came back from testing some more. I really wish I got the other day on tape cause im not sure if the 400rpm flare im possibly exxagerating. Good chance it was only 200rpm like it usually is. But I tried going on the same roads that had the flares on and couldnt get it to happen again.

From what i notice if the car is in OD for longer than 4-5secs after its been shifted from D3, then it will flare each time. when I shift from D3 in 3rd to OD for 4th at the min. speed limit allowed for it to shift away (which is 60kmh on my car), so once I hit 60kmh I shift to OD, it shifts right away with light throttle and no flare. Even medium throttle (around 2700rpms) it wil shift with no flare.

Now if I do heavier throttle (around 2800rpms) and shift from D3 to OD when I hit 60kmh and say it stays in OD for 4-5 secs or longer before it shifts to 4th between 2000-3000rpms then it will flare.

Will shift from D3 (3rd) to OD (4th) right away at any rpm with no flare but if I apply heavier throttle, since the shift point changes, if im in OD for 5+ secs or longer then it will flare 150-250rpms.

LEt me know what you think. This has to mean something. So thats why its very critical of me having to throttle past 3000rpms when im about to shift into 4th in OD. Like merging.

 

[R2d2]

"or you could learn to work...." This is Carnoobie your talking about, its never going to happen. He's waiting to be selected by Donald Trump for the Apprentice.

 

[Carnoobie]

anyways back on topic

 

[jjcom]

A transmission shop maybe better able to help you with your problem. There's other factors playing into how the computer commands the transmission to shift. If your TPS has a dead spot, the car may think it's under less throttle than reality during the shift, causing it to shift softer which then causes a flare. Temperature sensor reporting the wrong value can have an affect on shift quality, as well as engine condition. If the motor has a miss on a shift, the car can delay shifting. You may not have even have a transmission problem, but an engine sensor problem.

 

[Carnoobie]

Originally Posted By: jjcom
A transmission shop maybe better able to help you with your problem. There's other factors playing into how the computer commands the transmission to shift. If your TPS has a dead spot, the car may think it's under less throttle than reality during the shift, causing it to shift softer which then causes a flare. Temperature sensor reporting the wrong value can have an affect on shift quality, as well as engine condition. If the motor has a miss on a shift, the car can delay shifting. You may not have even have a transmission problem, but an engine sensor problem.


I had a trans shop check it out back in January. I got him to do a pressure test on the trans and he said the pressure in the 2/4 solenoid (my car has two, 2/4 and 1/3) was bit lower than the rest so he adjusted the solenoid to bring the line pressure up for that gear and went for a test drive. It did nothing so he readjusted the pressure to where it was before. We tested the solenoids and they were fine.

Had my TPS tested with a some gauge a few days after and tested fine. The idle and WOT readings were fine and was no big gaps or jumps in the readings when going from idle to WOT.

The temp sensor im sure on, how would i go about testing this or looking more into it?

AS far as i know my engine condition inside is very good. Oil changes every 7k KM with 5W-30 and had a compression test done on it last spring and the numbers were spot on.

 

[tommygunn]

Originally Posted By: R2d2
"or you could learn to work...." This is Carnoobie your talking about, its never going to happen. He's waiting to be selected by Donald Trump for the Apprentice.


You should hire him as your personal mechanic. See what happens.

"The bolts on your seat feel loose, I tightened them but they feel loose, and I replaced them but I can hear them when i sit in the car, they sound loose. Its destroying my life."