An idea for keeping rings clean(er)

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Aug 7, 2020
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I've been thinking about this for a while and maybe some who are more knowledgeable or experienced can tell me if this will be helpful in keeping rings clean.

I drive in hilly areas and often I'll put the car in a lower gear and close the throtte when descending a hill. I have heard that doing so will create a vacuum that can draw oil up to and through the rings. Does that actually happen? And if it does, will the oil create additional flow or turbulence that might mitigate the rings from building up carbon or help keep drainage holes clean, in other words, help to keep the rings functioning as intended?
 
it will keep rings free, because the rings that normally see pressure from above now get it from the bottom and they start moving in the grooves.

Essentially you're engine braking, I always do that before I apply the wheel brakes (and I might not need to).
 
I had a motorcycle engine builder that recommended early high workloads to make sure the rings were seated well. He recommended doing this on a steep uphill followed by engine braking on the steep downhill. He thought the downhill engine braking vacuum was just as important as the high pressure uphill. Again, he related this to ring performance. Maybe you're on to something....
 
Every single time you coast the engine (coming to a stop; lifting off the throttle when behind someone going slower; etc) you create this vacuum. Doing so happens all the time. It's even happening when the engine is at idle (typically high vacuum period).

I seriously doubt your plan to focus on this is going to make a hoot's worth of difference.

N/A engines have this more than turbos. Gas engines more than diesels, because most diesels have no throttle plate.
 
because most diesels have no throttle plate.
Whaaaa.....?

I always heard that because diesels are fuel injected, you're "stepping on the air", not stepping on the gas (so to speak).
Does this mean diesel throttle response (wait..there is no throttle?) ..a diesels ability to rev up, is done just by increasing fuel delivery?
Not asking for a lesson. I got some Googling to do.
 
Yes diesels run lean of stoichometric except when the pedal's floored because the pedal only controls the fuel.

Lack of throttles means lack of natural engine braking, so you have to add a Jake brake or similar contraption.

My Merc 240d, naturally aspirated, DID have a throttle plate though it was fitted very loosely in the intake. Seems like it was to create a vacuum for the PCV system.

Back to OPs question, you can create an even greater vacuum under decel than you can at idle. If you believe in its positive effects, engine braking is the most effective way to get it. That being said, I've had around eighteen Saturn S-series which are known for "bad rings", half stick shift, half automatic. The sticks will have had more engine braking but I noticed no discernable difference between transmissions.
 
What if they’re already full of junk
I've freed up stuck rings on neglected Kubota engines by putting synthetic PAO ester hydraulic fluid in the cylinder and leaving it over the weekend.
Then Monday morning I fire them up and they smoke like a train for a while but at least all cylinders are firing again.
Of course before this I've already cut the oil filter open in search of forbidden glitter to see if it's even worth trying to save and checked the injectors and injection pumps.
 
Whaaaa.....?

I always heard that because diesels are fuel injected, you're "stepping on the air", not stepping on the gas (so to speak).
Does this mean diesel throttle response (wait..there is no throttle?) ..a diesels ability to rev up, is done just by increasing fuel delivery?
Not asking for a lesson. I got some Googling to do.
Yeah - no throttle plate. Part of why diesels are more efficient. Lower pumping losses.

When you step on the “gas” you are injecting more fuel, not more air.

Air flow depends only on the RPM of the engine.

My 1981 Mercedes had a “throttle” pedal, and it was connected to the injection pump. More “throttle” meant more fuel delivered from pump through injectors.

If you traced the air flow path from the air cleaner, there was no obstruction all the way to the intake valves - just wide open.
 
You can get the engine warm. Shut it off then fill the crank case/entire engine full of kerosene or diesel let it sit for and hour drain the oil/deisel. Fill it with an inexpensive oil and put on a new filter. Run it for 10 minutes and do another oil change. Cured an oil burning Honda R18 doing this. I even pulled the plugs to make sure the cylinders were full. Just an idea I got from my grandfather he said it's how he kept his old Ford tractor cleaned out.
 
https://marinetech.com/yamaha-outboard-ring-free-pluss-fuel-additive-12ounce.html

acc-rngfr-pl-12-mainimage01-yamaha_outboard_ring_free_plus_fuel_additive_quart_12_ounce.jpg


Just drive the car....
 
If there was indeed a vacuum in the cylinder why do you think it would necessarily pull in oil vs air? The crankcase has a lot of oil but there is air on top of the oil. Oil is thrown at the cylinder walls and there is a lot of splashing of oil that also hits the cylinder walls.
 
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