Amsoil vs Mobil 1 EP oil change price.
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More amsoil haters than fan boys. Its a strange phenomena how some people get so hostile at the very mention of it.
I suppose some used it extensively but just wasted it by not using it to its fullest and now that they realize they wasted so much money their bitter and sore about it. Some just can't believe its greatness. Some are intimidated cuz their afraid its better than some ideal they formed or adopted concerning some particular brand. Its comical
I suppose some used it extensively but just wasted it by not using it to its fullest and now that they realize they wasted so much money their bitter and sore about it. Some just can't believe its greatness. Some are intimidated cuz their afraid its better than some ideal they formed or adopted concerning some particular brand. Its comical
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I dunno why people all over the web love to compare m1 to Amsoil. Its really over complimenting m1. Their not in the same league in my opinion. M1 is a typical synthetic. M1 ep is built for modest extended oci. Amsoil is built for greatly extending your oci. If your only going 10 to 15 k with amsoil your throwing your money away. If amsoil cannot extend beyond that in your application, you need to just follow your reccomended oci and use the recommended oil and see if that's reasonabl for your situation. Amsoil isnt right for every situation.
AMSOIL specifically states, as per the verbiage I quoted earlier, that 15K is the limit for any application classified as "severe service", which was also defined in what I quoted.
Any extended drain programme should consist of regular UOA's to establish the acceptable limits for the machinery and lubricant. Arbitrarily running a lubricant several times the OEM interval because the lubricant is rated for "up to" that number is foolish as every application is different and places different demands on the oil.
M1 EP and AMSOIL SS are both extended drain oils and subsequently are both comparable. If the AMSOIL product is capable of longer drains than the Mobil product in a given application, then it makes more sense to use that product. And this assumes you are operating within the limits set by both companies, which indicates a maximum OCI of one year, and, as noted in AMSOIL's verbiage, a maximum of 700 engine hours.
I dunno why people all over the web love to compare m1 to Amsoil. Its really over complimenting m1. Their not in the same league in my opinion. M1 is a typical synthetic. M1 ep is built for modest extended oci. Amsoil is built for greatly extending your oci. If your only going 10 to 15 k with amsoil your throwing your money away. If amsoil cannot extend beyond that in your application, you need to just follow your reccomended oci and use the recommended oil and see if that's reasonabl for your situation. Amsoil isnt right for every situation.
AMSOIL specifically states, as per the verbiage I quoted earlier, that 15K is the limit for any application classified as "severe service", which was also defined in what I quoted.
Any extended drain programme should consist of regular UOA's to establish the acceptable limits for the machinery and lubricant. Arbitrarily running a lubricant several times the OEM interval because the lubricant is rated for "up to" that number is foolish as every application is different and places different demands on the oil.
M1 EP and AMSOIL SS are both extended drain oils and subsequently are both comparable. If the AMSOIL product is capable of longer drains than the Mobil product in a given application, then it makes more sense to use that product. And this assumes you are operating within the limits set by both companies, which indicates a maximum OCI of one year, and, as noted in AMSOIL's verbiage, a maximum of 700 engine hours.
I have taken amsoil 0w30 to 2 years 25k on 4 occasions in my Yukon. My wife still drives it after well over 300k. M1 5w30 was wiped out in my wrx after a couple thousand. I think I gave it 4 tries before I switched to redline 5w30.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I have taken amsoil 0w30 to 2 years 25k on 4 occasions in my Yukon. My wife still drives it after well over 300k.
Quote:
M1 5w30 was wiped out in my wrx after a couple thousand.
Those two anecdotes are mutually exclusive. The WRX is much harder on oil than the Yukon. And how did you determine "wiped out", did you do a UOA or is this solely an opinion on the oil's condition?
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
On the other hand, the full-SAPS 5w-40 worked extremely well in our 328i with no consumption. The AZO 0w-30 worked well in our Honda 9.9 outboard.
Each application is different and will allow for a different interval. If you did have an issue, since you were not following AMSOIL's conditions for the 25K service, their warranty would not apply to you. It is nice to see that you had good luck with the product, did you knowingly not follow the guidelines?
I have taken amsoil 0w30 to 2 years 25k on 4 occasions in my Yukon. My wife still drives it after well over 300k.
Quote:
M1 5w30 was wiped out in my wrx after a couple thousand.
Those two anecdotes are mutually exclusive. The WRX is much harder on oil than the Yukon. And how did you determine "wiped out", did you do a UOA or is this solely an opinion on the oil's condition?
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
On the other hand, the full-SAPS 5w-40 worked extremely well in our 328i with no consumption. The AZO 0w-30 worked well in our Honda 9.9 outboard.
Each application is different and will allow for a different interval. If you did have an issue, since you were not following AMSOIL's conditions for the 25K service, their warranty would not apply to you. It is nice to see that you had good luck with the product, did you knowingly not follow the guidelines?
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Justin251
I bought $110 worth of sopus oil yesterday at about $2.75 a quart. Mostly full synthetic.
What do I need amsoil for?
You don't heck seems like you don't need this site looks like you got it all covered.
I've still got 40 qts of Mobil 1 EP 0w20 too.
I like cats and engines and enjoy reading about them and others experiences. Not too mention the discussions about addpacks are interesting to me.
My cars aren't special and don't need special boutique oil. Not that I don't think amsoil isn't a fine product. It's just not for me price wise.
I have no problem using conventional but this site has helped me find synthetic for the same price or cheaper.
Originally Posted By: Justin251
I bought $110 worth of sopus oil yesterday at about $2.75 a quart. Mostly full synthetic.
What do I need amsoil for?
You don't heck seems like you don't need this site looks like you got it all covered.
I've still got 40 qts of Mobil 1 EP 0w20 too.
I like cats and engines and enjoy reading about them and others experiences. Not too mention the discussions about addpacks are interesting to me.
My cars aren't special and don't need special boutique oil. Not that I don't think amsoil isn't a fine product. It's just not for me price wise.
I have no problem using conventional but this site has helped me find synthetic for the same price or cheaper.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I have taken amsoil 0w30 to 2 years 25k on 4 occasions in my Yukon. My wife still drives it after well over 300k.
Quote:
M1 5w30 was wiped out in my wrx after a couple thousand.
Those two anecdotes are mutually exclusive. The WRX is much harder on oil than the Yukon. And how did you determine "wiped out", did you do a UOA or is this solely an opinion on the oil's condition?
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
On the other hand, the full-SAPS 5w-40 worked extremely well in our 328i with no consumption. The AZO 0w-30 worked well in our Honda 9.9 outboard.
Each application is different and will allow for a different interval. If you did have an issue, since you were not following AMSOIL's conditions for the 25K service, their warranty would not apply to you. It is nice to see that you had good luck with the product, did you knowingly not follow the guidelines?
I realize it not an entirely fair comparison between the 2. I wouldn't expect anything to last as long in the wrx but longer than a couple thousand or less really.
Yes I ran uoas on the m1 in the wrx. It was my introduction to oil obsession and all. Before that car I had no idea that people ran uoas on motor oil. Heck I just thought oil was oil then and that there was synthetic and conventional. I really thought it was just taken out of the ground and cleaned up. My step dad believed that Pennzoil was no good cuz they had to add things to it and qs was better cuz it was just pure oil. I believed what he believed lol. Was clueless.
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I have taken amsoil 0w30 to 2 years 25k on 4 occasions in my Yukon. My wife still drives it after well over 300k.
Quote:
M1 5w30 was wiped out in my wrx after a couple thousand.
Those two anecdotes are mutually exclusive. The WRX is much harder on oil than the Yukon. And how did you determine "wiped out", did you do a UOA or is this solely an opinion on the oil's condition?
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
On the other hand, the full-SAPS 5w-40 worked extremely well in our 328i with no consumption. The AZO 0w-30 worked well in our Honda 9.9 outboard.
Each application is different and will allow for a different interval. If you did have an issue, since you were not following AMSOIL's conditions for the 25K service, their warranty would not apply to you. It is nice to see that you had good luck with the product, did you knowingly not follow the guidelines?
I realize it not an entirely fair comparison between the 2. I wouldn't expect anything to last as long in the wrx but longer than a couple thousand or less really.
Yes I ran uoas on the m1 in the wrx. It was my introduction to oil obsession and all. Before that car I had no idea that people ran uoas on motor oil. Heck I just thought oil was oil then and that there was synthetic and conventional. I really thought it was just taken out of the ground and cleaned up. My step dad believed that Pennzoil was no good cuz they had to add things to it and qs was better cuz it was just pure oil. I believed what he believed lol. Was clueless.
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
I would say so! My Detroit 60 12.7L with 424,000 on the motor after rebuild doesn't use 2 qts in 15,000 miles. Just checked last night, with just over 15,000 miles on the oil and less than a quart below the full mark. Add mark is at 1 gallon low. That is on Schaeffer 7000 15w40. Gets changed at 25,000 / 500 hrs. Not at all an apples to apples comparison, just a perspective. Seems odd the smaller motors would go thru so much oil.
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
I would say so! My Detroit 60 12.7L with 424,000 on the motor after rebuild doesn't use 2 qts in 15,000 miles. Just checked last night, with just over 15,000 miles on the oil and less than a quart below the full mark. Add mark is at 1 gallon low. That is on Schaeffer 7000 15w40. Gets changed at 25,000 / 500 hrs. Not at all an apples to apples comparison, just a perspective. Seems odd the smaller motors would go thru so much oil.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Staying in grade really isn't necessarily an issue however I know that I mentioned recently that Redline stayed in grade because it has no VII's in it, so perhaps it was that post you were referencing? It also starts out much heavier; closer to a 40-weight than it is to a traditional PCMO 5w-30 like M1 5w-30, PU 5w-30....etc.
What was your reason for deviating from the warranty terms? Just curious.
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Staying in grade really isn't necessarily an issue however I know that I mentioned recently that Redline stayed in grade because it has no VII's in it, so perhaps it was that post you were referencing? It also starts out much heavier; closer to a 40-weight than it is to a traditional PCMO 5w-30 like M1 5w-30, PU 5w-30....etc.
What was your reason for deviating from the warranty terms? Just curious.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
I would say so! My Detroit 60 12.7L with 424,000 on the motor after rebuild doesn't use 2 qts in 15,000 miles. Just checked last night, with just over 15,000 miles on the oil and less than a quart below the full mark. Add mark is at 1 gallon low. That is on Schaeffer 7000 15w40. Gets changed at 25,000 / 500 hrs. Not at all an apples to apples comparison, just a perspective. Seems odd the smaller motors would go thru so much oil.
And it is just this particular oil. It didn't use any D1 5w-40, Redline 5w-30, PU 5w-30 or M1 0w-40. Heck, I don't recall it consuming any M1 5w-20 either
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
My Expedition unfortunately drinks AZO 0w-30 like a drunken sailor, we are talking 4-5 quarts over a 10K OCI. On the other hand, it will consume zero M1 AFE 0w-30 over the same interval. Note that this is on the same vehicle and I repeated the test several times.
I would say so! My Detroit 60 12.7L with 424,000 on the motor after rebuild doesn't use 2 qts in 15,000 miles. Just checked last night, with just over 15,000 miles on the oil and less than a quart below the full mark. Add mark is at 1 gallon low. That is on Schaeffer 7000 15w40. Gets changed at 25,000 / 500 hrs. Not at all an apples to apples comparison, just a perspective. Seems odd the smaller motors would go thru so much oil.
And it is just this particular oil. It didn't use any D1 5w-40, Redline 5w-30, PU 5w-30 or M1 0w-40. Heck, I don't recall it consuming any M1 5w-20 either
Originally Posted By: Kuato
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Staying in grade really isn't necessarily an issue however I know that I mentioned recently that Redline stayed in grade because it has no VII's in it, so perhaps it was that post you were referencing? It also starts out much heavier; closer to a 40-weight than it is to a traditional PCMO 5w-30 like M1 5w-30, PU 5w-30....etc.
What was your reason for deviating from the warranty terms? Just curious.
I didn't see a reason to dump the fill when it was still good and I never believed that an oil maker will really honor a warranty if there was actually an oil related failure.
Originally Posted By: Bigdaddyeasy
I uoaed it a few times through wix and then went through Dyson and he said to change to red line 5w30 cuz m1 couldn't stay in grade do to fuel dilution. Redline stayed in grade. Sombody on her said it was because redline doesn't have vi to shear down.
Yes I knowingly ignored warranty terms with the amsoil.
Staying in grade really isn't necessarily an issue however I know that I mentioned recently that Redline stayed in grade because it has no VII's in it, so perhaps it was that post you were referencing? It also starts out much heavier; closer to a 40-weight than it is to a traditional PCMO 5w-30 like M1 5w-30, PU 5w-30....etc.
What was your reason for deviating from the warranty terms? Just curious.
I didn't see a reason to dump the fill when it was still good and I never believed that an oil maker will really honor a warranty if there was actually an oil related failure.
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Kuato
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
+1 all day long. Prime be [censored].
Originally Posted By: Kuato
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
+1 all day long. Prime be [censored].
My Walmart has M1 0W40 for $23.95-$25.95 for 5 qt. jugs and Rotella-T 5W40 for $17.95-$19.95 and Purolator filter for around $3.12-$3.74 for most automotive non-diesel applications.
Why bother with M1EP when you can get the 0W40 at such a great price. Granted they are freq. out of stock of this but not so much that you would go with out for any length of time. It easily takes the place of any 5W30/10W30/0W30 need.
In terms of bang for the buck these two oils are about as good as they get. Outside of racing or really hard use under artic conditions I fail to see where any of the M1 or Amsoil XW30 oils at any price point offering anything outside of increased cost.
I understand the above oils are not XW30 but in the case of the M1 0W40 if you sent a sample off to a lab alog with a bunch of random XW30 samples it would fall right in with them under real world conditions. If you look at real sampling of off the shelf products they almost never match the pristine numbers in the white papers. On top of that after a few thousand miles M1 0W40 normaly looks likes a XW30 then after extended drain interval it starts to thicken up. For a while it was OEM fill in a lot of high performance European engines including AMG and Porsche.
The RTS-5W40 is definitely a true 40Wt.! It goes the distance very well and always turns in nice number's.It is the cheapest name brand synthetic on the shelf.
In terms of what is in the bottle I think they should have to tell you. Looking at the white papers to try to make an educated guess as to what is in the bottle is just stupid. I do not have time for that. If I am paying a premium for a boutique oil I should not have to guess at what I am getting.
UOA combined with a peak into the top half of my engine is all I need. If I am getting low wear number's and my engine is clean on top I am a happy camper. I want to do that as cheaply as I can.
In my mind it makes perfect sense to take an OTC oil like RTS,M1 or PU and add 1-2oz per quart of Redline break-in additive and call it a day. If I could get an 100% honest answere from companies about what is in the bottle my opinion would change.
Why bother with M1EP when you can get the 0W40 at such a great price. Granted they are freq. out of stock of this but not so much that you would go with out for any length of time. It easily takes the place of any 5W30/10W30/0W30 need.
In terms of bang for the buck these two oils are about as good as they get. Outside of racing or really hard use under artic conditions I fail to see where any of the M1 or Amsoil XW30 oils at any price point offering anything outside of increased cost.
I understand the above oils are not XW30 but in the case of the M1 0W40 if you sent a sample off to a lab alog with a bunch of random XW30 samples it would fall right in with them under real world conditions. If you look at real sampling of off the shelf products they almost never match the pristine numbers in the white papers. On top of that after a few thousand miles M1 0W40 normaly looks likes a XW30 then after extended drain interval it starts to thicken up. For a while it was OEM fill in a lot of high performance European engines including AMG and Porsche.
The RTS-5W40 is definitely a true 40Wt.! It goes the distance very well and always turns in nice number's.It is the cheapest name brand synthetic on the shelf.
In terms of what is in the bottle I think they should have to tell you. Looking at the white papers to try to make an educated guess as to what is in the bottle is just stupid. I do not have time for that. If I am paying a premium for a boutique oil I should not have to guess at what I am getting.
UOA combined with a peak into the top half of my engine is all I need. If I am getting low wear number's and my engine is clean on top I am a happy camper. I want to do that as cheaply as I can.
In my mind it makes perfect sense to take an OTC oil like RTS,M1 or PU and add 1-2oz per quart of Redline break-in additive and call it a day. If I could get an 100% honest answere from companies about what is in the bottle my opinion would change.
Originally Posted By: stchman
Originally Posted By: Kuato
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
Yep I see that...worth a consideration! Thanks.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
It's a 4 hour drive from home to the nearest Walmart for me so Amsoil makes sense.
But it seems that it may be time to take a look at Amazon...
You can get Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, Schaeffer, etc. all off Amazon. After $35, shipping is free.
Quote:
Why bother with M1EP when you can get the 0W40 at such a great price.
Because it isn't two grades higher than what the mfg specifies.
Both oils have a wide and varied target market. I'm not putting 0w-40 into my duratech.
Why bother with M1EP when you can get the 0W40 at such a great price.
Because it isn't two grades higher than what the mfg specifies.
Both oils have a wide and varied target market. I'm not putting 0w-40 into my duratech.
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