Amsoil OE 5w30 - 5,000 - 1998 Toyota Camry V6

[Artem]

But the OEM pump i bought a few weeks ago also has a plastic like blade.

Granted it felt like a really hard material vs others i've touched / scraped with a razor blade while trying to decide which pump to buy.

I ended up getting the OEM which had a slighter, plastic impeller which was spinning a lot easier then another metal pumps i've seen, so i decided to go with what i think is the more "efficient" pump. Wish me luck

 

[zyxelenator]

It think most modern cars will have plastic composite impellers. Cheaper, lightweight, not wearing bearing so bad. And as you can see it worked over recommended interval.

 

[ltslimjim]

^Especially in a Honda that uses their type of coolant.

 

[chubbs1]

Really looking forward to the before and after pics of the front VC. We will see if these flushes do anything. My bet is no but I hope I will be proven wrong.

Thanks Artem!

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
It think most modern cars will have plastic composite impellers. Cheaper, lightweight, not wearing bearing so bad. And as you can see it worked over recommended interval.


It would have been fine if i changed it at the recommended interval, so i agree with you.

Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Really looking forward to the before and after pics of the front VC. We will see if these flushes do anything. My bet is no but I hope I will be proven wrong.

Thanks Artem!


I'll post the pictures in a week or so. I'm not expecting a drastic before / after difference simply because, my engine wasn't dirty / sludged up to begin with. I doubt ANY cleaner oil additive will remove the yellowing in the metal. If a few of the dirty spots are cleaner, i'll be happy with the $6 bottle of Amsoil flush that does a quick cleanup right before an oil change.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
It think most modern cars will have plastic composite impellers. Cheaper, lightweight, not wearing bearing so bad. And as you can see it worked over recommended interval.


It would have been fine if i changed it at the recommended interval, so i agree with you.



Must be a v6 thing, I have no intentions of doing anything to my I4 creeping in on 200k. Still has original tstat and cap. I am neurotic about fluids maybe that helps. The coolant gets a 1 gal radiator drain every other year. Everything runs perfect, so I'm not touching it.

 

[Artem]

I guess if you can sleep easy at night, go for it.

Me personally, after seeing this water pump crumble in my hands, i won't be doing any extended timing belt service runs anymore

 

[LeakySeals]

Agreed, whatever people think needs to be done, do it. I never needed to or wanted to replace a waterpump on any car I've owned since my first car in 1980. Some cars had almost 300k. I know people that had replacement for a rattle, some weeping through the hole. But nothing catastrophic like yours. I think your replacement pump was defective or inferior china product, and you would not have had an issue if you had just left the original which was fine. But whats done is done, I hope you will have no further problems.

 

[LeakySeals]

BTW. Was my dad that taught me to change my coolant all the time. He said if I did that, I would never need to replace anything, never have a problem with my engines. So I been doing that since 1980. so far dads wise tail is working

 

[demarpaint]

Good thing you didn't over heat it to the point all coolant was lost. I wonder what an analysis of the filter would show?

 

[Artem]

I can cut the M1 filter that's still on the Camry open to see whats inside but actually getting it analyzed by a lab... i don't know.

The filter will also go through a 15-20 min flush @ idle using Amsoil's Flush additive, so that might show more stuff in it then there actually would have been from the overheating/regular use.

It's recommended to replace the oil filter after the flush so it's going out, even though i want to run it for another 5k interval with new oil to take full advantage of it's dirt holding capacity and value.. Oh well, maybe next time, if i stop doing the Flush regimen during the OC. I bought the filter for $6 during the AAP sale so it's not THAT expensive to me.

 

[demarpaint]

You're right it would be a waste to check the filter after the flush routine. I loaded up on those filters too during that AAP sale. IMO they're a great filter for that price.

 

[Artem]

They're a great filter even at retail - $12.99.

They're just THAT MUCH better if bought on sale @ $6 each

I've been doing the Flush for several oil changes now and i honestly think the engine is now clean, even if the metal is still orange when i take off the front valve cover. The oil on the dipstick is as clean as i've ever seen it after having went through almost 6,000 miles of use in a 213,000 mile engine that is a known sludge monster.

I may put in the effort to cut it open but i doubt there will be anything of note in there. We'll see.

 

[ltslimjim]

Just keep your OCIs consistent and the PCV valve replaced timely, this car should keep on ticking.

The oil wasn't sheared down so unless there is a place simply more susceptible to heat without the factor of oil protection, your engine seems to have survived just fine.

 

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Agreed, whatever people think needs to be done, do it. I never needed to or wanted to replace a waterpump on any car I've owned since my first car in 1980. Some cars had almost 300k. I know people that had replacement for a rattle, some weeping through the hole. But nothing catastrophic like yours. I think your replacement pump was defective or inferior china product, and you would not have had an issue if you had just left the original which was fine. But whats done is done, I hope you will have no further problems.


It depends upon the engine. A water pump replacement on a small block Chevy is fairly easy, and not labor intensive. Changing a water pump buried behind a timing belt is very labor intensive, and not always easy to do. Sometimes special tools are required. I don't know about you, but after replacing a timing belt, I am not going to trust a original water pump with 200K miles on it. I have seen more than a few that have leaked coolant on to the timing belt, ruining it in the process. Now this would not be a big deal if all engines were non interference designs, but they are not. Rebuilding a head or change a water pump? I'm going to change the water pump.

The vehicles you have listed in your signature all have timing chains. That is a different story. Changing the water pump on a 1ZZ is not that difficult. And generally (except for the Chrysler 2.7 V6 and the GM 2.2 ECOTEC which have water pumps driven by the timing chains) most chain timed engines use accessory belt driven water pumps, so their failure usually does not do any other damage.