Amsoil AZO 0w30 - 10,488 miles - 06 Scion tC
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.
The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.
Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.
But it didn't start going to through oil until HE started driving and beating on it like a red-headed step child.
I'm pretty sure those things are related.
Life is short and I want to enjoy it every way possible. The car will be fine.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.
The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.
Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.
But it didn't start going to through oil until HE started driving and beating on it like a red-headed step child.
I'm pretty sure those things are related.
Life is short and I want to enjoy it every way possible. The car will be fine.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.
The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.
Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.
But it didn't start going to through oil until HE started driving and beating on it like a red-headed step child.
I'm pretty sure those things are related.
Life is short and I want to enjoy it every way possible. The car will be fine.
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.
The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.
Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.
But it didn't start going to through oil until HE started driving and beating on it like a red-headed step child.
I'm pretty sure those things are related.
Life is short and I want to enjoy it every way possible. The car will be fine.
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Hey Artem, just for the heck of it, why not try a thicker oil to see if it helps?
Amsoil XL 10W-40 or even Euro 5W-30 might make a difference. It didn't in your Si, but it might make the difference here....
I have an OC worth of Redline 5w30 leftover from when i tried it in the Si. I plan to use that up / try it after this last fill of AZO. It should be right in time for the HOT summer.
I also want to try the Euro 5w30 after that, as i was pretty happy with it in the Si as well.
Hey Artem, just for the heck of it, why not try a thicker oil to see if it helps?
Amsoil XL 10W-40 or even Euro 5W-30 might make a difference. It didn't in your Si, but it might make the difference here....
I have an OC worth of Redline 5w30 leftover from when i tried it in the Si. I plan to use that up / try it after this last fill of AZO. It should be right in time for the HOT summer.
I also want to try the Euro 5w30 after that, as i was pretty happy with it in the Si as well.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Originally Posted By: Artem
Explain to me how conventional and shorter intervals would be better?
Better mainly meaning cheaper.
I hope you isolate the problem or the consumption doesn't increase. As others said, 0W-40 or similar viscosity might be better suited for your driving style. It will certainly decrease the oil consumption. Toyota says in their owner's manuals for their latest-model cars: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds or under extreme load conditions." Unfortunately there is no Amsoil Signature Series xW-40. Perhaps give Mobil 1 0W-40 a try, which is also an extended-drain oil like Amsoil (PAO-based, high initial TBN, European extended-drain certified).
Explain to me how conventional and shorter intervals would be better?
Better mainly meaning cheaper.
I hope you isolate the problem or the consumption doesn't increase. As others said, 0W-40 or similar viscosity might be better suited for your driving style. It will certainly decrease the oil consumption. Toyota says in their owner's manuals for their latest-model cars: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds or under extreme load conditions." Unfortunately there is no Amsoil Signature Series xW-40. Perhaps give Mobil 1 0W-40 a try, which is also an extended-drain oil like Amsoil (PAO-based, high initial TBN, European extended-drain certified).
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Thank you for the understanding and dare i say it... support
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Thank you for the understanding and dare i say it... support
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Artem
Explain to me how conventional and shorter intervals would be better?
Better mainly meaning cheaper.
I hope you isolate the problem or the consumption doesn't increase. As others said, 0W-40 or similar viscosity might be better suited for your driving style. It will certainly decrease the oil consumption. Toyota says in their owner's manuals for their latest-model cars: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds or under extreme load conditions." Unfortunately there is no Amsoil Signature Series xW-40. Perhaps give Mobil 1 0W-40 a try, which is also an extended-drain oil like Amsoil (PAO-based, high initial TBN, European extended-drain certified).
The Amsoil Euro 5w30 is as close to a 40 grade as it gets, plus it's still top of the line Amsoil
I'll give that a try before i move to a 10w40
Originally Posted By: Artem
Explain to me how conventional and shorter intervals would be better?
Better mainly meaning cheaper.
I hope you isolate the problem or the consumption doesn't increase. As others said, 0W-40 or similar viscosity might be better suited for your driving style. It will certainly decrease the oil consumption. Toyota says in their owner's manuals for their latest-model cars: "The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds or under extreme load conditions." Unfortunately there is no Amsoil Signature Series xW-40. Perhaps give Mobil 1 0W-40 a try, which is also an extended-drain oil like Amsoil (PAO-based, high initial TBN, European extended-drain certified).
The Amsoil Euro 5w30 is as close to a 40 grade as it gets, plus it's still top of the line Amsoil
I'll give that a try before i move to a 10w40
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'll pull the plugs on Monday and will let you know what I find.
Before I replaced the valve-stem oil seals, the threads of the plugs would be wet with oil when I pulled them out.
Now, they are dry on the threads and only slightly brown or gray in the ceramic section when I pull them out. Any heavy ash deposits on the electrodes or the ceramic clearly indicates oil burning, as they come from the metal-containing additives (detergents, ZDDP, etc.) in the oil after it burns.
Here is a write-up of the valve-stem oil-seal replacement I did. In your case you have twice as many valves; so, it could take almost twice longer. But first determine the cause of the oil consumption.
Good luck!
I'll pull the plugs on Monday and will let you know what I find.
Before I replaced the valve-stem oil seals, the threads of the plugs would be wet with oil when I pulled them out.
Now, they are dry on the threads and only slightly brown or gray in the ceramic section when I pull them out. Any heavy ash deposits on the electrodes or the ceramic clearly indicates oil burning, as they come from the metal-containing additives (detergents, ZDDP, etc.) in the oil after it burns.
Here is a write-up of the valve-stem oil-seal replacement I did. In your case you have twice as many valves; so, it could take almost twice longer. But first determine the cause of the oil consumption.
Good luck!
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Thank you for the understanding and dare i say it... support
Yes, plus I love to see your UOA's & how they hold up on an agressiyely driven engine. In my line of work, it called "EVT High" Extreme Value Testing - High conditions. You know, to see how things hold up on the high end.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Right. I'm not criticizing you, simply explaining the correlation, as Gokhan hadn't seemed to have made it.
Thank you good Sir.
No problem. I drive my vehicles aggressively as well, so I DO understand your enthusiasm
Thank you for the understanding and dare i say it... support
Yes, plus I love to see your UOA's & how they hold up on an agressiyely driven engine. In my line of work, it called "EVT High" Extreme Value Testing - High conditions. You know, to see how things hold up on the high end.
Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'm guessing the poor Camry engine simply can't handle bouncing off the redline as well as my Si could.
Bouncing off the redline all the time? You really are a true Si driver.
The short gearing and low Rev limit in the tC is hard to get used too after coming from the Si with such a high rev limit.
Where the Vtec would JUST be engaging in the Si @ 5,800 rpm (and the fun STARTS) this engine is already at redline, outta breath and the fun is OVER. I almost want to get an engine management system and raise the rev limit to like 7,000 rpm but I doubt the engine will handle that for too long, plus it doesn't make any power past 6k anyway due to its design.
Boost is another option but I need to retain the gas mileage so its not a good idea. I suffer with it as is.
Hoping my next high revving Honda is either an S2000 or an older NSX
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'm guessing the poor Camry engine simply can't handle bouncing off the redline as well as my Si could.
Bouncing off the redline all the time? You really are a true Si driver.
The short gearing and low Rev limit in the tC is hard to get used too after coming from the Si with such a high rev limit.
Where the Vtec would JUST be engaging in the Si @ 5,800 rpm (and the fun STARTS) this engine is already at redline, outta breath and the fun is OVER. I almost want to get an engine management system and raise the rev limit to like 7,000 rpm but I doubt the engine will handle that for too long, plus it doesn't make any power past 6k anyway due to its design.
Boost is another option but I need to retain the gas mileage so its not a good idea. I suffer with it as is.
Hoping my next high revving Honda is either an S2000 or an older NSX
Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Oh man, not sure if you'd be doing all that redlining if you had my 500rwhp GTO...
Most likely he would not if you're on stock internals....
Oh come on, it can handle more then 500whp on stock internals. I'd run it HARD all day, every day. Will last for years and years with proper maintenance. Sell it before she blows
Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Oh man, not sure if you'd be doing all that redlining if you had my 500rwhp GTO...
Most likely he would not if you're on stock internals....
Oh come on, it can handle more then 500whp on stock internals. I'd run it HARD all day, every day. Will last for years and years with proper maintenance. Sell it before she blows
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'm guessing the poor Camry engine simply can't handle bouncing off the redline as well as my Si could.
Bouncing off the redline all the time? You really are a true Si driver.
The short gearing and low Rev limit in the tC is hard to get used too after coming from the Si with such a high rev limit.
Where the Vtec would JUST be engaging in the Si @ 5,800 rpm (and the fun STARTS) this engine is already at redline, outta breath and the fun is OVER. I almost want to get an engine management system and raise the rev limit to like 7,000 rpm but I doubt the engine will handle that for too long, plus it doesn't make any power past 6k anyway due to its design.
Boost is another option but I need to retain the gas mileage so its not a good idea. I suffer with it as is.
Hoping my next high revving Honda is either an S2000 or an older NSX
Artem,
An S2000 would make you an awesome car!
Originally Posted By: Shark
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'm guessing the poor Camry engine simply can't handle bouncing off the redline as well as my Si could.
Bouncing off the redline all the time? You really are a true Si driver.
The short gearing and low Rev limit in the tC is hard to get used too after coming from the Si with such a high rev limit.
Where the Vtec would JUST be engaging in the Si @ 5,800 rpm (and the fun STARTS) this engine is already at redline, outta breath and the fun is OVER. I almost want to get an engine management system and raise the rev limit to like 7,000 rpm but I doubt the engine will handle that for too long, plus it doesn't make any power past 6k anyway due to its design.
Boost is another option but I need to retain the gas mileage so its not a good idea. I suffer with it as is.
Hoping my next high revving Honda is either an S2000 or an older NSX
Artem,
An S2000 would make you an awesome car!
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