Amsoil AZO 0w30 - 10,488 miles - 06 Scion tC

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
It's interesting to observe some of the differences in UOA's of the same engines. We have an 02 Camry in the fleet with over 250K miles on it. Same 2.4 engine and it uses relatively little oil between OCI's, about 1/3 Qt at the most. ( 8-10K miles, Amsoil SSO 0W30 oil and Amsoil EaO 15k10 filter.)

It is currently driven about the same 50 miles daily as your Scion, combination of expressway and urban driving. Have to admit it just about never sees the redline and is driven pretty easy.

Also noticed the calcium level on your OCI is higher than that reported on the VOA.



This thing gets run HARD daily, so that's the difference and the reason for the oil burning.

What does the increase in calcium mean?

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
God knows how long you could extend the OCI if you keep adding a top up refresher.


It's technically coming up on 1/3rd TBN left with TAN nearing 2x the original spec as well.

Although according to Blackstone's scale, i could keep going and probably reach 15k with the TBN being 1.0 or so, I imagine TAN would be through the roof in the 7-8 range and i'm just not comfortable with that.


^This, I'd change AZO by 7.5 TAN for 'comforts sake' but as long as TBN is present there is enough active additive to neutralize the 'harmful' portion of the 'acidic' number.
Originally Posted By: REDDOG
Have you checked/replaced your PCV valve?

Time for an Amsoil air filter! Although things look good now I bet things can improve in the Fe and Cr dept with a more efficient air filter.


An Amsoil cone filter as a direct replacement of the one currently installed(unless the one installed got damaged b/c of orientation or being over-sized at all?), would probably yield slightly lower iron but the entry of Si doesn't seem to be spiking wear at all. I mean really, take away iron and it looks like virgin oil.

I've considered getting a replacement cone from Amsoil to replace the El' cheapo filter currently on there. I'll take a look at the one on there now tomorrow and see what it looks like. From what i know, no one has touched it in 40k at the minimum.

I replaced the PCV after pulling the sample. Will see if that helps the oil consumption.

 

[Turk]

Your sig shows using Dino in your Camry. What's the deal there??

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: tpitcher
Your sig shows using Dino in your Camry. What's the deal there??

decided to take it off a steady diet of synthetic (for the past 14 years) and switch to good ol' conventional.

I got a TON of it from raiding Kmart, so i gotta use it up. Plus i'm going through a Auto-RX cleaning cycle and it requires dino oil. I filled her up with PYB

I plan to switch back to Amsoil OE after the cleaning / flush cycle and do another UOA @ about 225k or so.

 

[Turk]

Ah, that's right, I remember now...

Notice any difference (can be a separate thread)?

 

[Artem]

So far so good. No difference.

I'll make a thread about it when the time is right.

 

[buster]

My Toyota used to consume about the same amount of oil and it ran like new when I traded it in with 180k miles.

 

[Artem]

Which Toyota?

I see no issues with the engine in the tC, i'm just curious as to why oil consumption went up so much, so suddenly.

The tC still runs fine and gets above EPA rated MPG on every fill up, so i'm not worried about it and don't mind adding oil every other fill up but i'd like to add less if possible.

 

[buster]

2001 Corolla with the 1.8. Used 1qt per 3k since new.

I never could find out where the oil was going.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Artem
No leaks anywhere, it's burning it. I don't know where it's going

Into your cat. And you'll know it $ooner than later.

My 05 Toyota uses (all engines USE oil) about 6 oz every 6000 miles to 1 quart for the same depending on the oil used.

My current OCI is coming up to 8000 miles (I've added 6 oz around 6k) and its just starting to come off the full mark on the original dipstick (lower total sump amount than the newer one).

I'd figure out how to lower that amount that you are using. Check the PCV system if you have not yet.

Bill

 

[Artem]

The difference with my situation is that consumption jumped up 3x suddenly.

I did start driving it 3x harder, so i'm guessing that's the main reason.

I'm temped to just let wifey drive it for the next 10k and see how much it consumes that way

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: Artem
No leaks anywhere, it's burning it. I don't know where it's going

Into your cat. And you'll know it $ooner than later.

My 05 Toyota uses (all engines USE oil) about 6 oz every 6000 miles to 1 quart for the same depending on the oil used.

My current OCI is coming up to 8000 miles (I've added 6 oz around 6k) and its just starting to come off the full mark on the original dipstick (lower total sump amount than the newer one).

I'd figure out how to lower that amount that you are using. Check the PCV system if you have not yet.

Bill


I replaced the PCV valve (the OEM with 84k on it didn't look like it was bad)

I also ran Amsoil Engine Flush for 15 minutes prior to the OC. The bottle also says that it helps lower oil consumption. We'll see...

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: Artem


I replaced the PCV valve (the OEM with 84k on it didn't look like it was bad)

I also ran Amsoil Engine Flush for 15 minutes prior to the OC. The bottle also says that it helps lower oil consumption. We'll see...


It won't I'd bet.

It will be interesting to see how long the cat lasts.

Good luck and keep us informed.

Bill

 

[Artem]

What makes you think i still have the OEM CAT on there?

For my sake (and Amsoil's), i hope the consumption slows down a bit.

 

[buster]

The CAT was fine on the Corolla I had. So was the PCV valve.

I wonder if just a certain % of engines don't fully break-in as good as they should. Next car I get will get a more aggressive break-in. However, using oil is really not an issue. The cars I have owned that use some amount of oil have been the best.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: buster
Next car I get will get a more aggressive break-in.

I hope by that you mean you will aggressively try to drive gentle. Hard driving never helps the break-in or in general.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: buster
Next car I get will get a more aggressive break-in.

I hope by that you mean you will aggressively try to drive gentle. Hard driving never helps the break-in or in general.


It helps the piston rings seat better from the get go.

WOT runs to redline on a regular basis will help keep things clean and clear for the life of the car.

 

[Gokhan]

It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.

The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.

Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
It's too bad that the consumption is so high on a newer engine. There is probably something wrong with the valve-stem oil seals. It might be a manufacturing defect. Those things are very fragile and tricky to install. I did it successfully on mine in the second attempt, after the initial attempt, in which I had messed it up and damaged them during installation.

The main idea behind Amsoil is that you save money later by extended OCIs, despite the ridiculous initial cost of the oil change. It kind of defeats its purpose when you have to add an additional three quarts of Amsoil during the OCI. For oil burners, it might be best to do short OCIs with conventional oil. You not only save money but conventional oil burns better than synthetic and will be better tolerated by your engine and yourself (less unpleasant odor of the oil smoke). For that reason, engines that are naturally oil burners, such as rotary engines, don't recommend synthetic.

Have you ever tried removing each spark plug and taking a look at it when the engine is cold? If some of them are wet with oil, you know that it's the valve-stem oil seals, not the rings/linings.


But it didn't start going to through oil until HE started driving and beating on it like a red-headed step child.

I'm pretty sure those things are related.

 

[Artem]

Explain to me how conventional and shorter intervals would be better? I'm still dumping conventional after 4-5k with a high TBN due to the top offs.

This car racks up miles quickly and I don't want to be under the car every month or two.

I believe the engine is burning oil due to very abusive (drive it like I stole it) driving on a daily basis. I'm surprised its not burning more oil.

If I put "fun time" aside and just drive it slooooowly, it will burn a quart every 10k. That $14 in makeup oil is worth the fun of driving in a spirited manner where ever I go.