Amsoil/ASLQT 5W30, 9683 Mi 2007 Toyota FJ 4.0L V6

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Oct 14, 2009
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Canada
Amsoil 5W30 Full Synthetic oil
49,713 miles on vehicle
30-minute drives on-road only most highway
typical average monthly use 2,280 miles
3-months on oil
9,683 miles on oil
Amsoil EA057 Filter
OEM Air Filter
No top-offs
Oil changed at time of sample
Premium Unleaded Fuel only.
Will discontinue extended oil changes and revert to 5,000 mile interval and standard mineral based or blended oils.


FJ01.jpg

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Why would you go over 5k while the vehicle is still under warranty? the wear numbers aren't bad. I would stick with ASL. Why do you have that much water in the engine? The calcuim is kind low for Amsoil ASL 5w30.
 
You have water and high Na. Native sodium in ASL is less than 10ppm. My guess is some kind of coolant entry into the oil OR sampling technique. Of course I can't judge the history of this lab.

I agree with dropping back to 5K with a conventional oil until you sort it out. Do a 3-5K OCI, and save/send a virgin sample and a UOA.
 
Same here - just sent a sample off this afternoon...

What's with the Ca amount in this sample - seems awfully low?
 
As part of a test a year ago I wanted to validate results of samples from the company we use at work. I sent samples to several companies including Toromont and compared results. I have no particular issue with Toromont they are good for a run of the mill $14 sample however I am extremely confident in Schroder’s work. I don’t make this comment lightly I put a lot of work into determining accuracy of various oil testing labs. The company I work for have enough swing that I can talk direct to Head Engineers of various sampling labs and I can even get them to calibrate their equipment and work with me in the validation of their testing results. We even had a manual particle count commissioned to test the accuracy of the various methods of reading particles in hydraulic oil. The manual count cost thousands of dollars. When I want a definitive highly accurate result Schroeder is the one for me. Not slamming Toromont they are good. It’s just in this case I wanted (personal opinion and subjective) the best. The test I posted here cost nearly as much as the oil in the engine.

Thank you for your suggestion Overk1LL
 
That wear does not look bad for almost 10,000 miles use and about 2 1/2 to 3 times what a normal person would run their oil.

1. What is up with the water content?

2. They don't have Universal Averages?
 
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Pablo, good eye and thank you for your help and suggestion. I don’t get it either consequences of looking I guess (first time I ever sampled a car I own). What are the chances that I win the lottery and the SLLC Toyota antifreeze doesn’t contain any sodium’s? I know probably not likely. I hope it isn’t a coolant leak and just dirt. I am just going to drop back to 5k changes and maybe stop looking at samples. Ignorance is bliss, time for me to get stupid and relax.
 
Billy, it was a calculated risk based on research and a bit of chance. I figured that the oil could handle less than half of its rated life of 24,000 miles (and strictly speaking it did). I also vowed to sample and monitor which I did. I also figured that if a failure did occur that the dealer would either honour the warranty or not and if they were going to be sticklers on oil then I probably wasn’t going to win the fight with them anyway.

No idea where the water came from I was hoping it was just condensation and that dropping back to 5k changes would cure it. I didn’t want to but maybe I will sample again at 5k.
 
You've got some things to investigate. I don't see the 10k as unwise given the short length of service. In fact up to one year I'd say that you were fine with that mileage.

Something is "unright".
 
First I think they mixed up your sample. Their should not be any silver in this engine. On top of that boron and sodium are not contaimanets on most modern passenger car motor oils! The silicone was crazy high for a vechile with this many miles on it but with such a short oil change interval. The silicone is what is casueing high wear numbers so if you have some lame garbage air filter like a K&N or anything like it pitch it in the trash and go back to paper. If you have not checked your paper filter in a longtime now would be a good time as well ans all hose's.

The combo of iron tin and cromium is a dead give away of cylinder head valve train wear which is almost always from dirt. So your problem hasnothing to do with the oil! Why you would want to run dino I do not know but the this UOA is not a reason too. You need to look else ware! Now ifyou just want to spend less on oil per oil change I can see useing dino! Also Titanium shouldnot be in this engine unless it is in the valve stems in trace amounts and if theiris enough to show up in the oil you are in trouble!Toyota use's Titanium rods inthe lexus but the outer casting of the rods would not be a wear item.
 
Right. Just run a 5k oci. Save money by not doing more testing and going to an M1 oil filter,it appears to be as good for 1/2 the price. If you liked the Amsoil,just keep using it. I prefer synthetics regardless of oci.
 
With oddball conditions, once discovered, the last thing he wants to do is not conduct further testing. The risks way out weigh the avoided costs.
 
I agree I am committed to sampling now until I figure what is going on.

I am hoping that I contaminated the sample or that the lab mixed up the sample. I changed the oil the day after a heavy rain on a day that was overcast and calling for more rain. I am very careful in how I handle samples but I was outside in the driveway rushing because we had to go out. This is one time that I actually hope that I screwed up.

I will resample in 5k.
 
Consider getting a sample pump. They're about $25+/-, but with some (here, anyway) $2.95/25ft of THD 1/4 poly tubing, you have yourself a convenient and tidy way to sample.

I too suspect contamination. Everything else is just too normal.
 
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