Amsoil ALM 5w20 - 10,161 miles - 07 Honda Civic EX
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The low flash point really gives it away IMO. My UOA's come back similarly, with the Honda 2.4L. What fuel are you using? I would run a bottle of Redline FS cleaner and re-sample.
I'm not sure what causes certain Honda engines to have fuel dilution issues. All of my UOA's in that car came back with low flash point and slightly low viscosity.
I'm not sure what causes certain Honda engines to have fuel dilution issues. All of my UOA's in that car came back with low flash point and slightly low viscosity.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I think as someone already mentioned, the low oil capacity is a partial cause. Just causes the oil to be worked that much harder.
My Jeep with a 4.0L engine has a 6QT, the old Suburban with a 5.7L V8 was 5QT, my diesel pickup is 12QT.
Clearly is the engineers wanted the engine to last longer, they would add a larger sump.
And more oil will take longer to heat up to operating temp, thus delaying activation of the AW additives, resulting in more wear. Everything is a tradeoff.
3.9qt is plenty for a 1.8l N/A engine, especially in a light, aerodynamic body like the Civic. The engine doesn't work that hard. These engines go 12,000 miles (20k Km) in Europe on good quality synthetic.
Divide sump capacity by engine displacement. The R18 in the Civic holds more oil than your 5.7l Suburban, relatively speaking.
I think as someone already mentioned, the low oil capacity is a partial cause. Just causes the oil to be worked that much harder.
My Jeep with a 4.0L engine has a 6QT, the old Suburban with a 5.7L V8 was 5QT, my diesel pickup is 12QT.
Clearly is the engineers wanted the engine to last longer, they would add a larger sump.
And more oil will take longer to heat up to operating temp, thus delaying activation of the AW additives, resulting in more wear. Everything is a tradeoff.
3.9qt is plenty for a 1.8l N/A engine, especially in a light, aerodynamic body like the Civic. The engine doesn't work that hard. These engines go 12,000 miles (20k Km) in Europe on good quality synthetic.
Divide sump capacity by engine displacement. The R18 in the Civic holds more oil than your 5.7l Suburban, relatively speaking.
Originally Posted By: gpshumway
3.9qt is plenty for a 1.8l N/A engine, especially in a light, aerodynamic body like the Civic. The engine doesn't work that hard. These engines go 12,000 miles (20k Km) in Europe on good quality synthetic.
Divide sump capacity by engine displacement. The R18 in the Civic holds more oil than your 5.7l Suburban, relatively speaking.
That's a good comparison taking into account the displacement size. It makes sense.
I have no doubt in my mind that the oil can get to 12k, i was just honestly hoping and expecting for MORE out of such a boutique oil. I was hoping to run the MM 2x resetting it at 15% when the annoying maintenance wrench first comes on. That would equal to roughly 14-15k miles total, depending on driving conditions.
I figured it wouldn't be a problem for the good oil and higher quality oil filter.
I guess i should just suck it up and run the oil longer as per the UOA and reach the limit.
3.9qt is plenty for a 1.8l N/A engine, especially in a light, aerodynamic body like the Civic. The engine doesn't work that hard. These engines go 12,000 miles (20k Km) in Europe on good quality synthetic.
Divide sump capacity by engine displacement. The R18 in the Civic holds more oil than your 5.7l Suburban, relatively speaking.
That's a good comparison taking into account the displacement size. It makes sense.
I have no doubt in my mind that the oil can get to 12k, i was just honestly hoping and expecting for MORE out of such a boutique oil. I was hoping to run the MM 2x resetting it at 15% when the annoying maintenance wrench first comes on. That would equal to roughly 14-15k miles total, depending on driving conditions.
I figured it wouldn't be a problem for the good oil and higher quality oil filter.
I guess i should just suck it up and run the oil longer as per the UOA and reach the limit.
Originally Posted By: buster
The low flash point really gives it away IMO. My UOA's come back similarly, with the Honda 2.4L. What fuel are you using? I would run a bottle of Redline FS cleaner and re-sample.
I'm not sure what causes certain Honda engines to have fuel dilution issues. All of my UOA's in that car came back with low flash point and slightly low viscosity.
I use regular 87 Octane from various name brand gas stations, usually "Gate" gas station as it's right by the house and is always cheaper then anything else. I'm not sure if it's top tier or not as i don't know where they get their gas but the gas stations are always huge and super clean, which is important to me.
I usually run either Redline or Amsoil Pi through the system at small maintenance doses of 1/4 bottle every few thousand miles.
I don't know what's causing the low flashpoint. I've always had
This current sample is the lowest i've seen it.
Originally Posted By: buster
I don't plan on running this Toyota 0w20 further than 5k until I get a sample back. It's already thin enough. LOL.
You could definitely run it longer. Remember my "recycled oil experiment"? My neighbors 03 Accord 2.4L did just fine with 10k OCIs on my USED oil. The car is still going strong today @ over 230,000 miles.
The low flash point really gives it away IMO. My UOA's come back similarly, with the Honda 2.4L. What fuel are you using? I would run a bottle of Redline FS cleaner and re-sample.
I'm not sure what causes certain Honda engines to have fuel dilution issues. All of my UOA's in that car came back with low flash point and slightly low viscosity.
I use regular 87 Octane from various name brand gas stations, usually "Gate" gas station as it's right by the house and is always cheaper then anything else. I'm not sure if it's top tier or not as i don't know where they get their gas but the gas stations are always huge and super clean, which is important to me.
I usually run either Redline or Amsoil Pi through the system at small maintenance doses of 1/4 bottle every few thousand miles.
I don't know what's causing the low flashpoint. I've always had
This current sample is the lowest i've seen it.
Originally Posted By: buster
I don't plan on running this Toyota 0w20 further than 5k until I get a sample back. It's already thin enough. LOL.
You could definitely run it longer. Remember my "recycled oil experiment"? My neighbors 03 Accord 2.4L did just fine with 10k OCIs on my USED oil. The car is still going strong today @ over 230,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: gpshumway
And more oil will take longer to heat up to operating temp, thus delaying activation of the AW additives, resulting in more wear. Everything is a tradeoff.
You could say that a larger oil capacity would take longer to reach operating temperature, and have lower flow for longer. But this isn't a valid argument. There are low-temperature AW additives.
And more oil will take longer to heat up to operating temp, thus delaying activation of the AW additives, resulting in more wear. Everything is a tradeoff.
You could say that a larger oil capacity would take longer to reach operating temperature, and have lower flow for longer. But this isn't a valid argument. There are low-temperature AW additives.
Originally Posted By: Artem
That's a good comparison taking into account the displacement size. It makes sense.
I have no doubt in my mind that the oil can get to 12k, i was just honestly hoping and expecting for MORE out of such a boutique oil. I was hoping to run the MM 2x resetting it at 15% when the annoying maintenance wrench first comes on. That would equal to roughly 14-15k miles total, depending on driving conditions.
I figured it wouldn't be a problem for the good oil and higher quality oil filter.
I guess i should just suck it up and run the oil longer as per the UOA and reach the limit.
I wouldn't take the Euro OCI as gospel in the US, Europe has lower sulfur in their fuel. Sulfur causes acidic byproducts which reduce TBN. My point was simply that the sump size is entirely appropriate for the engine size and fully capable of long OCIs.
That's a good comparison taking into account the displacement size. It makes sense.
I have no doubt in my mind that the oil can get to 12k, i was just honestly hoping and expecting for MORE out of such a boutique oil. I was hoping to run the MM 2x resetting it at 15% when the annoying maintenance wrench first comes on. That would equal to roughly 14-15k miles total, depending on driving conditions.
I figured it wouldn't be a problem for the good oil and higher quality oil filter.
I guess i should just suck it up and run the oil longer as per the UOA and reach the limit.
I wouldn't take the Euro OCI as gospel in the US, Europe has lower sulfur in their fuel. Sulfur causes acidic byproducts which reduce TBN. My point was simply that the sump size is entirely appropriate for the engine size and fully capable of long OCIs.
Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
You could say that a larger oil capacity would take longer to reach operating temperature, and have lower flow for longer. But this isn't a valid argument. There are low-temperature AW additives.
I'm not sure what you're saying.
If you have info on oils with AW additives which work at ambient temperatures please share! Most AW additives I'm aware of don't reach full effectiveness until the oil reaches ~150*F.
Given a fixed rate of heat input it will take longer to raise the temperature of a larger volume of oil, and therefore a larger sump will take longer to reach operating temperature. I'm not sure where you're going with the flow rate statement. I'm simply commenting on the amount of time the engine is running before the oil reaches operating temperature.
You could say that a larger oil capacity would take longer to reach operating temperature, and have lower flow for longer. But this isn't a valid argument. There are low-temperature AW additives.
I'm not sure what you're saying.
If you have info on oils with AW additives which work at ambient temperatures please share! Most AW additives I'm aware of don't reach full effectiveness until the oil reaches ~150*F.
Given a fixed rate of heat input it will take longer to raise the temperature of a larger volume of oil, and therefore a larger sump will take longer to reach operating temperature. I'm not sure where you're going with the flow rate statement. I'm simply commenting on the amount of time the engine is running before the oil reaches operating temperature.
Update... Well i went ahead and changed the oil today. I put on an additional 700 miles on the fill and decided that it was enough for me. I have several long distance trips coming up and needed fresh oil in the block.
Here are some pics of my magnetic drain plug collecting quite a bit of metallic bits. I was almost shocked at the amount of stuff stuck on it.
And also some pictures of inside the filler hole. The block looks spotless and could easily pass for an engine right outta the assembly line. I mean not a single hint of varnish as far as the eye could see.
Refilled with more ALM. We'll see how it goes...
Here are some pics of my magnetic drain plug collecting quite a bit of metallic bits. I was almost shocked at the amount of stuff stuck on it.
And also some pictures of inside the filler hole. The block looks spotless and could easily pass for an engine right outta the assembly line. I mean not a single hint of varnish as far as the eye could see.
Refilled with more ALM. We'll see how it goes...
I'm not too satisfied with "ONLY" 10k OCIs on one of Amsoil's best oils. I'd gladly go longer if the oil would've handled it's duties with more oil life to spare.
For now, i guess 10k will have to suffice. We'll see how the next report will look. Shouldn't be too long, i have a 6,000 mile round trip to California and back to Florida coming up in July...
For now, i guess 10k will have to suffice. We'll see how the next report will look. Shouldn't be too long, i have a 6,000 mile round trip to California and back to Florida coming up in July...
Originally Posted By: Artem
I'm not too satisfied with "ONLY" 10k OCIs on one of Amsoil's best oils. I'd gladly go longer if the oil would've handled it's duties with more oil life to spare.
For now, i guess 10k will have to suffice. We'll see how the next report will look. Shouldn't be too long, i have a 6,000 mile round trip to California and back to Florida coming up in July...
I'm not too satisfied with "ONLY" 10k OCIs on one of Amsoil's best oils. I'd gladly go longer if the oil would've handled it's duties with more oil life to spare.
For now, i guess 10k will have to suffice. We'll see how the next report will look. Shouldn't be too long, i have a 6,000 mile round trip to California and back to Florida coming up in July...
You should have 1 quart Amsoil in your car for the trip to California, if you need some top-off it's better to use the same oil.
I've been topping off with just a splash of oil every 10k OCI. What makes you think that I'll need a quart of "just in case" oil in the truck?
I think the engine will still be full of oil after the trip with just a cup's worth of makeup oil needed to bring the oil level up to COMPLETELY FULL again. I'm not worried about it but thank you for the recommendation though.
I think the engine will still be full of oil after the trip with just a cup's worth of makeup oil needed to bring the oil level up to COMPLETELY FULL again. I'm not worried about it but thank you for the recommendation though.
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