Looking for an expensive replacement convertor. The "y" pipe rusted away on the original and the noise is bothering me. I found these two on eBay. Assuming they are the same cost, which would you go with? The first picture looks like it uses a seperate y section, where the first looks like the pipe is just spliced in. The negative I see on the first one is that it comes and a RH and LH side along with the rear pipe, which is fine I guess, but to me less connections are better than more. Opinions?
AM Replacement Catalytic Convertor options
- Thread starter Johnny248
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Year? Make? Model? Engine?
It's a '09 Jeep Liberty. 50k on it which is a bummer that I need to replace this.
Total bummer - I can’t believe it rusted out that quickly. I don’t know your chassis, but my hope is that someone familiar will be able to tell you if the one piece (which would by me choice as well) will be easy to fit, or a complete pain because of chassis obstructions.
The 2-piece makes it cheaper to ship, since it ships in a smaller box 
The FVP brand on Rock Auto has a 5-year/50k warranty on catalytic performance, which is rare for a non-CARB converter (federal cats usually only have a 2-year/25k warranty on catalytic performance, 5 years/50k on structural integrity).
Also, check the condition of the rest of your exhaust. If you need it, there's a Dynomax kit for not a lot of money
The FVP brand on Rock Auto has a 5-year/50k warranty on catalytic performance, which is rare for a non-CARB converter (federal cats usually only have a 2-year/25k warranty on catalytic performance, 5 years/50k on structural integrity).
Also, check the condition of the rest of your exhaust. If you need it, there's a Dynomax kit for not a lot of money
The vehicle was parked outside until I got it. It's on it's third muffler also. The OEM rotted out (pretty common on these) and the first Walker Ultraflow SS rotted out also lol The convertor rusted through where the y comes together, and also in another spot where one of the hangers is welded. If I was purchasing a vehicle to own for a long time, and there was a SS option available, I think that I'd gladly pay the extra for it.
Why do I not see a two piece system?
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I have heard nothing but horror stories on ebay cats. They likely won't fit and will throw P0420 efficiency codes if they do.
If your not getting codes, I would try to find a shop that will make or weld in the Y-pipe - and keep the existing cats. The OEM cat will last much longer for you than the ebay stuff even if you can get it to work.
If you don't want to do that - spend the $500 and get either a AP Eastern or Walker setup from Rock Auto.
If your not getting codes, I would try to find a shop that will make or weld in the Y-pipe - and keep the existing cats. The OEM cat will last much longer for you than the ebay stuff even if you can get it to work.
If you don't want to do that - spend the $500 and get either a AP Eastern or Walker setup from Rock Auto.
Top photo, The take off pipe 1/3 way down. I think it's a 3-piece though as the section leading down from the exhaust headers is a separate piece as well.
Magnaflow makes a stainless cat, but it's almost $900
Also, this Gibson exhaust claims to be 409 stainless
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Sorry, I meant the two banks are separate pieces. The rear section is the third.
When it comes to catalytic converters, you typically get what you pay for. The cheap one really cheap out on the substrates and PGM loading. So I would expect the ECU might get and throw a check engine light since its not performing as they should.
The top picture option looks to have better manufacturing quality. The welds don't randomly stop and start and the bending of the pipe appears to be better. The clamp joints behind the converter look pretty cheap and will probably leak, so you have a point there on less joints the better. The cones on the converters overall look pretty cheap and don't appear to have good exhaust gas flow distribution. The converters on both of them appear to be a hard stuffed, so they are probably using a substrate that wouldn't meet OEM requirements. Another concern with hard stuffing is that the brick might slip if you run the engine really hard and get the converter extremely hot. I would also guess the top picture has better flow through the "y" pipe section. Sorry for the information overload, this use to be my area of work.
If I had to chose bettween these two I would probably go with the top option.
The top picture option looks to have better manufacturing quality. The welds don't randomly stop and start and the bending of the pipe appears to be better. The clamp joints behind the converter look pretty cheap and will probably leak, so you have a point there on less joints the better. The cones on the converters overall look pretty cheap and don't appear to have good exhaust gas flow distribution. The converters on both of them appear to be a hard stuffed, so they are probably using a substrate that wouldn't meet OEM requirements. Another concern with hard stuffing is that the brick might slip if you run the engine really hard and get the converter extremely hot. I would also guess the top picture has better flow through the "y" pipe section. Sorry for the information overload, this use to be my area of work.
If I had to chose bettween these two I would probably go with the top option.
I am going to see if I can have it welded "repaired". I'd rather keep the OEM stuff if at all possible. It seems that any aftermarket exhaust parts are pretty much junk in the Midwest. For instance, Walker makes there SS mufflers with a lifetime warranty, but that doesn't really matter when after a year or so the rest of the exhaust they sell rusts and falls apart. I've always know that there is a difference in the catalyst, but I've never know how they actually differ. I know that there is basically zero scrap value on AM convertors, when the OEM pay out pretty decently.
This-- if you're doing the job on ramps and not a full lift you might run into a situation where you wish you had shorter sections of pipe. I actually kind of like the multi-part part because I could fit up everything and slowly snug everything down for a good fit, finishing with the exhaust clamps.
Do you care about a CEL? Michigan doesn't do any smog AFAIK and it being a 15 year old jeep, you might be used to one, LOL.
I have a hoist. I guess I am one of those people who doesn't like to have a CEL on. I'd rather have everything working. Michigan has about the most lax vehicle requirements ever. Technically hour laws say that rolling on tires @ 2/23" is fine also.
Have you explored any shop repair options? Like you say, the more of the factory exhaust you can preserve, the better. South main auto just did a video of an exhaust repair on an older 4.0l Cherokee. Eric was half the cost of the "local muffler shop".
You must be referring to the welded TEE fitting. Both systems appear to be welded into a single piece though. Anyway, I think the T fitting would be the one to use, since you can't tell how far the left section protrudes into the right half. I'd say a possible minor obstruction could occur there.
The two sections I'm talking about have no weld marks. The bottom leg of the "T" clearly shows one pipe inserted into the other. The section on the right hand side of the "T" also shows the same joint. You can see it via the change in shade of the pipe along with the molded at the end which prevents the pipe from travelling to far into the other. I imagine the pieces are held together with exhaust putty and a band.
Oh THAT! I see it now. To me it looks more like a ghost image of where you can cut your old existing pipe and install a clamp, or is the second piece you refer to.
The one piece replacement does not seem to have a flare like the two piece one does. That likely means it's designed to be welded onto the existing (remainig) tailpipe section.
Oh ya. I never thought about a ghost image. Just as plausible I guess.
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