Aluminum control arms and taper studs?

[D60]

I need to replace struts in a KL Cherokee. I watched a (painful) Haynes video and they use a puller to remove the TRE and ball joint (the whole setup seems harder than it needs to be just to swap struts)

I do have the pullers but the question is is it ok to tap aluminum knuckles and control arms some to try to unseat tapers?

On steel I typically wail away with reckless abandon. I would NOT do this but I do have a brass BFH that would seemingly be ok for aluminum?

 

[The Critic]

Ball Joint Separator Kit - Mueller-Kueps LP

Designed to be used with an Impact tool Fast and safe removal of suspension and steering systems ball joints. Very rugged, flat design of Ball Joint Separator with 3 interchangeable forks, that are attached to the center screw to allow continuous adjustment within the jaw capacity range...

mueller-kueps.com

 

[Kestas]

I don't have a practical answer, but I can say that aluminum has a higher tendency to gall (stick) to steel. It may give you a fight.

I butter all my tapers with antiseize during installation to preclude the problem at next go around.

 

[Trav]

Loosen the TRE nut until the nut is a few threads above the tie tod threads then a sharp whack with a BFH, the ball joint is not bad, remove the nut, use a long pry bar (I use an old torsion bar) and whack the control arm with a BF brass hammer or shot filled dead blow while prying down on it.
Watch out for the ABS sensor bolt, soak it good then hit the bolt on top with a round punch a few times before trying to remove it, you may have to do it a few times before it moves. Replace the ABS sensor bolt with a high grade bolt with never seize and just snug it down.