Alternator Replacement Tips?

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May be we have somebody here who has already replaced the alternator on the 2nd Generation Odyssey and can offer some tips.

The original alternator is getting hot and I have purchased a rebuilt Denso from ebay. I ordered Honda belt from web. I have discovered a youtube video. He did this on the side of the road and did it from the top. I don't see him releasing the tension on the belt before taking off the alternator. Unfortunately, some of the keys steps seems to have been edited out. I have read and there has not been a consensus on the easiest way to do it. I am hoping that removing the power steering reservoir should be enough to get the access, otherwise, I will to remove the coolant tank. I need to be careful about re-tightening the bottom bolt to avoid cracking the bracket. Anything else to look for?

On the scale 1 (adding washer fluid) - 10 (replacing timing belt) where does this thing rank? If it is over 5, I am taking it to my mechanic.

A quick look at the labor guide shows following (does that sound high to you?)
Code:


Alternator Assembly, Replace (b)

Labor Times

Comments Factory Regular Severe

0.0 2.2 2.4

Includes

Includes: Pulley transfer.




The picture of the US rebuilt alternator that is going in. I think it looks good from the numbers.
Oselswt.jpg

BAS9wGt.jpg
 
I have no idea, but if it is only 2.2 hours including pulling the pulley off the old one and pressing it onto the new one, I would say 4 or 5 on your scale of 1 to 10.
 
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Make sure the battery is OK . I've seen bad batteries overheat alternators and take them out a lot .

+1 also check connections and wires for corrosion and if they are loose
 
Originally Posted By: outdoorsman310
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
Make sure the battery is OK . I've seen bad batteries overheat alternators and take them out a lot .

+1 also check connections and wires for corrosion and if they are loose


Yes , this too along with battery condition . If the alternator is getting too much resistance charging , it will cause the alternator to overheat .
 
Battery is reasonably new. I think it is only couple of years old. There are no electrical issues. The alternator has 196K and 14 years on it. The charging voltage is fine although I have not checked for voltage drop test. Connections looks ok but if I can objectively test them either when the car is off or with the load on the alternator, I would do that.

I am thinking that most alternators last about 200K and I am thinking the bearing has started making the noise and getting hot. It is also shedding lots of rust dust around and the belt has become brown.

Realistically speaking, what is the maximum that an alternator can last?
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Battery is reasonably new. I think it is only couple of years old. There are no electrical issues. The alternator has 196K and 14 years on it. The charging voltage is fine although I have not checked for voltage drop test. Connections looks ok but if I can objectively test them either when the car is off or with the load on the alternator, I would do that.

I am thinking that most alternators last about 200K and I am thinking the bearing has started making the noise and getting hot. It is also shedding lots of rust dust around and the belt has become brown.

Realistically speaking, what is the maximum that an alternator can last?


No time table for alternators , many factors effect how long they can last .

I've seen 2 year old batteries with a bad cell and that's all is needed to cook an alternator .
 
Yah, sounds like it may have a crunchy bearing. N East weather and salty roads is a tough environment. Slip the belt and spin the pulley. If it wiggles up and down thats not good either.
The alternator on Marina's DD is original. It works fine with 150 K miles and 25 yrs. It was a pain in the posterior to take out.Every bolt was frozen. I was able to take the mount off the block and use a Dremel to cut the bolt out.
 
The shop manual (page 4-27) says disconnect the battery, remove the belt, disconnect the alternator 4P connector, remove the mounting bolt and bracket mounting bolt, remove the harness clamp from the bracket. Install in reverse order.
 
This is how the belt looks like and that is why my mechanic and another friend both think that the bearing is on the way out.

Rv1VtLg.jpg

NK0hTWV.jpg
 
I already ordered the tensioner pulley and is on the way. Can you tell me how you can see that it is not rotating freely from the picture?
 
Anytime you see a hint of rust around a bearing it is on the way out. All the grease has gone and it's rusting the actual bearings. Good way to tell actually because the bearing can feel like it's OK.
 
When I put the stethoscope on the tensioner and on the alternator, both were loud. Given that the tensoiner seemed to be rock steady to eye and the OEM tensioner is priced almost as much as the rebuilt alternator, I decided to order the cheaply priced OEM pulley and left handed bolt.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I already ordered the tensioner pulley and is on the way. Can you tell me how you can see that it is not rotating freely from the picture?

The surface the belt rides on is heavily worn, usually if friction increases, it wipes the paint off the tensioner and then it eventually fails completely.

I always recommend replacing the entire tensioner.
 
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