Alternator problem?

[Barkleymut]

I just put a remaned alternator on the van in my sig. The battery light on the dashboard is staying on and the power windows are going up/down VERY slow. Did I do something wrong? This is the first time I have ever replaced and alternator and other than it being a huge pain to get the old one off it really seemed simple.

Thanks,

 

[Barkleymut]

btw I got the remaned alternator from Advance

 

[Quest]

obtain some voltage reading first.

Q.

 

[Barkleymut]

thats my plan, just wondering if there was some little step that I missed.

 

[DB_Cooper]

As always..clean the battery posts..clean the ground cable from the battery on the chassis..in that engine/transmissions are rubber mounted..there is a ground cable somewhere between the engine and chassis too..find it and clean the connections on both ends...if any of the ground cables look burned or corroded..go to NAPA and replace them.

 

[eljefino]

The computer/ body control module controls the alt. Those modules are flaky.

 

[Warstud]

Before replacing did you have them test the alternator and the battery?

 

[Wolf359]

Not only that, but there are horror stories out there of alternators being bad straight from the store. Sometimes people have the store test the new one to make sure it works.

 

[NHGUY]

The computer controls the field circuit voltage.Maybe feed that circuit (with it disconnected at the harness) 12volts and see if the charge rate rises...?? Maybe you didnt need an alternator afterall...but a module instead (Chrysler only and needs to be flash programmed).

 

[Kuato]

Check the connections on the alternator, a bad ground or loose connection can reduce voltage.

and...



Originally Posted By: Wolf359
Not only that, but there are horror stories out there of alternators being bad straight from the store. Sometimes people have the store test the new one to make sure it works.


This. I've had a bad remanned alternator before.

 

[Rand]

you have a number of problems, inadequate troubleshooting basically. Parts throwing can be more complicated than doing adequate diagnostics (unless you left out info)

 

[zzyzzx]

Originally Posted By: Barkleymut
btw I got the remaned alternator from Advance


Yes, you did something wrong!

 

[Chris142]

Bad regulator in the computer is a common problem on the jeep boards I frequent. I'm sure the van is similar as others mentioned.

 

[wrcsixeight]

Another issue with putting on a reman or even new alternator, it that the battery should be fully charged prior to restarting the vehicle. recharging the battery fully via a grid powered charger cannot be stressed enough, especially with the quality of today's remans.

A depleted battery will ask the alternator to prodcee maximum current, and a freshly reman'd alternator cannot handle this before it is broken in properly(if ever).

I had this issue with a reman alternator hundred of miles into its life when I asked it to recharge 3 large very depleted batteries. It almost stranded me deep in Baja, but fully recharging all three batteries, and driving another 50 miles, and all of a sudden it was charging again.

I figured the unbroken in brushes glazed over or popped off the commutator and got stuck in their holders when asked to produce 90+ amps when not broken in.

Most remans have a little CYA note saying to fully charge the battery first, and it is commonly ignored at the peril of the installer.

It is also entirely possible that your previous alternator was fine and the problem lies and remains elsewhere.

 

[Barkleymut]

It was the alternator, it started making a bad noise like a bearing failure about a week ago. I searched utube and a couple of videos had the EXACT same noise. I replaced the alternator this AM and the battery light came on. Turns out I did not get the connector on there well enough. Took it up to Advance and they threw their battery computer on it and once we played with the connector a little it went exactly to the voltage it should have been at. Drove it 300 miles today and it worked fine. Yay

 

[bmwjohn]

Hello:
currently down to one working vehicle - 1994 dakota v6 at ac 210k, and lots to do elsewhere. large 3 yr old battery was dead - this is last week of warranty - I am going to AAP to have it checked tomorrow or weds. gauge has read 17v steady several years,p.o. friend had multi radios installed and says very unlikely would be a real 17v. ANYWAY, thinking 90 amp alt might be the original - will have to figure how to read that size - and it looks like an expensive module includes the volt regulator. Sounds like a typical Chrysler design flaw. NOW, thinking of alt - bigger one fit or needed? 90 amp seems big to me. Any work around on module replacement w/o spending $150+? thoughts? seems like similar problem to original poster.

 

[eljefino]

90 amp is fine.

Supposedly you can rig up an external regulator (like from a dodge dart) but the computer will throw all sorts of codes complaining.

 

[tnt31]

The toughone reman 90 amp at AAP is $106 and the $120 amp is $118. Order online with a 40 off 100 code (TRT41) to get for $66 or $78 plus tax. I know a lot of people are really down on auto stores remans. I have had good luck with AAPs lifetime remans. I currently have three alternators in service with 2 to 3 years on each and a starter with about 1.5 years with no problems. I figure if it is one which is easy to R & R then it is worth taking the chance with these remans since they have the lifetime warranty. When you order online it will add the core charge but if you take the core in when you pick it up they will remove that charge when you pick up the new part. Do not get the Driveworks Remans. They just have a one year warranty and do not save enough $$$ in my opinion to take a chance on them.

 

[Donald]

I would head to a rebuild shop with the broken one.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: wrcsixeight
Another issue with putting on a reman or even new alternator, it that the battery should be fully charged prior to restarting the vehicle. recharging the battery fully via a grid powered charger cannot be stressed enough, especially with the quality of today's remans.

A depleted battery will ask the alternator to prodcee maximum current, and a freshly reman'd alternator cannot handle this before it is broken in properly(if ever).

I had this issue with a reman alternator hundred of miles into its life when I asked it to recharge 3 large very depleted batteries. It almost stranded me deep in Baja, but fully recharging all three batteries, and driving another 50 miles, and all of a sudden it was charging again.

I figured the unbroken in brushes glazed over or popped off the commutator and got stuck in their holders when asked to produce 90+ amps when not broken in.

Most remans have a little CYA note saying to fully charge the battery first, and it is commonly ignored at the peril of the installer.

It is also entirely possible that your previous alternator was fine and the problem lies and remains elsewhere.


I am curious why you say a freshly reman alternator cannot handle recharging a battery. I agree the battery should always be charged with an AC charger first. But I do not see a difference in charging capability between a broken in alternator and a freshly reman one?